The smell of history

Thanks for the responses folks, I think I’ll follow my usual theory better left alone and intact than messed with and in pieces. But I will try and get in touch with a couple of museums and seek some expert advice.

You can’t beat the smell of old workshops and old aircraft for evoking memories but long stored flight kit can have a smell best described as unique 😉

@Brian I have rediscovered my VC10 panel it turns out not to have made it as far as the postie for reasons unknown I’ll get it on it’s way to you shortly.

At Cardiff University there is an archaeology conservation course – I wonder if similar establishments may be interested in a project ?

Get hold of your local (county, say) museum conservator, and discuss it with them, ideally showing them the object. Things like this, with rubber (a conservation nightmare) and other mixes of material are very easy to get a short term ‘improvement’ with from well-meaning but unqualified advice, and permanent damage after.

‘Bunsen’s advice of low-impact cleaning is good, but remember the medical advice “first do no harm”, leave well alone while getting detailed advice might be your wisest move.

The aircraft cleaning I’m involved with uses water and little of it, and very carefully specified products for specialised sub-tasks. When I worked in a UK museum, the conservators were always happy to help, and with phenomenal depth of knowledge.

Hope that helps!

Hi Bunsen,

For the foam/pvc the problem is “plasticiser migration”.

This is the same process that makes pvc cable sheath go brittle with age (or sticky if it is in contact with Styrofoam loft insulation).

Suspect a similar effect happens with vulcanised rubber but it may also be due to UV and atmosphere contamination as well for bladders.

Regards
Ross

I always thought the smell was part of the history. My family don’t agree though.

I have a similar problem. I was told that soap flakes, in warm water and used for a hand wash followed by a warm rinse will do the job but I’d be inclined to test this on a hidden part of the yellow cloth because it can fade badly when washed. Definitely don’t use machine powder, bio or non bio.

You’ll have to dry it very quickly to reduce the level of corrosion that will result from the contact with water. Might also be as well to remove any rubber components to delay them going crispy. I don’t know why but post war bladders go crispy even in good storage conditions. I’ve some 41 and 32 pattern life jacket bladders that are still pliable despite indifferent storage but nearly all the post war examples are either solid or on the way there. Same with “foam rot” in flying helmets, what causes that?