wieesso
Thanks – the first one was one of the photos I remember, but there was also one of the “banana” aircraft with the door still “attached”!! I was in Downsview in 1975 doing a Twin Otter Mx course so it might have been a personal photo of one of the instructors.
At least the old girl got a lot of different flying – bet she could tell a tale or two!!
Truc
I remember seeing a photo of the DHC Turbo Beaver crushed by the hangar door a long time ago!! – I don’t seem to be able to find it on the Tinternet – so must have been in one of my books.
Here is a link to the same aircraft
Truc
grizzly
Thanks for the link – nice to see some photos from the maintenance side of things!
Truc
When I worked in YVR I would occasionally pop in to have a look at HML.
I did up a couple of computer generated images of what she might have looked like in her days at Spartan.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]223046[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]223047[/ATTACH]
Enjoy
Truc
I use this for the last case study when I teach Human Factors for Aircraft Maintenance!!
There are so many lessons to learn from it and I hope by doing so I am paying a bit back to
the guy who worked himself to death.
Very sad outcome – both for the AMT and a rare aircraft!!
Truc
This aircraft was the first of 2 aircraft that suffered tail failure due to air loads produced with an engine out.
The second one I believe gave up the reason upon examination.
The Mk31 and after models with the larger engines had a different dorsal fin and the addition of an interconnect mechanism for the aileron and elevator control. This was to prevent “cross control – and side slipping the aircraft. If you put full rudder input you could not get the corresponding direction of aileron. If you put in full aileron you could not get corresponding rudder input. It was a weird system but I guess it fixed that issue.
I posted the diagram in this link http://forum.keypublishing.com/showthread.php?81252-WAS-CF-QWJ-Ex-G-AMLP-The-Last-Long-Nose-Bristol-Freighter-Flying
I had no idea I had a submarine named after me!!!!:eagerness:
Truc
Guys
I think you have the wrong Buffalo Airways. The Canadian one never operated 707s – but these guys did.
http://www.aerotransport.org/php/go.php?query=operator&qstring=Buffalo+Airways&where=59793&luck=
Hope that helps,
Truc
On a broader base – here is a listing for probably all the P&W radial engines.
Truc
Wow!!!!!
Almost perfect formation – last one playing catch-up??
Composition is “Lightning” perfect – and could I inquire as to what aircraft was your camera mount???
Regards,
Truc
l.garey
If you don’t have a lot to do and don’t want to invest in another scanner here is a work-around that has worked for me.
Scan your negative in 35 mm chunks with overlaps – just like doing a multiple shot panorama with the camera and then stitch them back together again with a stitching program.
Quick and easy FREE one is from Microsoft and is call ICE – Image Composite Editor. Link below.
http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ice/
There are other programs out there including Photoshop etc. that will do the same thing. ICE works fast and is free so I have no problem with recommending it.
Another way around requires a light-box – you put the negative on the light-box and photograph it with your digital camera – and run it through a program that accepts the image as a negative and process. I have done this with a program called “Vue Scan” – you have to pay for it but it is reasonable and it works with a variety of different scanners.
If you have more than just a few then you will need to get a scanner capable of the size you need.
I shoot up to ULF – Ultra Large Format film cameras – I have to develop my own black and white negatives – 10 inch x 12 inch size. I have 2 scanners that will take those size negatives – an Agfa Duoscan T2000XL – and a Microtek Scanmaker E6 with full size light lid. The Duoscan has the best resolution and tray system that makes it easy for me to scan 35mm, 120, 4 x 5, 8 x 10, and 10 x 12. It’s a huge commercial system – cost about $9000.00 new – a whole lot less on the flea-bay place if you can find one close – shipping will not be inexpensive as it is very heavy.
Both of these require SCSI drives so can’t be easily used with modern computers – Ms XP Pro is what I use to drive them.
These do what I want, so have no idea as to what might be available in more modern scanners.
If I really need to get detail from a negative I will very often print it – I can enlarge up to 6 x 6 cm black and white – so can crop to size and then print an 8 x 10 photo that I can then scan with an ordinary reflective scanner. Surprising how much detail comes out when you optically enlarge and print using the old fashioned wet process. Of course this is not for everybody.
For color negatives I sometimes send them in and have them enlarged like the black and white ones above. Just make sure you get a shop that will print with sufficient resolution for you to get a decent scan. The standard resolution for color is 150 dpi – which means that if you try to scan the print at a higher resolution than printed it doesn’t get any better. Most ordinary shops can only do the low resolution print format so you might have to find a better shop. Better still if you can find a shop that will do it with the enlarger and wet process – but they are getting really hard to find now.
Hope this helps a bit.
Truc
Tony
Quick and dirty explanation here http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/Digital-Workflow.aspx
More technical stuff for Canon here http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/canon_raw.html
Best free raw editor IMHO – http://www.rawtherapee.com/
Best layman description for difference between Raw processing and JPEG I have heard is:
JPEG is like a cake mix – it works pretty much all of the time and gives you something tasty.
Raw is like building from scratch with the finest ingredients that can be had. Takes more work, knowledge, and finesse – but the end result can be simply divine!!
FWIW – cameras capture in raw and then if selected, convert to JPEG etc. So your raw file has every bit of information your camera was able to capture. Like most things, something gets lost in the translation from one format to another.
Using raw doesn’t allow you to forget about all that other camera stuff – like white balance and exposure. I once shot an entire airshow with the white balance selected to “Tungsten”. I had been doing some indoor photos under shop lighting and had forgot to select it back to sunshine. Made for a lovely blue white balance (that was pretty easy to correct on my raw files, but almost impossible to do so with my normal JPEG editor). Hint here for free — if that ever happens to you – change the image color temperature upwards to get rid of most of the blue cast!!!
Regards,
Truc
PS – I use rawtherapee for almost all my initial photo workflow process and then sometimes polish the image using a variety of different programs.
If you print, you need to get your computer monitor calibrated so that what you see on your monitor is what colors you want in the print. If you don’t then see if you can get a look while at the printers of what they have on their monitor. It makes a difference!!
XH668
I use one that has the spring loaded rod to a belt pocket – it really helps with the heavier lenses to reduce the arm strain.
Bought mine from the “bay” place – actually bought 2 as the first one was a cheapie but gave me enough time to decide I wanted to buy a better one.
Cheapie works if you don’t need to do a lot of shooting but like everything the build quality and better ergonomics of the better one are worth the investment.
My .02 worth.
Truc
Pagen01
I presume you have seen these??
http://www.enginehistory.org/Propellers/Rotol/rotol.shtml
Second Link with some info???
http://www.skyfield.demon.co.uk/page.7.html
Truc
Pagen01
I presume you have seen these??
http://www.enginehistory.org/Propellers/Rotol/rotol.shtml
Second Link with some info???
http://www.skyfield.demon.co.uk/page.7.html
Truc