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Jur

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Viewing 15 posts - 316 through 330 (of 377 total)
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  • in reply to: P-51D "Big Beautiful Doll" lost its canopy…! #1280376
    Jur
    Participant

    Big Beautiful Doll in better days. Hope she will be like that very soon again!

    in reply to: Help on Photographing Moving Aircraft #461964
    Jur
    Participant

    My camera is actually a Nikon Coolpix S1, and is a SMP camera.

    Anyway, I found the ISO thing and had various options, from 100 to 800 or something. Its currently on Auto.

    The Coolpix S1, with 5MP, is already a much better camera than the Coolpix 2000. However most of my earlier remarks still stand, especially as the reach of the zoom lens is equivalent to only 35-105mm on 35mm film. You could try to use the digital zoom to increase range, but usually it degrades the picture quality. A higher ISO value (e.g. ISO 200 or even 400) will result in a higher shutterspeed at the expense of increased noise, but it is certainly worth to try. Anyway always choose the highest picture quality setting. Apart from the AUTO setting, you should try to use the SPORT and BEACH/SNOW settings and see which gives you the best results. As there normally is a tendency to underexpose when taking photographs of aircraft against a bright sky, you should also try the D-Lighting setting on your camera to correct the exposure. Good luck!

    in reply to: Help on Photographing Moving Aircraft #461972
    Jur
    Participant

    Oh I see.

    Well just had a look on my camera and this is what it says: ZOOM NIKKOR ED 5.8-17.4mm 1:3.0-5.4

    Your camera is probably a Nikon Coolpix 2000, which is a 2MP camera with very limited choices of operation. The zoom range is equivalent to 38-114mm on a 35mm camera, which is very limiting to photography of aircraft in flight. Other limiting factors are that you can’t preselect a shutterspeed, ISO values and/or exposure correction factors. Best results will probably be obtained at the AUTO setting or at the BEACH/SNOW scene mode. I’m afraid that for acceptable results you’ll have to look for a camera with longer tele-reach (at least 135-200mm equivalent on a 35mm camera) and a wider choice of operation modes (shutterspeed pre-select, ISO choices, exposure correction, etc.).

    in reply to: Olympus E500 opinions please? #461975
    Jur
    Participant

    Would I be making a good choice in purchasing one of these for aviation photography? I was looking at the Twin Lens kit of 14-40mm & 40-150mm. No other reason than I’ve always been an Olympus fan. Thanks.

    Did you check this out? Could be helpful.

    http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympuse500/

    in reply to: RAW verses JPEG #462720
    Jur
    Participant

    I’m a Canon owner myself, but I understand that Nikon View and Nikon PictureProject will both convert Nikon RAW files and are available as free downloads.

    The more sophisticated and capable Nikon Capture software is not free.

    I’m sure a Nikon user will correct me if this isn’t the case. 🙂

    You’re quite right; both the free Nikon View and Picture Project programs will convert Nikon RAW (NEF) files to jpeg or tiff files. Nikon Capture (not free after a trial period) provides the user with much more powerful tools. Another very good free option to convert RAW files is Rawshooter Essentials, which can be downloaded at this site http://esd.element5.com/demoreg.html?productid=545269&languageid=1&stylefrom=545269

    in reply to: RAW verses JPEG #462920
    Jur
    Participant

    One aspect that does not seem to have been mentioned in the Raw v JPEG debate is the speed in which the camera can upload the data.

    I have a Nikon D100 and when in raw mode the ‘writing’ speed can be quite slow. This can be frustrating at times, one of few areas where the old 35mm SLR still has a slight advantage, In fine JPEG mode it copes fine though.

    Septic.

    With my D2x and Sandisk Extreme III cards (4gb) writing speed in Raw is no issue at all, not even a 5 fps or 8 fps (in crop mode).

    in reply to: RAW verses JPEG #463164
    Jur
    Participant

    I always use the RAW format (NEF’s or compressed NEF’s with Nikon), because it provides the best quality possible and provides you with the best tools to make adjustments afterwards (whitebalance, exposure compensation, sharpening, contrast, etc.). The only drawbacks are that the files are larger than when shooting JPEG’s and that you need a good RAW converter for postprocessing. Rawshooters Essentials is excellent is this respect, but I usually use Nikon Capture 4.4 (and wait for the new Capture NX to be available). Also remember that JPEG is a “lossy” format; you lose a bit of information (quality) every time you have made adjustments and saved the file.

    With Nikon (I use a D2x) I’ve found that compressed NEF’s make a nice compromise between uncompressed RAW and JPEG’s. On a 4gb CF card I can accommodate up to 400 compressed NEF pictures.

    in reply to: Editing? #463865
    Jur
    Participant

    Cropping cuts out the parts of the frame you don’t want, here’s an example of the same shot as an original and cropped/sharpened…

    You also could easily have improved the contrast a bit. Just a quick and dirty example of the same picture.

    in reply to: Which digital camera #464070
    Jur
    Participant

    im still not sure wether a 10d would be better than the 350d.has anyone got any opinions???

    I’m not very familiar with Canon DSLR’s, but have you checked this site http://www.dpreview.com ?

    In the review of the EOS 350D a comparison is also made with the successor of the 10D, the 20D. A quote from the conclusion: “Image quality is just as good as the more expensive EOS 20D, if you can live with the differences between the two the money saved could buy you a very nice lens.”

    in reply to: Which digital camera #464075
    Jur
    Participant

    Larger the MP the better!

    Not necessarily so. Other camera aspects like its processing algorithms, noise reduction, etc. are equally important. Sometimes a camera with less MP gives better results than another camera with more MP’s. Read camera tests; e.g. at this site http://www.dpreview.com/

    in reply to: Vickers Viscount still airworthy anywhere? #1363374
    Jur
    Participant

    Just a few more Viscount pics taken at Schiphol Airport in 1966.

    in reply to: Polarisers #464219
    Jur
    Participant

    Polarisers are not very practical in ground to air photography. Not only do they reduce the exposure, the polariser effect also changes with the direction the lens is pointing to (because of the relative position of the sun). My advice: forget about using a polariser for ground to air photography and limit its use for more static subjects, like landscapes or maybe aircraft on the ground to darken the sky and to make the clouds stand out more.

    in reply to: URGENT HELP REQUIRED! #464360
    Jur
    Participant

    The shutterspeeds are indeed way to low; I even noticed 1/19 sec!! Another problem could be that your camera is not focussing correctly. In the EXIF’s I noticed that the recorded subject distance was only 10.0 meters!

    in reply to: fuji 9500 v olympus e500 v nikon d50 v canon eos 350d #464362
    Jur
    Participant

    Congratulations with your new camera and enjoy your photography!!

    in reply to: fuji 9500 v olympus e500 v nikon d50 v canon eos 350d #464541
    Jur
    Participant

    Anyways if you are a avid photographer you shouldn’t really rely on auto everything… It certainly won’t improve you abilities if you let the camera decide for you every single time…

    Pesonally I hate touching light plastic camera body as it makes the whole camera feel cheap…

    I’ve been an “avid photographer” for more than 40 years and have my own darkroom for colour and B&W developing and printing. Certainly I’m not an auto everything person too and still use my film camera’s quite often (Nikon FM2n with MD11, F4s, F100). I even often use a handheld meter (Weston Master with invercone) for incident light readings, manual focus lenses, etc. However for air to ground photograhy I’ve found that the ability to choose a specific selection of autofocus sensors helps to get more in focus shots than with other methods.

    About those cheap light plastic camera’s: correct me if I’m wrong, but according to Olympus themselves the E500 is completely made of polycarbonat (plastic!!) and by comparison to the EOS350D and D50 is the lightest of the three. The weight of the E500 is only 479 g (inc. batt.); compare that to my D2x at 1150 g. However I would in no way regard the E500 as an inferior camera, quite the contrary. Just to set the record straight.

Viewing 15 posts - 316 through 330 (of 377 total)