settings help

none taken so far as it has been very cloudy and when it has cleard at about 11 at night im either going to bed or my brother is in bed meaning i cannot go into my room and get my camera

I didn’t need a Light meter, for my Pinhole Camera, Gary, nor should you with your Brownie 127……………..:D
Jim.
Lincoln .7

I dont have a light meter havent needed one for anything yet and dont feel i will any time soon hahaha so any suggestions with light meters are a bit useless to me

I would like to suggest as a point of learning and this is for everyone taking photos ,HAVE A GO , try doing it manually with the camera.
You will learn more on how things on a camera work and interact with each other,aperture affects shutter speeds,shutter speeds affect aperture,ISO /ASA affects everything, so many ways to skin a cat so to speak.
I was glad i started in a pre digital time with separate hand held meters 🙂

Damn!

I haven’t got a 239,000 mile setting on my focus ring.

Moggy

Yes you do Moggy, it’s that little flat 8 on the ring also known as infinity:D

Damn!

I haven’t got a 239,000 mile setting on my focus ring.

Moggy

hahahahahah

I dont have a light meter havent needed one for anything yet and dont feel i will any time soon hahaha so any suggestions with light meters are a bit useless to me

You don’t need a light meter or a telescope or a spaceship or whatever. The picture you showed wasn’t far off the mark and only showed signs of being cropped severely. Use the lowest ISO you can, stop the lens to its best aperture (usually f8 or F11) and have a go. The beauty of digital is that you can take as many photos as you like.

All of the moon photos I’ve taken are with autofocus – in fact I rarely turn the AF Off.

You MAY want to manually focus as well as it can be thrown out by the brightness.

Damn!

I haven’t got a 239,000 mile setting on my focus ring.

Moggy

I dont have a light meter havent needed one for anything yet and dont feel i will any time soon hahaha so any suggestions with light meters are a bit useless to me

If you want a good photo of the Moon, you will have to get above all the dust, muck and rubbish in the atmosphere, the spectrum of light will be much clearer. Also avoid street /surrounding lighting, Throw away your light meter, you won’t get a true reading of your subject, in this case, the Moon.Unless your in orbit around it.
Jim.
Lincoln .7

Yes, the actual exposure would be a little brighter but when I processed the NEF files I pulled the exposure down about a stop or so to bring out the detail. If you use an evaluative type meter then the moon itself would end up being over-exposed by quite a bit.

Certainly for the night time shots I use spot metering so it ignores the rest anyway. The section of the image that “spot” uses is slightly smaller than the moon in the frame so I guess it exposes just the moon correctly.

The meter just sees a bright light and shuts down to what it thinks is a mid grey which is what you have here, you and I know that the MOON is more a bright white, if you use manual you can get a more accurate pic of the MOON as you see it, I hope you don’t mind my comments, I’m just going off what I was told
by a tutor a long time ago.

Certainly for the night time shots I use spot metering so it ignores the rest anyway. The section of the image that “spot” uses is slightly smaller than the moon in the frame so I guess it exposes just the moon correctly. I think the daytime shots used normal evaluative metering.

moon

M-O-O-N. That spells Moon

Auto I think. Generally the ones with odd apertures will be program mode, the F8 or F11 ones will be with aperture priority

Ah–thats the reason some are dark, the camera is under exposing because of the brightness of the the MOON,:D it happens with snow on auto it can come out grey, like the last shot a lot.
Phil.

M-O-O-N. That spells Moon

Auto I think. Generally the ones with odd apertures will be program mode, the F8 or F11 ones will be with aperture priority

MOON

Derekf were those pics taken on manual settings or auto?

Meanwhile, back at the thread….

Nikon D7000 with Sigma 120-400mm 19th October 2013 1/500 f11 with ISO 200

This is the same shot at full frame. So lots of cropping.

A dusk shot taken on 22nd November 2013 with an Air Canada A330 passing. Nikon D7000 with Sigma 120-400mm 1/160 at F5.6 ISO200. Taken through a window so a bit of ghosting.

A daylight with C-141 passing in front. Taken on 18th Feb 2005 with Nikon D70 and Sigma 170-500mm lens. 1/800 and f6.3 ISO200

Fair enough, Linc, but if you ever feel like sharing the odd morsel in GD, you’d be welcome!!;)

In view of this post I bump my earlier question to you…#4…..you clearly know what you are doing!!

Chas, apart from the forum, I do have a hobby, which involves a lot of photography. Unfortunately, it’s not aircraft related, so would be of little interest to other members. Gary,AKA Trumper knows, but he has been made to sign The Official Lincs Secrets Act………….:D
Jim.
Lincoln .7

You need to get a steady grip and stable base for the lens.Under expose as the light from the moon will bleach out any details.
You MAY want to manually focus as well as it can be thrown out by the brightness.

This is a 400 mm lens ,cropped and hand held 1/400th sec at f6.3 a couple of weeks or so .

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HAHA