Gary,

At this link you can download a full version of the D50 manual http://www.8080.net/download/330956290.pdf

Your picture seems a bit overexposed indeed, but this can be corrected in post-processing. I’ve included a quick-and-dirty example.

In automatic modes there are no fixed exposure compensation factors which can be applied successfully. Conditions can vary enormously. It is usually best to set the camera on manual and take a representative meter reading (e.g. to a subject at the horizon level, but with the same position of the sun as for ground to air shots). Most of the time you should end up with exposures like the equivalents of 1/250 at F16 in bright sun, 1/250 at F11 in partial cloudy conditions and 1/250 at F8 in overcast (all for ISO 200).

An alternative metering method, which I’ve used quite succesfully, is to take incident meter readings with a separate lightmeter, like a Weston Euromaster with invercone attachment. With incident light readings (taken in the opposite direction from the subject), you just measure the intensity of the light which is falling on the subject. The beauty of such readings is, that it cannot be mislead by the colours of the subject and the intensity of the light on the background.

The big advantage of your digital camera is, that you can take a few sample shots with manual settings, and check the histogram for a good coverage without too much underexposure and/or overexposed highlights.

Hope this helps.

You could consider to get a zoom in that range from Sigma, Tokina or Tamron. Although more expensive, I know that the Sigma HSM 4/100-300 is an excellent performer and very well built. Anyway I would strongly advise to buy the best glass possible within your reach and, if necessary, to save up a bit longer. The so-called kit lenses often are rather weak performers and/or not the best in mechanical quality. More often than not you’ll eventually want a better lens anyway.

A few from my archives.

Over the past two years I’ve digitized a few thousand slides, using a dedicated scanner. In my case this is the Konica Minolta Dimage Scan Dual IV (now discontinued), which cost me some € 350,-. The results are quite good, especially since corrections can be made at the scanning stage as well as in postprocessing in Photoshop (Elements) or similar programs. I’m quite sure that scanning is the best possible option for digitizing slides.

The results have nothing to do with whitebalance settings and such, as the used camera is an analogue type using (print?) film. The clearly visible grain (and colour shift) is probably due to underexposure against a bright sky. A slight underrating of Fuji 400 printfilm at ISO 250, combined with a correct exposure of the subject, will give the finest grain. Put the camera on manual and take a light reading on an average subject on the ground in the same horizontal direction as the aircraft in the air. Use this setting for the ground to air shots. Normally you should end up with exposure settings around 1/500 at f8 in sunny conditions with some clouds.

A few more shots taken Sunday May 28th at Lelystad.

Recent shot of Dutch Connie cockpit.