10D users

Top Chaps

Many thanks to all for your advice.

Basically you take a reference shot of a white surface (well stopped down and out of focus) with your camera, the programme identifies any dust spots on the sensor and from this makes a reference file for your sensor.

You then open your photograph in Spotkiller and it then uses this information to attempt to remove the marks from your images. It does batch processing so you simply load all the photos in a folder and leave it to run.

Saves an age with the clone tool in PhotoShop!

Thanks Damien and Gareth. How is that working? I have to open the photo in Spotkiller or so? Stupid question without doubt but I am a digital newcomer (after shooting slides since 1975) and I am always strugling with the computer.

Is there other “helpfull” software that you guys recomended?

BW Roger

http://www.applied-maths.com/paul/spotkiller.zip

hth

Gareth

10D Experts

Thanks for your help chaps.
Can I also ask you which exposure setting you find works best?

I have only recently changed from Minolta film cameras and it is like starting all over again!

Also, do you tend to use 100 ISO setting, as this should give the finest quality.

Finally, have you messed about with the white balance settings, or are you happy to go with the 10D settings.

So many questions !!!!!!

Damien, which software program is that? I was at Canon CPS to bring my “wounded” 10D and they said that the best results could be get with “firstphase” software. It can be downloaded for a 1 month try. You know that? BW Roger

Those “drying marks” are dirty spots on the CMOS sensor. The smaller F you use, the more you are going to see them. Best advise, don’t go “smaller” than F.8 , and learn to clean yous sensor which is a nerve taking, and time consuming thing. Sensor dust is one of the main disadvantages of DSLR’s. My 10D had “dust” within a few weeks (and it broke down after 300 shots and is now back with Canon). Good news is that the CMOS sensor, after severall cleaning sessions, is getting lesser and lesser “static” , so in a few months time your dust problem won’t be that big anymore. “Normal” photographers aren’t suffering from this problem that much, as it is especially in the blue’s and broken white/greys that you see these spots (but as aircraft “shooters” we are almost all the time working with a full blue or brokenwhite/grey sky.

As for RAW, I have always using RAW so far, and I will continue to do so. I just want to have the highest quality to work from. JPG fine is for most just as good, but I don’t take the risk. Only disadvantage is the time the camera needs to write the shots down, but with a buffer of 9 shots this is “workable).

BW Roger