Model advice please

If you wish to stick with enamels, Model Master do a good range known for accuracy (though, having largely converted to acrylic, I’ve not tried them – I just used to work in a model shop. Vallejo is definitely my favorite acrylic range, though I also use mixed media.

I can’t remember it’s availability in enamel, but it’s probably worth investing in mediums (numerous types are available, for different purposes, but the ones to which I refer are basically paint without the pigment). These will act in the same way as thinners, but will maintain the consistency of the paint, if that makes sense. Flow enhancers are a good example, achieving a smoother finish without requiring several extra layers.

Such a thing would also be ideal for the thinner paints you mention, thickening it without affecting the colour.

You will, of course, have to check such things are available for enamels (I seem to recall Humbrol doing so, but I’m probably wrong as I really can’t remember).

Mark.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Hi Dave,

Be sure to remember that with the GR3s, you’ll have difficulty with the flexi-tail on the rear. I had an absolutely nightmare using the Green’s kit and I’ve heard the same happens with Robert Marchisio ones too. It took me a while to find the solution, but if you find the same problem with fault included fasteners then EJOT‘s Delta PT thermoplastic screw does the trick.

Well that’s true!! I am working on it…..:)

It is if you get the colours you want, though if I got a box full of fluorescent red I would be stuffed.. 😀

Blimey that’s a good deal!!

And you can often get part used paints on eBay, I bought a box with about 150 Vallejo ones for about £ 30 and most were new… Frightning how much I have now, I have three of the big sets plus the box I use to top up the others with, it just sort of grew in dribs and drabs..

Much appreciated. Thank you.

May I muscle in on the thread title?

I have restarted modelling and recently bought a selection of Humbrol enamel paints, from Humbrol. Some are very liquid/runny and some are quite viscous after equal stirring time. The thin paint is messy to apply ( I do not airbrush ) and require several coats, whereas the thicker paints are applied easily and thickly. Is there any reason for the variation in viscocity? Many thanks.

ive only heard and read and not tried but “Tamiya” paint appears to be far better than the Humbrol eco friendly rubbish. the paint has a bigger sellection and accurate in colour shades. again its down to prep sometimes and for a better fininsh its always good to use a primer undercoat

Marvellous figures, Tony and thanks for the advice and encouragement. I am working with a few old Frog 1/72 but more recent Airfix, Italieri and Revell 1/48.

I use Vallejo that are acrylic water based, they like a primer which I use halfords acrylic car primer in a rattle can for.
Tend to thin with the proprietry thinner, mineral water or isopropyl alcohol, dry really quickly as in minutes and cover well and smooth, but need a day or two to fully harden.

You might find 1/72 small to work on, as you will have grown from when you used to do them before.. But easier to store.

One of my slightly bigger models 200mm painted in acrylics… Been back in the hobby a couple of years off and on

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff321/taylortony/modelling/200%20mm/c1.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff321/taylortony/modelling/200%20mm/G1.jpg

Stick with it, it is a great hobby to get back into 😀

Thanks. I will certainly try much more stirring but thinning is the opposite of what I need – they are already too thin.

I’ve also recently ‘restarted’ the hobby and whilst I’m no expert I’ll offer my 2p’s worth!

I’ve always found paints vary, metallics are especially hard to work with. It’s best not to use the paints as they are out of the tin, I find they take some stirring (sometimes up to twenty minutes work!) and often some thinning with either white spirit or the paint thinners produced specifically for the purpose. To get the best results it’s sometime worth thinning the paint right down and applying two or more coats.

I notice acryllic paints are more popular these days, I have no real experience with those but I guess they would be thinned with water?

Bruce

Aha!! Let’s hope someone here can solve our problem….

Thanks for the advice everyone. Charlie, I’ve just bought a load of Humbrol for the above post and am practising on a JU52 at the moment. I’m finding exactly the same thing.

May I muscle in on the thread title?

I have restarted modelling and recently bought a selection of Humbrol enamel paints, from Humbrol. Some are very liquid/runny and some are quite viscous after equal stirring time. The thin paint is messy to apply ( I do not airbrush ) and require several coats, whereas the thicker paints are applied easily and thickly. Is there any reason for the variation in viscocity? Many thanks.

Well for the Phantom FGR2 in 1/72nd you want the Fujimi FGR2 kit as its the best of the F-4M’s available, for the Harrier GR-3 you best with the Italeri kit and with the Lightning Fmk6 i suppose the Trumpeter is the the best injection moulded kit although the pinched tail pipe section is best replaced with an aftermarket Resin set.

If you want a two seater Lighting T5 then you need either the Neomega resin conversion set for the Trumpeter kit or the Whirlybird all resin Lighning T5

Thanks for that Tony, believe it or not I never thought of e bay…:o

The 150 is available and the pa28

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Cessna+&_sacat=1188&_odkw=Cessna+152&_osacat=1188&_from=R40

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Model-Kits-/1188/i.html?_nkw=piper+cherokee

There are the smaller ones available see

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Model-Kits-/1188/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Cessna+172

But the nichimo 1/20th is rare, I have 2 😀