Not eBay, Denham’s (my local).

Lot 223 is probably aircraft, 202, 2209 and 212 might be ac related?

http://www.denhams.com/auction-catalogue/antique/?page=175&

Surlaw. It looked like it might fly faster backwards?

I use SP Systems stuff these days. SP106 is very thin when mixed, and ideal for metal-metal like that. Add colloidal fibres (for strong bond) or microballons (as a lightweight and easily abraded filler) to thicken for various purposes.

I don’t know JB Weld, but Araldite 24 hour is ok, although I’ve never mixed it with fillers or rubbed it down.

Reading the first post again, I see that I missed something.

High build primer is probably what was being suggested. All decent motor factors stock it, and it is good for pinholes, but not for the sort of pitting that I think you may have on your wheels.

I’d second the epoxy advice, but mix it with micro balloons for easy sanding. But that’s because I’ve got big pots of it here, with pumps etc.. I can’t see any good reason not to use Isopon P38. It doesn’t need anything special to prime it, just use the primer you’d use anyway. If you have pinholes in the metal or the cured filler, high build primer is the answer. Very easy to rub down.

Lastly, I have no idea whether the wheels were originally painted. Anodising or lacquer would protect the metal However, after filling the corroded bits, paint is the only option so I’d try and get my eyes on an original wheel and trust them to match the colour to the car wheel colour.

As a die hard sailor I know that the UK’s harbours offer a far far greater opportunity than GA airfields.

If I squint, I can make the hills in the background look like http://wingsmuseum.co.uk/images/Redhill1939%20Maggies_Battle.jpg Redhill 1939.

One tree missing in the later pic, house vaguely visible in the earlier.