inhibiting or slowing down corrsion on aircraft

Hello Guys
Thanks for the great advice. I soaked them both in wd40 for about 20 mins and cleaned some of the loose corrosion of first. I then placed them in plastic bags and removed most of the air for now. I will change them over to self seal bags in the near future.

Drop in a bag of silicagel while youre at it, to keep any moisture away

Theres also BoeShield T9 🙂

“Metal Prep” from any auto paint store will kill the corrosion, it’s diluted phosphoric acid & brightens the Al at the same time.

thanks TT. I need to find somethign that will eat the corrosion first it will probably eat most of the back of the black section as it is quite ferrous

It may not help much in this case, but in terms of preventative measures, this is what’s used at Duxford:

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/sundries/sundries31.html

Good for all your spade grips and bits of airframe etc that aren’t showing signs of active corrosion (and of course you can apply this once that’s been treated).

Peter – it can be much simpler! remember with WD you’ll have to clean it all off if you wanted to put something else over the top – also in my experience WD often ‘lifts’ wartime paint from crash remains over time – mainly because the paint finish was cheap cellulose without etch.

I do one of two things which are very simple and very cheap.

1) Use boot polish and a good quality boot brush, this creates a seal and works very very well – also darkens the corroded metal – works particularly well on iron, steel etc.

2) Watered down varnish – gloss is best as its tougher but can look a bit odd- water it down with turps or thinners (or water if acrylic) and brush over with a broad brush – will preserve very well.

3) To remove ‘daz’ – the powdery corrosion you need a corrosion ‘eater’ such as accelogold. which will cut back the corrosion – help it by wirebrushing the worst off first.

Depends on what you want to conserve, its material and condition.

The varnish and boot polish tricks WORK. i have been involved with Aviation Archaeology for 18+ years and items i preserved then are still as good now -if the surface gets worn or chipped from being moved around then you can touch it up or recoat it to preserve the finish – the boot polish one is a REALLY good tip and works brilliantly on bakelite eg instrument exteriors – you do need some good boot brushes though – one to put it on one to polish it.

Best thing is the boot polish is reversible.

Both techniques work for small and large stuff – have done prop blades, bosses and large skinning sections in the past with varnish, watered down it gets into all the nooks and crannies

With the pics you have shown i would try both the boot polish and varnish and see which you prefer –

do hope that helps

TT

Inhibiting

AC-50 is available in Canada. We had a containor of it at our Spitfire hangar. To be honest not sure where it came from however talk to your local AME’s where you are Peter and I am sure they can point you where to purchase it.

Has no one on here heard of ACF-50? :confused:

peter A superb product, but as Blue Max mentions, I’m sure it is not available in Canada. If you can get your hands on it though, it is far superior to any of the other products mentioned, since it penetrates the entire depth of the corrosion easily and removes the electrolyte that drives the corrosion, wd40, wax oil and the like are effective, they do inhibit (wd40 not particularly effectively though) the electrolytic process but are difficult to get to penetrate the entire depth of the corrossion, since one is wax based and the other not very powerful, hence why you have to soak in hot agent, to encourage.

ACF 50, like the others though, will need to be re-applied every year or so. ring the guys at Light Aero, they ship all over the world, and one can of acf-50 will last for years. Its clean and easy to spray on.

http://www.lightaero.co.uk/

Has no one on here heard of ACF-50? :confused:

Yep, but it is a case of somthing that will do the job that is readily available to Peter.

Has no one on here heard of ACF-50? :confused:

Waxoyl

hello

Waxoyl is indeed available in Canada, even though very few people seem to have heard about it. I purchase mine from these gents:

http://www.octagonmotorgroup.com/

They are located in Vancouver, though, so I’m not sure if this helps or not.

good luck

P.S. there are some websites that have recipes for “homemade” Waxoyl, but I can’t vouch for them. Also, Dinitrol seems to have overtaken Waxoyl as the preferred anti-corrosion product in English classic car periodicals, so if you can find some then go for it. I did track down the distribution point for Dinitrol in Montreal, but the surly gent on the other end of the line spoke very bad English and even more atrocious French, so I made no headway…

cheers

greg v.

Hello Guys
Thanks for the great advice. I soaked them both in wd40 for about 20 mins and cleaned some of the loose corrosion of first. I then placed them in plastic bags and removed most of the air for now. I will change them over to self seal bags in the near future.

A self seal plastic bag will be an excellent addition to the process of presevation.

If you are trying to keep a part in original condition and preserve paint, I suggest an acrylic lacquer (definitely not polyeurathane based as it yellows). I use this on mag alloy grips etc (it comes in satin finish), if it is a total restoration then it is back to bare metal and a suitable paint system. As others have said, you need to remove one or more of the ingredients for corrosion. O2 is the easiest, hence a coat of lacquer.

I thought you were talking about some surface corrosion you wanted to get rid of! My misunderstanding 😮

After looking after the pictures you posted I’m with mjr on this one. A good socking in a (hot) vax oil is probably the best you can do. The WD40 might be good as well, but I’ve got my reservations about it for the longer(-ish) run. I don’t think it would as good as the hot vax oil bath.

One thing to keep in mind though. No matter what you do, I think (judging by your pictures) that your items are living on a borrowed time, so in the end corrosion will destroy them. It will only take longer with the medicen prescriped! They are basically being eaten away inside out. Only thing that could stop it, would be to place them in a vaccum were no oxygen was in the atmosphere. Hardly a practical proposion in you case 😮

Thanks Blue max
you mention keeping the air from it should I seal thme in plastic bags after the wd40 treatment?

Peter, mjr is on the right line s here. to stem this corrosion you need to remove the oxygen getting to it which is effectivly feeding it. Any of the items mjr has mentioned should do the trick but any corrosion inhibiter will work, somthing like wd40 if you have it. One that should be available state side is Tri Flow. The thing to remember is that if you plan to do anything with these items in the future, ie paint them, you will need to remove it, if you are just looking to preservr then this is the way to go. Be aware you may need to retreat after a awhile to keep up the level of protection.

Peter,

Im struggling to find any reference to Hammeite underbody seal, or wax oil in Canada. They sell the stuff in South America, yet not in Canada, bizzare. There is another product nearly as good, called Dinitrol,which is very similar to wax oil, that is available in Canada from any good auto part stockist. Check out the link below, the dinitrol 1000 aerosol is fairly good. This will slow it up, but really to stop this corrosion all together, will mean some destructive measures.

Country:
CANADA

Company:
V H ASKO

Adress:
45, Stinson Boulevard
ST LAURENT, Quebec
H4N 2E1
Tel:
+1 514 336 4258
Fax:
+1 514 745 0187
Contact:
V Oghli
Email:
[email]vhaskoinc@aol.com[/email]

http://www.dinitrol.com/

thanks mjr

Hi peter,

I think so Its just called wax oil, readily available for the motor industry, made by hammerite I think. Ill have a trawl round in a minute and find a link.

MJR

OK thanks MJR once again would tht be available here?