Perspex rennovations

Fine grade GRP cutting compound paste. Excellent for abrasions and UV light degraded acrylics and polycarbonates.

I agree with Amarok here

PlastiX is expensive, but works beautifully. I polished up an escape hatch off an FB-VI Mosquito for someone and it really came up like new…..took a lot of elbow grease though! Elbow grease is cheap, but you will use a lot…LOL

Hope that helps a little
Anthony

Toothpaste is a mild abrasive, and I’ve seen it used on guitars and cars very occasionally. Definitely a budget solution at best. The biggest issue, for me, is the lack of data. For example, nobody has measured the difference in ‘grits’ between brands of toothpaste!

If you can afford better products then I would avoid toothpaste as a buffing compound entirely; especially on vintage aircraft parts where you have one shot at it. The minty smell might get annoying, and some whitening types might impart a blue stain if anything.

Just to add, I used Micromesh on a canopy some years ago and it did a great job, but it takes time working down through the different grades of paper.

Jules

For what it is worth my money goes with MicroMesh. The attached images show before / initial application with the second approx two thirds through the process.

Kind regards,

Tim

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My vote goes with MicroMesh too. Used it on a Spitfire upper window.

You don’t use a watch to measure how long it takes, you use a calendar. Lots of elbow grease, lots of time, great product though.

It’s not only classic cars, there are a few products around for restoring headlights on modern cars too.
Mine are terrible but I haven’t got around to trying any yet.
Certainly some get excellent reviews but as a kit is designed to only do two headlights, the cost for enough to do a canopy could be prohibitive.

Micromesh is the stuff used to remove scratches on aircraft transparencies. Be aware that it’ll take elbow grease aplenty, and if the transparency is clouded, you’ll never get it clear again.

I used a Meguires polish, a mild version (they make several) used to restore soft plastic Windows in convertible tops, on a deeply scratched Bell 47 bubble. It worked very well.
You might try looking at ads in classic automobile magazines to see the various brands available.

Depending on the severity of the damage, you can also use automotive polishing compound (T Cut) as a first, more aggressive, step.

Almost any polish will work to a degree. Like Texantomcat, I used some metal polish on a plastic trim piece on my truck that was badly scratched by winter road grime.

Just try a small, preferably inconspicuous, area and see what works best for your application. Be patient and be prepared to work in several steps with increasing doneness, rather like using higher grades of sandpaper on wood.

Give Brasso a go – you’ll be surprised! For a more expensive and professional option, the Micro Mesh system works well. But trust me on the Brasso – brought a Hunter canopy up a treat for me a few months ago….

TT

T-Cut works well on Plastic or you can try Meguiars PlastX Plastic Polish again works really well

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