Preserving Aircraft Outdoors

Talking about corrosion / deterioration / outside storage etc….any good news on ‘Bedsheet Bomber’ yet??…..PLEASE SOMEBODY SAY YES !!!!!

i second 320 Psi, this concoction is very effective, especially cost wise
.px24 is very good, and expensive.

Another product which leaves all of these in the shade is called SP400, manufactured by CRC industries. It is an American product designed for industrial punishment, Long term corossion inhibitor. Once applied behind panels, under floors etc, it never needs doing again. For outer skin its best suited to long term storage conditions. It is very similar to dinitrol, but not as unsightly or thick, it leaves a gold/yellowish, dry film, weather proof for 2 years on outer skins, and comes in various formats including pressurised spray cans. Denmans or Lockwell supply it. It isnt cheap though, but since it only needs applying once behind panels etc, maybe not so expensive in the long run.

MJR

We have always used a 40% liquid WD40 60% Waxoil mix on both of ours for the last 18 years, we mop it on in Oct/Nov and wipe it all off the upper surfaces and sides again in the spring ready for open days, the wheel bays are well thick with the stuff and show no signs of corrosion, we keep the tyres covered all the time and they are topped up every 2 – 3 weeks.
Both A/C have sat outside for the majority of that time with covers over the cockpit, nose, jet pipes and spine.
All grease points are topped up every 12 months, and of course the liberal doses of TLC, I have yet to find any major signs of corrosion on either of our two, and we have over the years been deep inside them for all the usual fixing of things, its always an engine out to do any job on a Lightning :rolleyes:so we get lots of chances to have a good luck around inside the airframes.
Just keep doing what you think is best for the aircraft.

The anti-det mix used on WF922 at MAM – (the PR.3 Canberra – remember?) – consists of 80% WD-40 to 20% cheap motor oil (Tesco’s type). This seems to work admirably.

This smidgen of gen comes from a series of ‘Thoughts’ in a new article by Malc about setting up and looking after static display aircraft. This is due to go public on my web site on Wednesday. 😉

wv838.
Wouldn’t recommend too much use of that power-wash thing. Apart from the jet being abrasive it can force water into cracks and crevices like nothing else.

.

I think Waxoyl is very similar to the NATO PX32 so I would definately second bloodnok’s reccomendation.
The Canberra Main Spar has to be Crack Tested on a regular basis and is left paint stripped for just that purpose. We apply PX32 to the bare area’s of the spar between crack testing and have had no corrosion onset at all, and that’s even with flying the summer months.

regards

we use LPS3/Dinitrol quite extensively in work to limit corrosion, this is painted or sprayed on belly skins, wing spars, trailing edge areas. the nearest commercialy available stuff to this is waxoyl. if you are using it, just make sure it doesn’t block up any drain holes. in fact it would be a good idea to go over the whole aircraft making sure all the area drains are clear, it doesn’t take a lot to block them up, just a flake of piaint can do it.
px-24/WD40 is good because it dispels water, and can penetrate skin joints and other areas where water might lie for a while, as has been mentioned before, one drawback is that its very ‘thin’, and will run out after a while.
things like exposed oleos should be wiped down fairly regularly with a thin oil like aeroshell 3/ OM12, or just 3-in-1 oil.
make sure the cabin is aired regularly to get rid of any damp air, and if the aircraft is still safe for power on, do it as often as you can, and power up as many systems as you can. nothing destroys an aircraft like sitting idle.

if possible get a program together, and gradually start taking panels off, painting the inside with waxoyl/wd40, and put the panel back on. make a note of the panels done as you go along.
as has been said before, this won’t stop corrosion, but should go some way to slowing it down.

Thanks for the pointers guys. We’ll certainly be looking into a few of the products mentioned. Any sources for jacks that we should know about? With people constantly on and off the aircraft she has to be very stable. (currently chained down to the apron).

Hunter@MAM – yes, a few of our guys did visit you about 2 years ago. I was re-wiring the flight-deck of the 41 at the time so missed out. They are a very friendly bunch and there are no ‘egos’ to ****** things up. All very equal and enthusiastic. A real pleasure to be a part of it.

I think once the elements _do_ start to get a grip, we’ll move her to Arizona to arrest the damage. no, honest we will 🙂

Corrosion X isn’t acid based at all? It’s a thin film lubricant which displaces water and provides a moisture and air barrier thus preventing further oxidisation of the aluminium. You spray it around inside panels ect and it’s supposed to penetrate all the corners and gaps to provide full protection, not really something you’d want to do with Acid based fluids!! 😮

I don’t think it would seep out as RPSmith has advised with WD40.

I guess it’s a recent development of the WD40 / PX24 genre which has been designed specifically for inhibiting aircraft structures.

It would be rather expensive I should think but just thought I’d mention it as it’s supposed to be “Sierra Hotel” if you get my drift 😀 (plus you may be able to scrounge a few cans if you can find someone who uses it).

I should think PX24 would also be hard to come by unless you have contacts in her majesties services so out of interest, PX24 can be obtained in civvy street under the name “Ardrox 3961”

Hope that helps and good luck with the preservation.

Regards

The MAM’s first use of WD40 as a preservative/water dispersant met with limited success.

Not knowing any better at the time (25+ years ago) WD40 was sprayed around the inside of several airframes. Shortly after, with gravity playing it’s part, the oil – very much dirtier now than when applied – began to seep/dribble out of panel joints. On such as the Mystere and F-100 in their unpainted state they looked very messy. At that time there was no water supply (on the original site) so washing was not an option.

Hope this might be of interest to anyone considering it’s use.

Roger Smith.

109ster – A number of aluminium corrosion removers are based on phosphoric acid and certainly liberal quantities of that have been used on a friend’s Rallye ! In Cyprus the Wessex after a wash used to be sprayed with PX-24 to keep the salt at bay. The nearest equivalent of PX-24 is WD40 so that could work out a little pricey!

That procedure was exactly the same as used when I was on Hunters at RAF Brawdy – Pembrokeshire.. right by the sea. The full anti-det servicing as it was called included re greasing after the wash, and liberal application of the PX-24 made life difficult when climbing up on the fuselage to get to the rudder lock 🙁
When I started at MAM in Coventry, I had to produce the original RAF documentation for this Anti Det Servicing in order to convince those around me that I hadn’t gone mad by applying WD-40 everywhere!!! Incidentally the cost of that can be reduced by buying 5ltr bulk containers from a good supplier as we do. Best technique after the washed airframe is dry is soaking a rag in the stuff and wiping over everywhere there is metal. Not on transparancies or anything rubber though… A useful side effect is that it treats any corroded fasteners so panel removal becomes easier with time.
Have to point out that this has been carried out prior to the excellent repaint by Malcolm & co at the Museum – it’s not a good idea to do if a repaint is imminent, as it’s not easy to remove any traces that might affect paint stability.

PS: I remember a visit by you guys from Speke to the MAM some time ago – gotta say you seemed a very friendly and enthusiastic bunch!!!

Good luck with the Jetstream preservation 😉

Remove everything behind the panels he says…….

Aaaaagh! Luckily the wing was scrap anyway!!

Fouga – Difficulty is if you remove everything behind the panels you get to the difficult position of are you preserving the aircraft as a whole or just a facsimile.

– put it on small jacks. Just enough so the tires are off the ground
– try to keep moisture out. Weatherproof the airframe by closing all possible gaps
– If it will never fly again, remove all that is behind panels. Wires, plumbing,… keeps moisture from building. easier to keep dry
– vent the airframe regularly
– if you can, taxi it around once a year so the wheels don’t rust locked

109ster – A number of aluminium corrosion removers are based on phosphoric acid and certainly liberal quantities of that have been used on a friend’s Rallye ! In Cyprus the Wessex after a wash used to be sprayed with PX-24 to keep the salt at bay. The nearest equivalent of PX-24 is WD40 so that could work out a little pricey!

Not sure there is a lot you could do about the UV light problem, but I have come across a fluid called “Corrosion X” which when sprayed on aluminuim components, supposedly almost eliminates corrosion altogether.
We’ve used it on our Canberra in places but have not really had the opportunity to evaluate wether it works well or not as we are hangared most of the time.

Here’s a link to have a look.

http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html

Not sure where to get it or how much it costs tho?

Best of luck keeping her tip top.

Regards
Chris

WV838 – There are a number of problems to be addressed . The harmful effects of sunlight on transparencies is a major problem but by using covers you end up with aircraft that are not very pleasant to the eye. Wheels and indeed tyres are a perenial problem with most wheels containing an amount of magnesium which powders quite readily. The rubber perishes through the effects of sunlight and heat and cold.
Sadly as has been already mentioned it’s very difficult to keep the elements at bay-
regular washing will help as it keeps the surface degradation at bay . Another exercise well worth carrying out is opening up panels and letting air get in to dry her out a little. People often don’t realise that aircraft can rot from the inside out if water can collect. It’s not unusual on some taildraggers to find severe corrosion at the back end if water has been allowed to gather.
Maintaining an aircraft outside isn’t impossible but requires a huge amount of determination and the realisation that long term preservation involves being undercover.

She’s a nice looking bird your doing a good job keeping her clean must be a nightmare have a white aircarft but ay least its not Vulcan sized trust me I know how hard it is to keep one looking good and running!

Sounds like you are doing a great job.

But please don’t fool yourself. There is no such thing as outdoor preservation. (Desert boneyards apart) All you can do is delay the inevitable decay to a pile of corrosion for an indeterminate number of years.

Moggy

I was told years ago that the Navy considered anywhere within eight miles inland of the coast had salt laden air. They would add extra corrosion inhibitors accordingly. I know that’s not what you wanted to hear!
I think that your treatment of the paint is on the right lines although it will need repainting eventualy due to the effects of the washing and UV light. Your hand polishing is an exellent idear as not only are you adding a layer of protection you are getting “up close” to it and will notice and touch up any dammage to the paint work.
The tyres are another thing. If you can it would be a good idear to jack it up and put it on axle stands. This will prevent any cracking to the side walls and stop you having to top the wheels up every now and again. With the tyres in this condition a layer of tyre black every year will keep them looking good. The only thing with this is the aircraft becomes un-movable. I dont know what your situation is at Speke and that might be a problem!!!. Other than that Keep them topped up and turn the wheels every few months to try to stop the flat spots becoming too flat. The thing that you have got going for you is that the tyres for the J41 are still being made so to change them every few years, whilst expensive is an option too!
I wish you well in your endevors.

Rgds Cking