Penetrating oils

From my race engine (cars) building days PB Blaster works wonders, I doubt you can get it in Yurp, but for anyone in North America, give it a try.

Thanks for all your advice everyone. There is lots to be getting on with here and plenty of new things to try.

Cheers!

With something small like that a quick blast with an air nozzle should remove all of it… (walnut).
If the parts are fairly stout a fine glass bead leaves a nice finish.

Thanks for the replies chaps, there is no corrosion that I am aware of…
The items in question are seat frames, so it shouldn’t matter about the shells getting in any crevices.
Regards, Alan

With something small like that a quick blast with an air nozzle should remove all of it… (walnut).
If the parts are fairly stout a fine glass bead leaves a nice finish.

TFC’s B25 has been walnut blasted at some point in the past, every time they ran it some more would come out of the seams etc.
Walnut won’t remove corrosion tho… great for (some) paint tho

& there is an issue with soda counteracting etch primer unless the metal surface is thoroughly wiped down after blasting. 🙂

Thanks for the replies chaps, there is no corrosion that I am aware of…
The items in question are seat frames, so it shouldn’t matter about the shells getting in any crevices.
Regards, Alan

You could try the Ardrox 2814 mentioned in the above post – that shouldnt do the damage that Nitromors would. Otherwise, I would heartily recommend soda blasting. This will take the paint off down to the base metal, and leave no damage at all. It isnt so good for removing corrosion, but you can use glass bead or walnut shell for that if you need to.
Bruce

TFC’s B25 has been walnut blasted at some point in the past, every time they ran it some more would come out of the seams etc.
Walnut won’t remove corrosion tho… great for (some) paint tho

& there is an issue with soda counteracting etch primer unless the metal surface is thoroughly wiped down after blasting. 🙂

Not quite the same thing but, what would anyone recommend for stripping paint from magnesium alloy, that didn’t harm the integretiy of the metal in anyway?
Might be worth a new thread, but I will try this first as we are in Chemistry mode!
Cheers, Alan.

Alan,

You could try the Ardrox 2814 mentioned in the above post – that shouldnt do the damage that Nitromors would. Otherwise, I would heartily recommend soda blasting. This will take the paint off down to the base metal, and leave no damage at all. It isnt so good for removing corrosion, but you can use glass bead or walnut shell for that if you need to.

Bruce

Why is that Bruce? I know someone who uses it all the time for flying projects.

Nitromors has two things going for it – its relatively cheap, and readily available. If however you read the data sheet, you will note that it states that the product is NOT suitable for use on Aircraft. I believe that extended use – i.e. leaving it on for a week to do its stuff, causes hydrogen embrittlement of the alloy.

If you want to get the paint off, you need a stripper specifically designed for aircraft use. Good old DASIC D23V works a treat, but is really nasty stuff. We have just started using a product called Ardrox 2814, which is bright pink. It takes a little longer but is environmentally friendly.

Another item thats useful for this is aerosol Dye Penetrant. That stuff will work it’s way in anywhere (otherwise it would just be *dye*, lol) & will loosen threads etc.

Silkroil & Aerokroil are both made by Kano Labs. 🙂
Kano are here:
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Hello

Here in Canada ,I work for Pratt & Whitney Canada ( jet engines as I’m sure most of you know).
We use a product here called Silkroil which ia unbelievable.
Many of our nuts and bolts become quite sie=zed thru heat shrink etc and this stuff has a 99% success rate.
In my sparetime I use it on vintage restorations ,same resut .
It penetrates anything ,I maen it.
Where to get it , I have no idea but the product mentioned in the previous reply Aerokroil, I’ll bet is the same product that we use .
I definitely recommend this product , you wont be sorry!

try using a compound called zx 54 lube spray best u can get

AeroKroil by Kano Laboratories is the dogs danglies.. 🙂

& for the bio crowd at rust removal: Rusteco

WD40 is absolute junk after usinmg AeroKroil

Why is that Bruce? I know someonw who uses it all the time for flying projects.

Nitromors is a VERY bad product to use on aircraft alloy – think again!

Bruce

Nitromors is a VERY bad product to use on aircraft alloy – think again!
Bruce

That was one of my suggestions to the disscusion and that was the answer I was given,along witha very large shake of the engineering head!:rolleyes:

A thought I had later,that I have since suggested, is blasting with walnut shells,I am sure I have read about this proceedure somewhere, with ref to aircraft restoration, anyone know of companies that do it and costs etc?

Alan.

Nitromors is a VERY bad product to use on aircraft alloy – think again!

Bruce

Alan – surely nitromors will do this without a problem. Then give it a good scrub and wash.

Not quite the same thing but, what would anyone recommend for stripping paint from magnesium alloy, that didn’t harm the integretiy of the metal in anyway?
Might be worth a new thread, but I will try this first as we are in Chemistry mode!
Cheers, Alan.

Not quite the same thing but, what would anyone recommend for stripping paint from magnesium alloy, that didn’t harm the integretiy of the metal in anyway?
Might be worth a new thread, but I will try this first as we are in Chemistry mode!
Cheers, Alan.

Brake fluid ?
you will find the Brake fluid reservoirs are made of cast alloys so I’m sure it will not harm ??

Coat the area in HP red sauce leave
for about a day then clean off, and spray with Plus Gas.

On a similar note….

Not quite the same thing but, what would anyone recommend for stripping paint from magnesium alloy, that didn’t harm the integretiy of the metal in anyway?
Might be worth a new thread, but I will try this first as we are in Chemistry mode!
Cheers, Alan.

For rust removal – as opposed to freeing off corroded fasteners – I’ve found the electrolytic process incredibly effective. Run ‘electrolytic rust removal’ into Google and see what comes up.

This is from a US site, and says it all:

http://www.instructables.com/id/E17UQMY28PEQ6T2A5Z?ALLSTEPS

William

Might be prudent to note this in case anyone is thinking of dipping potentially flight worthy structural components into an electrolytic process.

Hydrogen Embrittlement of Steel – A Cautionary Note

Atoms of hydrogen absorbed by steel are known to enter the lattice of iron atoms and prevent the layers from sliding past each other easily. This causes the steel to become more brittle and liable to crack. The absorption of hydrogen by steel is a familiar problem in industry which arises during steel refining, heat treatment, acid pickling or electro-plating. It can also happen as a result of simple corrosion. The standard remedy is to bake the objects in ovens to drive out the absorbed hydrogen (200°C for four hours would be a typical regime in industry). The simple passage of time is also known to cause loss of hydrogen from steel. Hydrogen embrittlement may occur to some extent during electrolytic de-rusting. Alternatively, baking the object in the oven for hour or so at about 150°C (300° F) should remove absorbed hydrogen. Note that this baking temperature is low enough to leave the temper of most steels unaffected. Since hydrogen embrittlement is reversible, it should not cause too much anxiety.

On behalf of the rest of the readers of this thread I would just like to say GGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOOAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!

Most interesting – my chemistry has improved, and I can get a lead on PlusGas. Thank you all!

Adrian