Battle of Britain Pilgrimage 30/31st October 2010 – 70th Anniversary

This last weekend, Geedee and I embarked on a 2 day pilgrimage to sites associated with the Battle of Britain. It was a very emotive trip that was exciting and also quite sad in places. There are pictures at the end…if you don’t want to suffer my ramblings!

We left Amesbury at 7am and our first stop was West Malling airfield (as was). It was terrifying how much it had changed since we went to the old GWAD shows in the 80s. The beautiful control tower is now derelict behind an Asda – how things have changed. It seems that they are trying to decide what to do to it as it is listed.

Next, we went to Brenzett to the Museum. It is delightful and well laid out. This was the only museum that permitted photography. We drove down back roads past many villages that I recognized from graves and losses during the Battle.

We went to Hawkinge to the fantastic Kent Battle of Britain museum where we had a warm welcome from the chaps. Although photography is not allowed, this should/must not put people off visiting – it is without doubt the most comprehensive/best display to the Few and those momentous months from 1940. The exhibits and layout are absolutely awe inspiring. There were several families visiting and the looks on their faces was priceless as they realized how the skies above were a tumult and as important as any battlefield we have ever had in the UK. The closeness we came to being invaded will always amaze me. The museum is a veritable network of priceless treasures and tributes.

We went to the Hawkinge cemetery next. The RAF and Luftwaffe fallen lie chronologically next to each other (up to the end of 1940 – when the locals decided the Germans should be put in a separate area). With modern perspectives, it is actually apt that the Few and the Foe lie side by side – they were all brave men with more in common than many would think. We popped down to the Cat & Custard Pot, which was sadly closed – however, the landlady let us have a quick look around. Some lovely memorabilia in this small pub that was a haunt for the Hawkinge airmen and airwoman. A quick detour to the small flint faced church ensued.

All, the while you could almost hear and feel the Few and the Foe flying overhead.

The next stop was the Capel Le Ferne Battle of Britain memorial – this is an amazingly moving experience. The weather was a mix of sunshine, long shadows, towering Cu and then rain showers. I photographed a curtain of sun light falling on the sea off Folkestone. The new Sir Christopher Foxley-Norris wall is amazing and I picked out various names and remembered their ultimate sacrifice. As the years have gone by, the Few have been joined by their comrades-in-arms who have lived out a well deserved peacetime life. It is many of these men that I also remembered as well as the contribution of those still living. I have always felt that Rememberance Day should be more about veterans as well as those who died….I remember my grandfather at this time of year and the debt I owe him as well as the Few. The airman sculpture gazes across the sea towards France and towards the unmarked resting places of many brave airman from all sides. It is an emotive and moving memorial which could not be perfected any more. The Hurricane and Spitfire FSMs remind us what they (mostly) flew, but the memorial with the pilot and giant propellor say it all. A cheeky weathervane shows a Stuka being pursued on the visitor centre roof.

We drove along the coast and up the steep hill past Dover Castle. On the top of the White Cliffs, the two remaining RDF masts sit like two sentinel guardians staring defiantly still across the Dover Straits as they did in 1940. We recalled the live broadcasts describing the convoy attacks in July 1940 and the victorious RAF fighters raising the BBC commentators voice an octave or two.

We wound our way back past Hawkinge up to Denton and went into another of the Few’s pubs….the Jackdaw….it was also made famous by the Battle of Britain Film with grumpy Plummer and his gorgeous ‘wife’ Susannah York meeting. I tried to polish off the giant Jackdaw ribs but could not! Sadly we did not see the Spitfire Room because (at the time) we did not know it was there!! We spent the night in the Jackdaw’s sister pub the Duke of Cumberland – the landlady and landlord were friendly and the food lovely.

On Sunday we drove to Lashenden Museum at Headcorn via several churchyards to pay our respects. This museum also has a non photography policy…but again this does not matter as the people are enthusiastic, knowledgeable, friendly and the displays truly amazing focusing on the personal side not the war. It was somewhat bizarre when the MX5 owners club turned up at the airfield complete in Halloween garb!

We drove cross country to Geoff Nutkins wonderful but small BoB museum at Shoreham Kent – nestled down leafy lanes that were a multitude of golden autumnal shades. Odd to find such a gem within the M25 confines. We had a nice snack in the café and looked around. Geoff’s team have wonderful items that are superbly displayed and beautifully contexted. His paintings bring these parts to life. The Ju88 was fantastic too! Again this museum does not permit photography – again this should not be seen as a negative as the positives outweigh this. We saw the original black out board signed by members of the Few (and 92 Squadron) at their pub in Brasted – the White Hart. 20minutes later we went into the White hart which is now a swanky brasserie far removed from those days when the famous landlady treated the young pilots like her children. They have a photo of the board and a few photos but the feeling is gone replaced by modernism and magnolia paint.

We drove the short distance to the Chapel at Biggin Hill. It is proudly guarded by its Spitfire and Hurricane FSMs. This Chapel was a fine place to end our pilgrimage. The altar and wall and stain glass windows are so moving. I lit a candle to the Few and said a prayer.

Returning home in the rapidly setting light it was bizarre to see hundreds of children walking around dressed as ghouls, witches, pirates (!) and vampires – things they can do because of great heroes like the Few and the men and women who kept them flying.

I would like to thank all the people who helped make our pilgrimage so special.
These include the fine volunteers of the museums, the curator of the Biggin Hill Chapel, landlords and ladies, the people who tend the graves in the many church yards and all those who perpetuate and remember that momentous Finest Hour.

Most of all, I would like to thank the Few and those who supported and helped them in what they did. Without you, I would not be able to be here and those trick or treaters would not be able to enjoy freedom.

If you are still reading this….let me end with my favourite Battle of Britain poem by Lord Balfour of Inchrye:

On Weald of Kent I watched once more…
Again I heard that grumbling roar..
Of fighter planes, yet none were near..
And all around the sky was clear.
Borne on the wind, a whisper came..
Though men grow old, They stay the same…
And then I knew, unseen to eye..
The ageless Few were sweeping by.