Sorry , But I am yet to see any credible source on the advancement of the Song class, Just because Chinese have developed this sub in the early 90’s dosent make it equal to Type-209 , Only the newer Yaun class appear to get closer to T-209 , Because of the technology learnt by Chinese from the Kilo-636.

As I stated before some sub might be of old generation some sub may be of new , But these three are roughly in the same class , With the latter generation Foxtrot comparable to the Chinese Song.

It is a least a generation ahead of the type 206 or the WWII era foxtrot.

AFAIK the sub is fitted with submerged launched ASM (YJ-82) surpassing that of the foxtrot and the type – 206 .

The sub is also fitted with an asymmetrical seven-blade skewed propeller which is not on either foxtrot or type – 206 .

The sonar suit is composed of a medium frequency bow mounted
of french origin and a flanked array low frequency sonar for passive search.

C&C is an indigenous automated combat data system capable of multiple targets tracking. It cau also be used as surveillance and navigation.

FYI the songs are still in production as the Yaun class has only entered testing phase and thus close to nothing is known about them.

Quite alot of programs that work with PSD but most cost major $$$

Your safest choice would be Macromedia Freehand that cost around $120-150
There’s also Coral Draw for ~ $100

Adobe photo elements is only ~$100
(if you don’t do pro editing and layered effects)

*** Edited Frank ***

There’s almost no difference Between Photoshop 7 and CS. Aside from the wacky auto colour change and the patch tool which I doubt you’d likely be using…

Or you can go and buy a digi camera for ~ $300
Most come in packages including image editing software that works with psd format…

Is that the Flap Lid B radar on the Back of 051C under the tarp???

If you only consider putting them on the web then the standard resolution would be only 72dpi for 8*10 inch. That calculates to roughly 165 dpi for 5*7 inch.

If you are considering printing or having these pictures blown up them I would suggest scanning at the highest resolution of your scanner (>1200 dpi) for the picture you absolute want to keep…but this usually takes a long time as the scanning could be quite slow.
So my suggestion is that for the so so pictures you can scan at 600 dpi to save time but give printable work to 8*10 inch.

not really They noted some good arguments there.

Somethings are still unanswered in the scientific community and we obviously do not understand them.

Eg. Gravity or magnitism

No such particle that apply force but we have not yet found them. Only we do know that these forces exist.

Obviously we don’t believe the earth is flat just because we can’t explain some of the theories of our physical world but why not let them have their own fun in claiming the earth is flat…
I do not see anyhard in just ignoring them.

you may have a point there i had my zoom on the camera zoomed up as much as it would go(closer) should it be retracted or?

any ideas hallo?

You were correct… The zoom should be extended to the fullest.
If you already do so then there is definately something wrong either with your camera or the converter…

Are you still using the zoom when you installed the opteka telephoto converter? Converters are designed work in a specific distance to you lens usually for telephoto converters it is only when you extend you zoom fully.

Your fuji mounts converters onto the rim of the adapter ring rather than onto the rim of the lens. So having to maintain a optimal distance means you can’t zoom.