We (Ferrymead Mosquito Project) have the following radio boxes available for trade:
A1134 Intercom amplifier, including crate and most of the mountings (the bungees on the other side will be fitted, but batteries not included):

R1155 HF Receiver (4 off, one very original and 3 hacked about variously). We can include some of the Jones plugs for the set and the connector to the power supply

Rebecca Mk IV Indicator unit Type 208 10QB/6130

We are after:
R.3121 or R.3090 IFF Transponder (the US version SCR 595/695 would do)
Type 90 IFF Aerial
A1271 Beam Approach Amplifier
Beam Approach Aerial 10B/496
Voltage Control Panel Type 3 or Type C3
UV Lighting Resistance Box 5C/1879

(We also have a wants list of smaller items). We are in NZ, but the problem is unlikely to be insurmountable. Please PM me if you have any interest in these items and anything to trade with.

Cheers

The timber Mosquito is W/T, Wired Throughout, that is copper bonding strips join EVERY metal component within the aircraft so that there cannot be any arcing to ignite petrol fumes, interfere with radio radio transmissions or, in the case of lightning strike, cause massive voltage to carbonize the pilot or disintergrate the airframe. The pilot’s seat and armour backplate is bonded, every piece of metal is bonded.

Ed, just as an aside have you come across enough original bits of structure to have noticed how many ‘spare’ bonding tabs there are? While as you say all metal components are bonded, often the bods at Standard Motors seems to have been in doubt as to exactly how many tabs were needed on a given component, and so have generously sprinkled extras around, which aren’t connected to anything. Mind you, they might just have been short of washers. In a lot of places in the cockpit of NZ2328 star washers have been used in place of penny washers, which is a bit funky. C’est la guerre.

Presumably they also built special mechanics who could work on it, with eight fingers with six joints each on each hand?

Adrian

Amongst those of us from outside the UK working on British cars, bikes or aircraft the assumption is that over there all mechanics must be born that way. 🙂

A technique for removing rust from steel that I have heard of, but not yet tried, is a mix of water and molasses.
Whatever chemical interactions that take place in the foul fermenting vat, eats the oxide without touching the steel.
Mix water with molasses in a 9:1 ratio and put your part in for as long as two weeks. Iron oxide is gone without touching the steel.
I realize this will not leave a polished finish, but you will have removed zero non corroded material. Cheap too!

We use this quite a bit with steel, because it is cheap and environmentally friendly. There are a few gotchas, like not using hooman food grade molasses because it is (a) expensive and (b) has the sulphates that do the reacting removed. It doesn’t strip paint which can be a bit of a pain, and it takes ages, but we have time.

Thanks for that. Very informative.

My mind is drifting to ‘CO2 sessions’ once every six months in Melbourne where other folk can come in and blast away for an hour, paying a contributory fee, including beer tax.

I think we’d be game if it weren’t for the inconvenience of the ditch.

I wonder if our friendly neighbourhood railway has a suitable compressor.

Well Ed, I’m really more akin to Dora than to Leonard Cheshire, but I’ll drop you a line with a few targets of interest. Cheers A

Was it one of these two?
http://forum.keypublishing.com/showthread.php?59532-Spitfire-placard
http://forum.keypublishing.com/showthread.php?130319-Cockpit-label-fonts

I found them quite useful/interesting when preparing Mosquito placards. I ended up using News Gothic MT, which is of the period but American. Sufficiently close that only a serious font-spotter will pick up the differences: