Two part Chipmunk question.

Radarsdesk – the drawings are pure gold! PM sent….

I’m wondering whether a Halfords mixed colour aerosol will do the trick. Anybody tried it?

Anon.

I tried Halfords once. They mixed RAF interior green for me. Colour was spot on and matched the original sample that was to be restored. Minus points from what I recall was that they could only mix small can sizes and strangely the nozelle of the can was harder to work than an off the shelf can. Seemed to leak more often from under the cap of the nozzle.

Saying that for a small job and if you can’t be bothered to get the air gun out a very good and quick option.

Silver and dayglo

It’s an authentic variation on silver and dayglo that we are doing.

I never thought a simple thread like this one would stir up so much information.

Thank’s everyone.

Yes, its the same one we were quoting from earlier. I think its an earlier version of that provided by Dave above.

I’ve got another one that shows the dayglo schemes!

Bruce

Thanks Bruce

John

Paint mixing

My own experiences with getting paint mixed weren’t particularly good.

I went to a “specialist paint supplier” who said, in his adverts, that he could authentically mix any colour. I gave him the BS numbers etc and he tried three times to get it right, and failed.

I even took an item (tail fin) with an original and unfaded flash and he still couldn’t get near it.

I’d be interested to hear of a reliable supplier for aerosol colour.

Incidentally, the Halfords off-the-shelf acrylic colours and primers are superb, with great sticking power and durability, though a tad expensive. For a really accurate 1950’s-era silver use Ford Moondust.

Straight from the can it has a superb colour match with original 50’s silver paint and has the correct semi-gloss sheen. Of course, on a car it would be gloss lacquered but it’s great for models and smaller components.

I’m wondering whether a Halfords mixed colour aerosol will do the trick. Anybody tried it?

Anon.

Yes, its the same one we were quoting from earlier. I think its an earlier version of that provided by Dave above.

I’ve got another one that shows the dayglo schemes!

Bruce

Has anyone got the paint drawing for a silver and yellow RAF aircraft?

Yes (assuming Chipmunk) – Bruce! 🙂

Static Chipmunk cockpit and rear fuselage.:)

I’m pretty sure I’ve got the basics of the scheme but a drawing would be fantastic so that I can finish her off appropriately

John

What sort of silver/yellow aircraft: fabric or alu?

For fabric/wood my favourite is acetone/dope mixed with aluminium powder. Works very well, and easy to remove for repairs. Also very good for UV-protection.

Has anyone got the paint drawing for a silver and yellow RAF aircraft?

Stickers of that size and on fabric would be an even bigger pain!

Stickers would be an even bigger, bigger pain on a rivetted fuselage!

Bruce

Not the cheapest way of sourcing paints but most Halfords now mix paints and put it into a spray can. If you go with the BS number they hold the instructions to mix. A similar and no doubt cheaper service was on eBay last time I looked.

You couldn’t ask for better than the diagram above!

is there a known exact, or very close, off the shelf paint at car shops such as Halfords for Post Office Red BS381C/538 and Roundel Blue BS381C/110 of the post war roundels?
.

Any takers on this?
I know I could mix n match but wondering if anyone here has brought the colours off the shelf?

Chipmunk Drawing C1-G-71

Hi there,

Hope this works!! I have uploaded to Scribd a copy of HS Drawing C1-G-71 titled ‘External Paint Finish and Identification Markings’ for RAF & AAC Chipmunk T Mk10 Aircraft and hopefully it’s embedded here as well.

If you cannot make out any specific details then and you want a full size copy then drop me a line and I can send you one.

Hope that helps

Regards

Dave

C1_G_71

To be honest, I painted the roundels on our J.P. a few years ago, and the masking was a pain, that’s why I was thinking stickers!!

Stickers of that size and on fabric would be an even bigger pain!

Thanks to all.

Hi all

Thanks for all of the help, it has given us much food for thought, re painting or sticker’s. To be honest, I painted the roundels on our J.P. a few years ago, and the masking was a pain, that’s why I was thinking stickers!!

Bruce, those dimensions are just what I needed, just one question, are the dimensions to the center lines of the roundel?

Thank’s again,

Ritch and Max.

and, from Steve’s drawing….

Roundel diameters:

Blue – 18″ diameter, White 12″ diameter, Bright red, 6″ diameter.

Positioned 12″ from the rear of the strap. 15″ from the bottom of the battery bay.

Bruce

I know a good painter

I know a good painter/nose artist who is a dab hand at roundles, letters, camoflauge etc etc that is not too far away from you. If interested PM me and I will pass his details onto you.

Last two shots show the blue area dry and ready to have the outer mask peeled and finally (sorry its a bit blurred!) the final result! I liked this method as it only requires one application of lining tape (on the inner edge of the outer yellow ring) which is good as its not a lot of fun doing this on under-wing roundels.

Hope this offers an insight – but as I said earlier there are other ways of achieving the same result.

Everyone who has done this tends to come up with their own method (and sometimes tries new ones!). Here is how I did some Type III ‘s recently, this time using vinyl masks which give a beatiful crisp and prefectly curved edge – sorry I do not have the entire process covered but it gives you the basic idea. There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to do this…..

In this particular sequence – the 2″ wide outer yellow ring was sprayed first using a vinyl mask. This was then roughly covered with tape and paper and an area of white sprayed in the general area of the inner white ring. At this point I left it to harden for 24 hours (was using a 2-pack polyurethene paint on this job). A pre-cut vinyl mask was then applied over the 2″ wide white ring – thats the light blue ring in the picture. This provides a perfect edge for the blue and red areas.

Second picture shows the yellow ring having been carefully reverse masked with lining tape (dark blue 3M vinyl stuff in this case as it gives a really clean edge). Despite using pre-cut masks you do have to apply one lining tape line with this method. At this point I had also sprayed the centre red area (having completely masked out the area that will later be sprayed blue and then, once that was dry, carefully pulled back the masking paper to completely cover the red area in a ‘cone’ ready to receive the blue.

Third picture – blue sprayed on – just waiting for it to dry to remove the centre paper cone to reveal the previously painted red.

Fourth picture – this is what you get at that point! You now have the satsifying task of pulling off the white ring mask to reveal the white are below (fifth picture)!