Preserving corroded steel items

I use a product called bio-deruster, sounds a very similar product to the above sugestion. Uses a chelation process.

Doesn’t burn and removes all the oxidisation right into the pits. Great for seized assemblies and doesn’t harm plastics, rubber or even touch paint or chrome. Cast iron emerges from an overnight soaking a nice uniform grey.

Blasting is pretty agresssive.

If you can find a company that does soda blasting (as in bi-carb), then you’ll find that is an extremely gentle medium. It is possible to take paint off layer by layer, and it’s good for the environment.

I’ve used it on various classic car and motorcycles panels etc, and it’s very impressive.

Thanks for the tips!

I’ll see if I can source some mould protection spray locally and give it a try.

Not sure about the other methods of protection, but if you use the wax method, the wax should be replaced every so often (about 5 years).

Johnnie

Turretboy,

Use something akin to gun blue, or chemical blacking. Then a light coating of mould preservative as has been suggested.

Bruce

I used the Bilt Hamber stuff on an oxygen bottle that came from a Hornet and got a very good result. I also did a reduction gear and engine mount with it, the latter was a ball of rust but that came up well.

Mould protection spray will keep rust or oxidiation from metals.
been useing the stuff for over 20 years . we have had chrome faced mould tools sprayed with the stuff left in a damp warehouse for years and with no problems. Rocal is a supplier , comes in a spray can . and in diffrent colors . the color is just a guide color so you can see where the stuff as been sprayed.

wipes of with most common degreaseing solvents.
LINK BELOW .
http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/maintenance/corrosionprotection/

Any recommendations on how to preserve bare metal gears that operate without lubrication?

All parts have been dismantled and blasted.

Electrolysis is your friend.

I use a product called bio-deruster, sounds a very similar product to the above sugestion. Uses a chelation process.

Doesn’t burn and removes all the oxidisation right into the pits. Great for seized assemblies and doesn’t harm plastics, rubber or even touch paint or chrome. Cast iron emerges from an overnight soaking a nice uniform grey.

Blasting is pretty agresssive.

An old fashioned malt vinegar bath is also very good at removing rust from steel at a low cost

If the metal is at all suspect, blasting is a very good way to blow holes in it, especially if you have a “mate” who cleans waggon chassis etc. Dont do this.
I work in metal finishing, and if I was asked to clean something like this to bare metal, first off, Id ask why. You are going to loose most signs of age, any paint markings will disappear. If you still wanted it done, Id hot soak clean it to get rid of any grease,paint etc, then take the rust off with a cold inhibited hydochloric bath, then Id probably dip it in WD40

Thanks Ross

Sounds hi-tech – I like it

Hi Elliott,

As an alternative to blasting and painting use a soak in Deox C followed by a coating of microcrystaline wax.

The Deox C will remove the surface corrossion without too much base metal being taken away.

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html

The wax is reversible and will seal the surface against further corrosion (It’s used for suits of armour!)

http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_renaissance_wax.htm

Regards
Ross