Aircraft Main Wheel Restoration

I use SP Systems stuff these days. SP106 is very thin when mixed, and ideal for metal-metal like that. Add colloidal fibres (for strong bond) or microballons (as a lightweight and easily abraded filler) to thicken for various purposes.

I don’t know JB Weld, but Araldite 24 hour is ok, although I’ve never mixed it with fillers or rubbed it down.

Have been looking at Araldite and JBWeld and never new there were so many variations. Any recommendations for either product ?

i have a distinct aversion to sticky buns, so thanks for pointing that out!

And I’ll stick to what I know about in future. Matching wheel paint was the bane of my life when selling my last decent car a couple of years ago.

Lastly, I have no idea whether the wheels were originally painted. Anodising or lacquer would protect the metal However, after filling the corroded bits, paint is the only option so I’d try and get my eyes on an original wheel and trust them to match the colour to the car wheel colour.

Dow 7 or Dow 9 coating. If you try anodizing magnesium parts they take on the consistency of sticky buns.

Reading the first post again, I see that I missed something.

High build primer is probably what was being suggested. All decent motor factors stock it, and it is good for pinholes, but not for the sort of pitting that I think you may have on your wheels.

I’d second the epoxy advice, but mix it with micro balloons for easy sanding. But that’s because I’ve got big pots of it here, with pumps etc.. I can’t see any good reason not to use Isopon P38. It doesn’t need anything special to prime it, just use the primer you’d use anyway. If you have pinholes in the metal or the cured filler, high build primer is the answer. Very easy to rub down.

Lastly, I have no idea whether the wheels were originally painted. Anodising or lacquer would protect the metal However, after filling the corroded bits, paint is the only option so I’d try and get my eyes on an original wheel and trust them to match the colour to the car wheel colour.

Cannot you get the BS colour for the paint on the wheels?

A few words on car wheel paints.

Automotive diy/spares shops sell various brands. The actual finished colours vary hugely. Add the fact that car manufacturers all have a different favourite silver and the choice becomes bewildering.

Don’t buy the aftermarket ones unless you have seen the actual finished colour.

What I do is to look at the wheels on every car that I pass until I find the colour I like. Get the make/model/year and then order it from an online paint retailer.

It would, but epoxy is far superior. You’d be able to paint right over the epoxy, regular filler would require some sort of sealer & more faffing about.

I was led to believe that something like P40/38 would do the trick.

Use some form of epoxy as filler, Araldite or JBWeld spring to mind.

Hi there
Will either of the above solve the pitting problem or will I have to use some form of filler ??

What I would do (and have done on my extensive wheel collection), is get the hubs bead blasted to remove all corrosion. I would then use a suitable primer (2pack etch primer or indeed LAS does one in a spray can (Light Aero Spares)). I then use ‘wheel steel’ or aluminum alloy paint (any decent auto stockist).

I would suggest not keeping them outside! If you do wish to, then you may wish to pop another primer on top of the etch before the silver.

Or get them powder coated, not really expensive and will last longer outside

What I would do (and have done on my extensive wheel collection), is get the hubs bead blasted to remove all corrosion. I would then use a suitable primer (2pack etch primer or indeed LAS does one in a spray can (Light Aero Spares)). I then use ‘wheel steel’ or aluminum alloy paint (any decent auto stockist).

I would suggest not keeping them outside! If you do wish to, then you may wish to pop another primer on top of the etch before the silver.