Gerry very unsatisfactory I would have expected a better result than this.
When I have seen similar issues it was because the contact to the piece of metal was not good. I saw this as low watts transfer. For the Sherman track end. When I originally put it in – It was pulling 9V and 1A. When I made a better contact it pulled 3A at 5V and worked perfectly.
fingers crossed!
Gerry please feel under no pressure from me and try what you are most comfortable with.
I have tried multiple ways – this one works for me but I do like to fiddle and try different things. I just wanted to communicate the option to anyone who has not tried it.
FYI I use a bench power supply that I use for electronics. I use a plastic bucket filled with tap water that I have stirred a small amount of caustic soda into ( just to improve electrolysis) less than 50g for 5 litres of solution.
I have a steel plate that fits into the bucket so that it does not touch the item – attach the two leads making sure there is good contact on both.
I then set the volts to ca. 5V and if there is a good contact – the amps pulled is ca. 3 and there is bubbling across the item.
I leave for 5 or 6 hours and then wipe off the surface – dry it and add kurust to stop it reoxidising. Paint etc. as needed.
Obviously no use for aluminium parts as the caustic would eat it.
All german vehicles had either steel fittings or foot pedals. None I can find had levers like this for speed (not even for aggressive windscreen wipers).
Most likely candidates (from a design) are the late 30’s trainers/recons with multiple levers and gashebel on the cockpit sides.
Thanks Soggy _ I am open to all suggestions – but it doesn’t match with any of the usual German vehicle culprits that I have checked so far and it is lightweight alloy not steel.
I did have a look at powered turrets but again nothing obvious.
For information it is not rocket science:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/79805.html?1233046988
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
Just two main safety rules – dont use stainless steel for the sacrificial anode and dont use salt for the conductive solution.
I have tried Deox C and it works – But too slowly even using hot water and concentrated solutions and often requires repeat application. I have stopped using it!
I have tried conc hydrochloric acid; wire brushing, wet and dry, wire wool etc etc..
The electrolytic process works better than any of them on the materials I have applied it to – mainly dug up steel items with 70 years underground.
Maybe i am too impatient and too mean – the electro process is faster and cheaper.
Follow up by rustkure ( other products are available) and then paint.
Gerry, I have been reverting to electrolytic derusting of steel parts and I have had very good success with it.
I use a bench power supply, a bucket of water with some caustic soda in it and a steel plate.
Last Saturday I cleaned a Sherman track end in this way – 6 hours with 3amps at 5V and all the rust was gone.
I was looking for one a few years ago and spoke to many people about them – on quality it came down to two companies Eastmann and the Flying Jacket company at Thruxton.
Due to an unsatisfactory call to Eastmann I purchased from Thruxton and have been back twice since then for other jackets. I went to the site and tried them on to find the right size. Very friendly and helpful. Also bought one mail order for my son.
The wool thickness on the flying jacket is plusher than standard. The design is the post 41 with multiple panels etc. etc.
Blue 2 you seem to be under the misapprehension that they are Meteor U/C doors when it is clear to me that they are office cabinet doors.
I only have to look 1m to my right to confirm the error in your identification.
Perhaps you can do something similar with the discarded one.
I went to the Lambeth photo collection 10 years ago.
At the end of it I had to order the images -and pay for them which they sent on a few weeks later.
Very helpful place.
I am sure I have posted pics of the stalls before – found and added some more…
Last trip was in 2013 with Mrs FA and junior FA.
Both throughly enjoyed the museum. The aeroboot was a bit of a disappointment compared to the previous years i have been – with little new materials and a few of the regular stall holders not attending. This was my 6th or 7th attendance and I have not been back since.
Certainly better in the new hall compared to the old one.
Pictures of Stamps.
Elliott, as you know, I have many different parts that pass through my hands.
Where possible i have photographed the part numbers and inspectors stamp.
I have started the task of putting these images online to assist people who are checking identity.
As fonts for part numbers as well as styles of inspector stamps vary – I hoped that images would be of interest to searchers.
I started this roughly a month or so ago and need to go back and both add to it and correct spelling ( sorry).
I hope that the mods see this as assisting rather than advertising.
The section of cowl from MF113 that I have was night black on the lower surface.
One on eBay last week!
seems to have gone but there is this one