Vinyl Nose Art

The correct colours for the Hunter topsides would be, as Bruce says, British Standard BS381C gloss Dark Sea Grey 638, and gloss Dark Green 641 (new 241).
The undersides up to around 1966 were Aluminium (often called ‘High Speed Silver’) which doesn’t have a BS381C equivalent. After 1966 the undersides became BS381C gloss Light Aircraft Grey 627, because the metallic Aluminium was no longer available when the paint type was switched from cellulose to polyurethane.
Thanks to other forum members, I can now vouch that Ford Moondust Silver (with a coat of clear lacquer) is a good modern substitute for the old cellulose gloss ‘Aluminium’.
From around 1970 the Hunter paint scheme slowly changed from gloss to matt, and white was dropped from the roundels and fin flash.
Another point to note that, say, gloss Dark Sea Grey, isn’t the same shade as matt Dark Sea Grey which has had a coat of gloss lacquer!

The correct colours for the Hunter topsides would be, as Bruce says, British Standard BS381C gloss Dark Sea Grey 638, and gloss Dark Green 641 (new 241).
The undersides up to around 1966 were Aluminium (often called ‘High Speed Silver’) which doesn’t have a BS381C equivalent. After 1966 the undersides became BS381C gloss Light Aircraft Grey 627, because the metallic Aluminium was no longer available when the paint type was switched from cellulose to polyurethane.
Thanks to other forum members, I can now vouch that Ford Moondust Silver (with a coat of clear lacquer) is a good modern substitute for the old cellulose gloss ‘Aluminium’.
From around 1970 the Hunter paint scheme slowly changed from gloss to matt, and white was dropped from the roundels and fin flash.
Another point to note that, say, gloss Dark Sea Grey, isn’t the same shade as matt Dark Sea Grey which has had a coat of gloss lacquer!

Quite – However, in that case, some serious research is required to get paint that will work, and will last. There seems to be a perception in some quarters that paint is paint (if you see what I mean!!). Many aircraft are painted with rollers in service; its just a question of using the right product for the job.

Bruce

Quite – However, in that case, some serious research is required to get paint that will work, and will last. There seems to be a perception in some quarters that paint is paint (if you see what I mean!!). Many aircraft are painted with rollers in service; its just a question of using the right product for the job.

Bruce

Agree Bruce- the issue is not the paint colour – it is an air museum getting a group of enthusiasts to paint a Vulcan etc in the open air – which usually means emulsion paint. The issue then is getting Dulux/Crown to match a BS381 C to a living room paint..

Agree Bruce- the issue is not the paint colour – it is an air museum getting a group of enthusiasts to paint a Vulcan etc in the open air – which usually means emulsion paint. The issue then is getting Dulux/Crown to match a BS381 C to a living room paint..

Ken,

Believe me, it is really, really easy to get the correct colours. Its less easy to get a paint one can use on a semi or non professional basis, especially with the demise of cellulose.

However there are places that will still mix cellulose paint, and most work to BS381C if asked, so it really is not the big deal we so often hear about.

Heck, if anyone wants paint to the right colours, I’ll supply it for them!

What often isnt so simple is that people cant or wont work with professional spray gear, which is a different issue entirely!

Bruce

Ken,

Believe me, it is really, really easy to get the correct colours. Its less easy to get a paint one can use on a semi or non professional basis, especially with the demise of cellulose.

However there are places that will still mix cellulose paint, and most work to BS381C if asked, so it really is not the big deal we so often hear about.

Heck, if anyone wants paint to the right colours, I’ll supply it for them!

What often isnt so simple is that people cant or wont work with professional spray gear, which is a different issue entirely!

Bruce

More and more aircraft use vinyl stencilling. In the Belgian AF, it is used on Marchetti, Alpha jet, Seaking, Agusta, even F-16! Like those special F-16 tails? It’s just one big decal these days wrapped around the tail!

More and more aircraft use vinyl stencilling. In the Belgian AF, it is used on Marchetti, Alpha jet, Seaking, Agusta, even F-16! Like those special F-16 tails? It’s just one big decal these days wrapped around the tail!

It isnt hard to get the correct match paint either!
Bruce

Not according to our guide at the Midland Air Museum

He told us of the trouble he had matching – and then obtaining – the paints to restore this Hunter F.6.

Working on a shoestring to paint it as accurately as possible can’t be easy – so hats off to all those volunteers who manage it.

Ken

It isnt hard to get the correct match paint either!
Bruce

Not according to our guide at the Midland Air Museum

He told us of the trouble he had matching – and then obtaining – the paints to restore this Hunter F.6.

Working on a shoestring to paint it as accurately as possible can’t be easy – so hats off to all those volunteers who manage it.

Ken

[COLOR=”Blue”]I’ve noticed that with WT660’s original decals, the area of the water-slide transfers is easily discernable from the aluminium paint underneath. I presumed that age had discoloured the shellac or whatever they were made from, having gone a darker golden colour, but I seem to remember Airfix kit transfers in the 1960s were similarly discoloured from new!

In modelling parlance it’s called yellowing. The old carrier films for decals were basically ordinary clear varnish which yellows over time. Nowadays the carrier films are acrylics and are pretty much non yellowing. To get rid of yellowing on a decal sheet simply tape the decal to the inside of a window that faces the sun and leave for a couple of days – that bleaches the yellow out.

[COLOR=”Blue”]I’ve noticed that with WT660’s original decals, the area of the water-slide transfers is easily discernable from the aluminium paint underneath. I presumed that age had discoloured the shellac or whatever they were made from, having gone a darker golden colour, but I seem to remember Airfix kit transfers in the 1960s were similarly discoloured from new!

In modelling parlance it’s called yellowing. The old carrier films for decals were basically ordinary clear varnish which yellows over time. Nowadays the carrier films are acrylics and are pretty much non yellowing. To get rid of yellowing on a decal sheet simply tape the decal to the inside of a window that faces the sun and leave for a couple of days – that bleaches the yellow out.

Baz, ex RAF ejection decals often appear on evil bay, used to have one on the bog cistern, though they were acquired in the RAF…..

Baz, ex RAF ejection decals often appear on evil bay, used to have one on the bog cistern, though they were acquired in the RAF…..

The best way to use Vinyl is as a ‘negative’. Discard the bit you would usually use – and keep the rest of it as a spray through. You can do this for stencil fonts, or conventional ones. You just need to get the vinyl on, painted through and off as quickly as possible. Gets rid of overspray too if you are careful.

As regards bigger markings such as roundels and serial numbers; it is incredibly simple to do, with a ruler and a compass made out of an old broom handle. It isnt hard to get the correct match paint either!

Bruce

The best way to use Vinyl is as a ‘negative’. Discard the bit you would usually use – and keep the rest of it as a spray through. You can do this for stencil fonts, or conventional ones. You just need to get the vinyl on, painted through and off as quickly as possible. Gets rid of overspray too if you are careful.

As regards bigger markings such as roundels and serial numbers; it is incredibly simple to do, with a ruler and a compass made out of an old broom handle. It isnt hard to get the correct match paint either!

Bruce

rant away lol but how much does a few small tins of paint, a couple of brushes and a little bit of artistic skill cost?, especially if its offered for free..

i understand and appreciate the costs involved in restoring and operating any type of aircraft or vehicle. sometimes though they are overdone where everything is as sharp as a pin and nothing like how they come out of the factory but its down to the personal choice of the owner that takes pride in the machine.

on the other hand a run around on a rare 1958 Matchless 600cc CS motorcycle, its not mint but it turns heads where ever it goes. its not restored to original colours but then its not there to represent a specific machine or time period in front of thousands of people each year

rant away lol but how much does a few small tins of paint, a couple of brushes and a little bit of artistic skill cost?, especially if its offered for free..

i understand and appreciate the costs involved in restoring and operating any type of aircraft or vehicle. sometimes though they are overdone where everything is as sharp as a pin and nothing like how they come out of the factory but its down to the personal choice of the owner that takes pride in the machine.

on the other hand a run around on a rare 1958 Matchless 600cc CS motorcycle, its not mint but it turns heads where ever it goes. its not restored to original colours but then its not there to represent a specific machine or time period in front of thousands of people each year