Screw removal tool – Harrier GR.3

Thing I learnt about screwdrivers is the longer the better.My “screwbuster” is a large file handle with a two foot length of quarter inch steel brake line,ending in a quarter inch socket welded on.The socket accepts all the right screw bits.It is the torque of the screwdriver that does the work.

I have plenty of these bits in my kit, PM me if you would like a couple sent over…….
Having the right bit will make your life sooooo much easier!

[QUOTE=Lindy’s Lad;1432937]I actually made a successful tool for these fasteners using a 2p piece and a set of large wire locking pliers….. The copper coin gives way before the fastner…QUOTE]

Anyone got 2 pence I can borrow!:D
Thanks again for the replies, all suggestions are being taken in.

Page 133 of the above catalogue (pdf print page 133… 131 of the actual document…)

You might use the catalogue, but Bardolph passed away 3 years ago. All rights to the name and the catalogue were bought up by Craig tools.

http://www.craigtools.co.uk/

ahhh…… that would explain a few things….

I actually made a successful tool for these fasteners using a 2p piece and a set of large wire locking pliers….. The copper coin gives way before the fastner, so if they do need drilling out through corrosion you won’t destroy the head………………..

oh, and we still order via the Bardolph catalogue……

You might use the catalogue, but Bardolph passed away 3 years ago. All rights to the name and the catalogue were bought up by Craig tools.

http://www.craigtools.co.uk/

I actually made a successful tool for these fasteners using a 2p piece and a set of large wire locking pliers….. The copper coin gives way before the fastner, so if they do need drilling out through corrosion you won’t destroy the head………………..

oh, and we still order via the Bardolph catalogue……

What you need are No.1 – 5 High Torque bits depending on what you are doing. The majority of fasteners in a GR.3 are No.3’s – forget sharpening up anything to do the job – you need the correct bit which will fit on a 1/4 drive.

Having been on the last U.K GR.3 Minor team it’s very likely that I put a lot of the H.T screws in that you are trying to undo – therefore if you PM me you address I will send you a No.3 bit which should make your life easier!

Listen to David Burke’s reply, don’t bother messing with modified screwdrivers as mentioned in other replies, High Torque fasteners are designed to be removed with High Torque bits, and sometimes it’s hard enough with the correct tool

One of the most important things to remember when taking pretty much any kind of screw in fastener out is to remove as much of the paint/crap out of the head as possible before trying to undo it.
Once the slot is damaged they (Hi torque, tri-wing, offset phillips) are right b*ggers to get out, even with the correct ‘bit’.
Take a bit of time with a sharp scriber to pick the paint out, and if you have access to an air powered impact gun set pretty low you at least have a fighting chance.

He was looking at some of the fastenings I have (with curved-bottom, splayed-end slots) and saying that the tool to get them out loked like a disc slotted into the end of a screwdriver blade, fitted into a crank brace and could be used at all sorts of angles for extraction purposes. He really rated them.

Is this the kind of thing you guys are on about? No idea what it’s called though (other than a screwdriver!).
Anon.

Sounds right to me.

Slotted fastening’s tool

Funny, I was just discussing these things last weekend with Terry P.
He was looking at some of the fastenings I have (with curved-bottom, splayed-end slots) and saying that the tool to get them out loked like a disc slotted into the end of a screwdriver blade, fitted into a crank brace and could be used at all sorts of angles for extraction purposes. He really rated them.

Is this the kind of thing you guys are on about? No idea what it’s called though (other than a screwdriver!).

P.S. I find that any fastening that resists being undone often benefits from a sharp crack with a small hammer (my favourite tool) or punch. This often breaks the rust bond and allows for easier removal of the fastening. It is the first turn that either brings success – or tears the slot.

Anon.

Many thanks for all the replies and PMs on this, I can see that it is an oft’ encountered problem!
From memory, the ones I have arn’t quite like above (but damn close) as the heads are flat but with the semi fan and curved bottom to the slot.

DB, every screw I try and remove, I wil think about your post!

If you are talking the Dished type screwdriver straight blade it is a DZUS fastener and Snap Off do one, Link below
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=6361&group_ID=688&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Very close, but the slot also splays out at an angle at each end. Thus….
.

What you need are No.1 – 5 High Torque bits depending on what you are doing. The majority of fasteners in a GR.3 are No.3’s – forget sharpening up anything to do the job – you need the correct bit which will fit on a 1/4 drive.

Having been on the last U.K GR.3 Minor team it’s very likely that I put a lot of the H.T screws in that you are trying to undo – therefore if you PM me you address I will send you a No.3 bit which should make your life easier!

If you are talking the Dished type screwdriver straight blade it is a DZUS fastener and Snap Off do one,

Link below

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=6361&group_ID=688&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I have used re-profiled screw drivers….the problem is that there are at least 3 sizes of these heads….I have a set of proper socket ones too…..I wish you luck…..I have removed 2 aircraft’s worth of Harrier panels approx 5% of fasteners had to be drilled out which is even less fun!

Regarding the offset philips type (Phantom, Hawk US etc)….some markets actually include bits those in their multisets (in the little rubbery plastic boxes…)

presuming you mean a ‘Hi Torq’ type screw head,if nobody else finds one for you -i might be able to get hold of one for you.
We used to use a ‘grolly bar’ /sargeant fletcher tool in conjunction with the hi torq bit for the seriously difficult screws.

cheers baz

For what it’s worth, I’d go with Bruce’s suggestion, there ain’t a screwdriver yet that a 4.5″ grinder can’t sharpen! when reshaping the tip, it is important that the sides of the blade are ground square i.e not tapered, and the ends radiused correctly; the real problem with these screws, is that (when rusted) there probably isn’t anything that will move them, and the will have to be drilled out.

Or hollow ground as John (above) has said.

Are you talking about the plunge mill type screws? Have a sort of curved slot?

If so, Grind up a screwdriver; the original tool is not dissimilar.

Bruce

Better, grind up a radius on a screw driver tipped socket as this was the style with a slight hollow ground side. Use it on a brace. I recall they were bl$$dy things in service too.

John

Thanks for all the kindly offers and advice, all welcome!