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Minor corrosion stabilization on Merlin part

Hi guy’s,
Need some advice on how to go about cleaning and stabilizing a merlin engine carb part. It has some areas of pockmarked white deposits from being in the ground for 70yrs and I wondered what would be the best way to conserve this so it doesnt get worse?

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By: Peter - 24th October 2015 at 16:48

Some updated pictures.. You can see the areas of concern…

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By: Trolly Aux - 22nd October 2015 at 12:40

This can be very good, I have used it many times, smells better than WD and leaves a waxy coat.

FERROSOL

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By: Peter - 21st October 2015 at 22:37

I will get another picture up for you guys on the weekend to show the state of play..

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By: Whitley_Project - 21st October 2015 at 22:13

I would try Deox-c on this Peter. It will not damage the paint and clean up the rust. I have found that it can help with corroded aluminium too. It would be a pity to lose the paint.

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By: Peter - 21st October 2015 at 20:58

Thanks Flying pencil.. it looks a bit polka dot with bare spots at the moment.. I am tempted to just compeltely strip it to bare metal..

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By: Flying_Pencil - 21st October 2015 at 19:46

Thanks guys, I have a few areas where there was white powdery residue in places or pitting .. there are also blisters in the paint when the tops are removed, its the same thing.. almost like calcium powder?? I used a soft brush in a dremel on low speed to remove the powdered deposits to get back to metal again before giving it a good rinse and then coating of wd40 and light oil…. I am not sure now wether to completely remove the paint and take care of the corrrosion on it before repainting???

“white powdery” is the aluminum corroding, entropy to natural Al-Oxide state.
A little corrosion is not bad at all, since it is actually a barrier to further corrosion, the down side is it could also hold moisture.

You don’t need to be aggressive with cleaning, just get the loose stuff off.
With paint bubbles you must open all the bubbles so no trapped moisture.

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By: Flying_Pencil - 21st October 2015 at 19:37

Sounds like good product.

Suggest: Soft toothbrush to get the light corrosion and dirt off, alcohol to clean any grease.

Q-tip / swab to get the preservative in nooks.

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By: Peter - 18th October 2015 at 23:00

Thanks Antoni

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By: antoni - 18th October 2015 at 22:41

Waxoyl comes in two types, black and clear. The black is bituminous and used a a kind of underseal. Obviously you do not want that kind. The clear is, I think, lanolin based. Certainly it was originally. Lanolin is extremely water repellent, after all it is what stops sheep becoming a soggy mess every time is rains, but it also penetrates into the grain of the metal and so more effective. For your needs a 400 ml aerosol can will do. Waxoyl is widely available in the USA as is Fluid Film a similar lanolin based protection.

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By: Peter - 18th October 2015 at 14:27

Thanks guys, I have a few areas where there was white powdery residue in places or pitting .. there are also blisters in the paint when the tops are removed, its the same thing.. almost like calcium powder?? I used a soft brush in a dremel on low speed to remove the powdered deposits to get back to metal again before giving it a good rinse and then coating of wd40 and light oil…. I am not sure now wether to completely remove the paint and take care of the corrrosion on it before repainting???

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By: Arabella-Cox - 18th October 2015 at 11:50

It doesn’t “make” WD-40, that is different entirely. Waxoyl is a microcrystalline wax suspended in a solvent. The added white spirit just thins this out further and gives it greater penetrating power.

PX24 is similar, leaving a very fine water repellent layer on the surface which needs to be re-applied every so often.

WD-40 would protect your Merlin part, Peter. problem is it evaporates too quickly and what is left behind does not have the film thickness to prevent long-term corrosion. WD-40 is best used then the treated part sealed in a polythene bag to inhibit evaporation. Ideal for long-term storage but not for display items.

I’ve treated whole Merlin engines with thinned Waxoyl after cleaning. The surface, once dried, can even be painted over – something you can’t do with WD-40.

Anon.

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By: tfctops - 18th October 2015 at 09:41

Sorry Peter been working.
The PX is like the OM in OM15 hydraulic fluid in that case oil mineral and 15 is the viscosity if I remember correctly.
Its a spec no.
PX24 is what we sprayed yellow helecopters with after washing them following wet winching.
PX32 is a lot thicker and as the name Waxoyle suggest goes on and becomes a wax sealant which will last a lot longer but add drag.
Whether it will suit your needs I will leave to Anon
Edited just read Anons post, maybe mixing Waxoyle with white spirit is making WD40 but I’m no chemist.
Cheers
Jon

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By: Peter - 17th October 2015 at 22:41

Thanks Jon so wd40 would do it?

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By: tfctops - 17th October 2015 at 20:01

PX32 is the same formula I seem to remember, we blathered the Phantoms at Leeming in it.
PX24 is WD40 equivalent from memory.
Best
Jon

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By: Peter - 17th October 2015 at 17:37

Not sure if we can get waxoyl over here?

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By: Arabella-Cox - 17th October 2015 at 17:20

I’ve found a 50/50 Waxoyl/White Spirit mix is good for dunking parts in.

Leave it to dry for a few days and the result is almost invisible, unlike the sticky brush marks when 100% Waxoyl is used.

If you can, remove loose deposits first, though these will absorb the solution OK if left in situ.

Re-dip in solution every couple of years to maintain coating.

Anon.

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