Restoration Assistance

Fouga23,

I have a big feeling your right, so will not varnish however someone did suggest cleaning with white spirit, leaving to dry thoroughly followed by putting a very thin coat of beeswax polish on top.

Jason

I Wouldn’t varnish it. Varnish can turn yellow and peel off. You’ll risk damaging the artifact.

Hello,

Well finally finished the tail plane skin and very happy with how its turned out :D. I tried using the dry wipe marker method which sadly did not work, nor did using a new permanent marker which also made matters worse 😡
Using the nail varnish remover first which took the majority off, I then used the surgical spirit to take the final traces of the marker finishing off with a complete wipe down of white spirit.
Now all I have to do is paint it with clear satin varnish.

To everybody who took the time and trouble to advise me…a big thank you gentlemen :eagerness::very_drunk:

Jason

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chaps can I suggest some science..

Like dissolves like – water does not dissolve oil as they are at opposite ends of the polarity spectrum.

Lighter fuel is an alkane – it will dissolve only non polar materials.

MEk is methyl ethyl ketone – it is a relatively polar molecule – it will dissolve polar compounds.

Acetone is also a ketone – but more readily available from the chemists as nail varnish remover.

The difference between acetone and MEK is CH2 – i.e. not very much in a chemical perspective.

Cellulose paint thinners is a mix of aromatic compounds and ethanol. – low to mid polarity.

Meths is is methylated alcohol – mid polarity.

If you sniff a marker pen and it smells of pear drops – it uses amyl acetate – an ester as solvent – moderately polar.

From a science experiment – working form polar to nonpolar would give you the best chance of dissolving the marker before the paint.

As meths and white spirit do not work – I would also try nail varnish remover – acetone as my next step.

If these do not work – the pen used may not have used the ester solvent system.

To remove permanent marker from white boards you scribble over it with the correct non-permanent marker and then wipe off quickly before it dries. Works on white boards but I’d try it on a scrap bit of ally before your skins.

Lighter fuel. I’ve just done it on a piece of aluminium. I walked out to the car park with you and commented on your acquisition.

John

I saw an interesting discussion online once whereby somebody had studied autographs under a microscope. Those signed with a permanent marker were actually scratched into the finish to some degree. Apparently the nibs are abrasive.

I’ve heard of people using another non-permanent marker to scribble over the original marks, which serves to move the ink about and make it easier to remove with another substance, be it acetone or whatever.

Hats off to whoever scrawled on the panel to begin with. :stupid:

Gentlemen,

I would like to thank everybody who has made some very good suggestions, will be trying out the more easier (and cheaper :highly_amused:) available items first, so will let you know if there is any progress.

Again thanks

Jason

Thirded: MEK is the only thing you need. Clears the sinuses too.

As said MEK, but we used to clean permanent marker off charts with cheap aftershave, so as ‘enry used to say, splash it all over….

ACF50 is amazing stuff!

Andy

I know this might sound silly, but try ACF50.

It has remove no end of dirt, grime and even carbon from piston crowns for me. It will also go a long way to corrosion proofing the bit you are working too.

Regards
Mark

I second the acetone

Or Car Paint thinners, I doubt IPA will touch it given failure with meths.

Brake cleaner

Acetone should work well for this

I would try Isopropyl Alcohol or one of the aerosol label removers.

You need some MEK