Thank you for responding 🙂 Great Piccies by the way 😀
Cheers – did you go to Breighton?
lol! Was it still raining when they displayed?
Yes – it started again as they took off.
What time did they display exactly?
they took off at 3.25 pm according to my camera – (which got very wet but seems to have dried out okay!)
The Mustang and Hurricane stayed at Breighton and gave a display later in the afternoon.
Typical – just having a 5 minute snooze and I miss the Seafire flypast!
Will have to dig some of my Auster pics and get them scaned in!
Please do – I would love to see them.
I have the 500 Sqn one – AA35001 the box photo shown below matches the model (not always the case with Corgi) so it looks like Corgi’s website is wrong.
The only thing wrong with the Airfix boxart is the overall colour, which should be ORANGE and not yellow! This error was perpetauted when the real WE600 was repainted yellow in the ’60s and appeared at Abingdon in 1968 for the 50th Anniversary of the RAF celebrations in this colour. Thankfully, they realised their error and it is now at Cosford correctlt reapinted orange.
Thanks Albert. I will make sure I paint mine orange when I get around to making it.
I can see them fine on my computers (with firefox and ie). Nice set of photos Gareth.
Looking too wet for warbirds… still, see you there!
Yes it was wet to start with but improved . I’ve put a few photos and a short video on the web here if anyone is interested. I switched to film later in the day so there are just a few shots – mainly static.
According to G-INFO it is still about. Click on this link:
Thanks. I hope it is still about and flying.
I have one of the Airfix Auster Antarctic kits that I bought when they recently re-released it (stll in the “to build” pile though). I don’t know how accurate the box art is.
My first flight was in an Auster in the 70’s at Skegness. G-APKN – does anyone know the status of this Auster – I seem to recall it was damaged a while back.
So….. What?.. How does one use it? Just screw it on, point and shoot? – Or do I have to do some heavy mathematics to calculate just how much this, and how little that, I need after waving some light intensity measuring device around for a while?
You just screw it on to the end of the plastic adapter ring that comes with the S5000 (this has a 55mm filter thread at the end) and the camera takes care of the the adjustments to exposure – you use the same neutral density filters that are for 35mm film lenses – they come in various ratings depending on how much light they stop getting through – basically it is just like covering the lens with your sunglasses. The higher the rating the less light they let through – there is a good web page here that explains it all. A mid strength one that reduces the exposure by a couple of stops (see the table on the above link)would be a good starting point. As it is only the intensity of the light that is altered the camera metering system makes all the adjustments so you don’t have to manually calculate and adjust the settings (you do with graduated ND filters – used a lot in landscape photography but these are not what you want).
Does it affect the shutter response time any? Which is pretty sluggish at the best of times. 🙁
Shutter lag can be a problem on the S5000 (please pilots – can you do a very slow pass for S5000 users!) but these filters will have no effect on that for aircraft photos on the bright days that require their use.
I don’t mind setting the speed and leaving the rest to auto, but I don’t want to do much more than that!
This is why these filters are ideal – just set the speed to blurr the props – 1/250 or so and the camera can do the rest – you will have noticed on bright days that if you use this shutter speed the camera gives the over exposure warning as it cannot set an appropriate aperture (the range offered by the S5000 is not as good as that on film or digital slrs) – the ND filter will reduce the amount of light entering the lens and enable the camera to pick a correct exposure with the range of settings it can offer.
One of the advantages I find with the S5000 is the ability to take the screw-in filters of a size that is relatively easy to find as it is often used on 35mm lenses – most camera shops seem to have a good supply of second hand filters for a couple of pounds – it is worth looking for a circular polarising filter also – as well as the specific features of the filter (eg reducing unwanted reflections) they also reduce the amount of light entering the lens (usually by about 2-2.5 stops) and I have used mine on occasions when I’ve left my ND filters at home and needed to obtain a low shutter speed.
mmm I’ve hard about these ND filters before – how do you use one? Oh, and where can I get one to fit mine?
Just get one to screw into the filter thread on the S5000 (55mm diameter a pretty common size for 35mm lenses so pretty easy to find) – I get most of my filters from either Ebay or second hand from Camera shops these days. Neutral Density (ND) filters just cut down the amount of light entering the lens and therefore enable a slower shutter speed. As you will have found on sunny days you tend to end up with a higher shutter speed than required due to the minimum aperture being quite large and the lowest iso value being 160 (on auto) or 200 with other settings.
Does anyone know of a safe method to clean dirt etc off of negs and slides?
I used a product called Aspec on some old and badly marked slides- it did a good job – you can get it online from 7dayshop