Is there a simple guide available that a novice can follow. I will eventually be painting wooden parts and new aluminium and am confused about what types of paint are compatible. I dont want to spoil my work by paint not adhering or finding that different types produce bubbling. As a complete novice I would prefer to brush paint if possible. The item I am working on is in my garage and I can get plenty ventilation but dont want to build a paint tent in such a confined space. I will also wish to paint at least primer as my work progresses so that I can reach parts that will eventually be hidden
My intention is to do the following
Clean all dust etc from surfaces.
Clean the metal surfaces to remove finger marks using Cleaning Solvent.
Paint with zinc chromate. I will be doing this in stages and it has been suggested to me that 2 pack etch primers need to overcoated soon after they dry which may not be practical. However etch primer seems to be cheaper and perhaps less dangerous!!
Sand fill prime and clean again as required.
Cellulose to be use as a top coat all the above from LAS Aerospace
Any thoughts on coverage so I can calculate what to purchase.
Some markings and stencils to be added. I will need matt to match the top coat but not large quantities and need to match colours exactly. Many years ago Humbrol used to produce tins bigger than 12ml. I see currently they supply acrilyc and enamel so will they work over zinc chromate or cellulose.
By: ZRX61 - 23rd May 2009 at 23:34
Might be worth hitting up the local autobody repair places & see if they will rent you some paintbooth time after hours or over a weekend…
By: Robert Whitton - 23rd May 2009 at 22:20
*warmth* is your friend when you start spraying.
Many thanks for the guidance. Living in “sunny” Scotland we havn’t had any warm days yet this year!!
By: ZRX61 - 23rd May 2009 at 22:06
Can you suggest alternatives that are not toxic and can be obtained in appropriate matt colours?
All the good stuff is toxic, but you can get away with using a respirator with good filters. They have a limit to how long the filters can be used to full effect once they are out of the bag tho, 8 hours is about the limit.. & wear a tyvek suit so your clothes don’t get saturated with the inherent nastiness.. & gloves.
PPG has an aviation paint line. The *old* DuPont Imron is still available & another line is Alumigrip which is used on refinishing the likes of Lears & Gulfstreams etc (& the former TFC Tigercat). I’m not sure what they sell in the UK these days.. & I should know because my step brother has a paint factory in Eastleigh (Akron Paint) that supplies Ford among others.
Another alternative to etch primer is epoxy. The great thing about expoxy primer is that is sticks to anything & everything sticks to it. The PPG DPLF line is excellent & is available is 6 colours: black, white, beige, blue, blue/green & “red lead” (altho it doesn’t contain any lead, the LF part of the name means Lead Free)
You’l need some tackrags to sort out the dust after you wipe down the bear metal with laquer thinner. They do make “wax & grease remover” to clean the metal, but laquer thinner is cheaper.
Most coatings have a *recoat* window. I usually do the epoxy one day & the rest the next.
& *warmth* is your friend when you start spraying.
When you have the paint mixed just tell them you want it flat/matt finish & they will put an additive in that causes the gloss to go away.
By: TwinOtter23 - 23rd May 2009 at 21:21
That’s a shame Robert; I was only teasing but it all sounds intriguing and I look forward to ‘more details’ in due course. Good luck with it! 😀
By: Robert Whitton - 23rd May 2009 at 21:16
:diablo: Robert it seems churlish not to ask; will it be at Co****t**st?
No it wont be this year as
a) won’t be finished (Plan is external completion of phase I end of year, interior cockpit finished – unknown, tail – sometime in future also see c) below
b) its a long way just to drive
c) I dont have a vehicle that could tow it or a trailer —- good planning :diablo:
Plan to release a photo on a significant date in October if possible.
By: TwinOtter23 - 23rd May 2009 at 21:07
:diablo: Robert it seems churlish not to ask; will it be at Co****t**st?
By: Robert Whitton - 23rd May 2009 at 19:14
The problem with cellulose is thats it’s basically crap. It’s very brittle so chips easily & it never *cures* so 30 years from now you could still wipe the paint off with a rag soaked in laquer thinner.
Can you suggest alternatives that are not toxic and can be obtained in appropriate matt colours?
By: ZRX61 - 23rd May 2009 at 17:26
Cellulose to be use as a top coat
The problem with cellulose is thats it’s basically crap. It’s very brittle so chips easily & it never *cures* so 30 years from now you could still wipe the paint off with a rag soaked in laquer thinner.
One of the best (etch) primers for metal is DuPont Vari-Prime… but it’s not good stuff to breathe, which is why it’s known as “yellow death” by people who have used it;)
By: Robert Whitton - 23rd May 2009 at 16:43
Robert, you can get a product called “super-etch” which is an etch primer and filler primer all in one; I’ve used this on a composite wood-alloy restoration and it works well, it is single pack, but with an activator, but not a hardener, and not isocyanate.
Thanks. I see its made about 10 miles from me!!
By: stuart gowans - 23rd May 2009 at 13:47
Robert, you can get a product called “super-etch” which is an etch primer and filler primer all in one; I’ve used this on a composite wood-alloy restoration and it works well, it is single pack, but with an activator, but not a hardener, and not isocyanate.
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May 23, 2009 at 9:35 am