dark light

  • Barnowl

Weathering

I make models- not very good ones, mind you, but recently I think i have graduated from simply painting them and being happy with them. I really want to apply some weathering effects. Now I know that there are entire books on the subject, but I want everyone to use this for the discussion of how to accuratly weather model aircraft. (Hopefully I can nick some knowledge and make post the results of my efforts)

Well… over to you

BARNOWL

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

146

Send private message

By: optimator11 - 11th December 2005 at 16:26

I like to airbrush a mix of gray wash thinned so much that the first coat is hardly noticable. Study the photos of your subject and weather those areas that are faded and dirty. The best models of German WW-2 aircraft I’ve seen tend to show weathering and fading but always leave the white areas, spinners, numbers, crosses, as pure white as the day they left the factory.

For scratches I like to use a metallic base and while the main coat of paint is still drying take a sharp scalpal (#11 blade) and start gently scratching. Time consuming, but injoyable.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

1,083

Send private message

By: XN923 - 21st November 2005 at 08:32

See http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html

The stuff on washes is pretty good. Try Tamiya ‘smoke’ acrylic paint, thinned and brushed on then dabbed off with kitchen towel. The trick is to emphasise the panel lines without making the model look like someone’s smeared oil all over it.

Really, it’s all about experience, but it frustrates me when the modelling magazines blithley say ‘I then weathered the exterior’ without giving frustrated novices any idea how they achieved the fantastically lifelike exhaust stains, paint chips and so on.

One tip I have heard but not yet tried is to use pastels – grind conte crayons (apparently it has to be conte) into powder and brush on. You can then brush as much as you want back off again depending on how dirty you want the model to be, then seal with a coat of Johnson’s ‘Klear’ floor polish.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

1,410

Send private message

By: 21Ankush - 7th November 2005 at 22:20

I used a mixture of pencil lead, with water and a drop of dishcleaner..and then liberally applied it to bring out the panel lines..the good part is that, with a damp kleenex, and with the direction of the cleaning being in the direction of the airflow, one can easily create the effect of soot on an aircraft..and one thing that you see most on aircraft is soot, apart from other discolorations.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

1

Send private message

By: use the rudders - 7th November 2005 at 16:12

Here’s everything you need to know.very good site this.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

3,018

Send private message

By: laviticus - 29th October 2005 at 17:51

Dose anyone know how to reproduce the effect of dented body work, on say on a fuselage.Its for a diorama i have planned.
dave

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

20,613

Send private message

By: DazDaMan - 28th October 2005 at 17:30

Something I’ve not really noticed on some models is the RE-application of paint in certain areas. Even with a spot of cordite or exhaust blow-back, they still look factory fresh!

There’s a famous shot of a Spitfire VB that’s been retouched with paint at various times – that’d be great (but hard, I imagine) to achieve.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

2,541

Send private message

By: Rlangham - 28th October 2005 at 17:23

Pencil lead looks pretty good for scratches etc, as long as you don’t overdo it

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

20,613

Send private message

By: DazDaMan - 28th October 2005 at 17:12

Hmm… my personal method for weathering models is to simply dip the end of the brush into my “dirty” paints (brown or black for dirt, silver for metal) and simply dab it on where I want, then wipe it off. Repeat it two or three times and it can be pretty good.

My Battle of Britain Spitfire VB is an example of it – especially the undersides.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

2,324

Send private message

By: ollieholmes - 28th October 2005 at 01:14

I prefer drybrushing or light stippling.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

239

Send private message

By: Andy Mac - 27th October 2005 at 20:06

The best advice is : a little is a lot . . .very subtle weathering is most effective! I dry-brush a lot, a little enamel on the end of the brush and gentle brush strokes.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

2,324

Send private message

By: ollieholmes - 27th October 2005 at 19:09

i personaly have never seen them over weatherd. i have seen in badly done but never to much. i have seen pictures of ww11 planes realy desperatly in need of a repaint.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

4,074

Send private message

By: Arm Waver - 27th October 2005 at 13:41

Do you find though some people over weather and “scuff” their models?

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

3,053

Send private message

By: barrythemod - 27th October 2005 at 12:33

When “weathering” a paint job,prime the surface,then paint/spray the colour you finally want to see.Then paint/overspray “top” colours,and,when dry, useing fine wet and dry,rub back to get the effect you want.This takes a lot of practice,so get used to it on “scrap” first 😉 Also takes planning,to take in different effects for different parts of the model.

Member for:

19 years 1 month

Posts:

4,074

Send private message

By: Arm Waver - 27th October 2005 at 11:45

When I’ve tried it I’ve dry brushed exhaust stains but I tend not to do it too often.

Sign in to post a reply