Canon 17-40L is an excellent lens and just right for statics on a 1.6 crop DSLR…
A
The Canon 28-135 IS is also a great lense.
Hey ho! 😮 I was just about to say “don’t touch the Canon 28-135IS with a barge pole”… The 28-135 is a right bag of nails IMHO, and I wish I’d never got rid of my faithful 28-105 which I sold when I bought a body which included the 28-135.
Andy
Depends which 70-200L you are talking about… 70-200 F4.0L with 2x converter will challenge the AF system on the non-pro bodies, whereas the 70-200 F2.8L-IS + 2x is a somewhat more attractive but more expensive proposition (the base lens even moreso with the 1.4x)
Andy
I’d definitely be thinking twice and thrice about buying the 100-400 L
Ho hum… Over four years with a 100-400L-IS and no problems so far – touch wood. Actually, and contrary to DamienB’s comments, I’ve recently grown to value the 100-400 more than I did in the past… I used to think it was rather soft at the long end, but after those four years I’ve finally mastered the lens and I wouldn’t change it – unless it breaks, that is.
Having said that, there is no way I’d knock the Canon 75-300 as I used that lens for years and in terms of price/performance its a difficult lens to beat.
ANdy
Skymonster, on no4 creating a duplicate layer and applying the equalise filter to that layer can also give benefits as you can turn each layer on or off to compare. Surprised at no5 as well from a screener ;
Paul, I agree, that’s the one point when I do tend to create a layer sometimes. IMHO easier approach however is to clean the camera sensor!
As far as cloning out lamp posts etc is concerned (1) I’m not a photo screener at that other site anymore, (2) I do like to tidy up images but I draw the line at messing with the subject itself – I don’t do that and (3) what the eye can’t detect the brain doesn’t need to worry about – in other words, if you do the cloning well enough no one needs be aware you’ve done it 😉
Andy
Right, so back to my original question, what steps do you all take in Photoshop? 😮
I’m afraid my process is fairly simple for web display as I usually can’t be bothered with more complex techniques or messing with layers unless I’m after something very particular:
1. RAW to TIFF conversion – a subject in itself which, if done “properly” can reduce the amount of effort required in PhotoShop
2. Rotate (if needed) for level horizon
3. Crop
4. Remove dust spots (filter, equalise shows them very well, then swap back to normal mode to clone them out)
5. Remove other undesirables (e.g. lamp posts appearing to grow out of the tops of fuselages, overhead transmission lines and pylons, etc)
6. Adjust colour balance / white balance until I’m happy with what I see
7. Adjust contrast and levels (and/or curves) until I’m happy with what I see, verified with the hystogram (no empty space at either end)
8. Resize and/or alter pixels per inch to desired final output size and resolution
9. Unsharp mask (settings depend on image, purpose – i.e. less USM for printing than for web, etc. USM is a “black” art IMHO)
10. Save in output format, usually jpeg for web
Andy
Nobody’s mentioned squeezing the histogram or fiddling the curves to get more or less contrast yet . . .
Not to mention setting the unsharp mask parameters and using levels . . .
Indeed not. But I wanted to explain what JPEG compression was (as there has been much spoken erroneously about this subject on another forum) so that the OP could figure out whether JPEG compression was really his problem. On the basis that the original question has been reasked, I shall assume that JPEG compression isn’t in fact the issue…
Andy
Don’t forget the important step when resizing for web display is to reduce the dpi to 72 (screen resolution)
Come on now Moggy, don’t go perpetuating another urban myth… 😮 Change the PIXELS per inch to 72 – dots per inch are a measure of printer resolution [only] :rolleyes: :p
Andy
resaving a jpeg over and over again will gradually make the quality worse
PS: Whilst a single save at highest quality has little noticable effect, if you want absolute top quality this is an argument for shooting raw rather than jpeg – a photograph recorded by the camera as a jpeg has already been compressed in a lossy format, whilst a raw file is in a lossless format.
Andy
JPEG is a “lossy” format – that is, data is lost from the image when the file is reduced in size during the save process. Whilst this reduction in size has advantages, it also has disadvantages when it comes to reconstituting the image later as it is not always possible to “recover” the lost data. The amount of data that is lost, and thus the reduction in quality, is directly associated with the quality level that is set when you have an image. The higher the quality setting, the less the file is compressed, the less data is lost, and thus the higher the quality of the image you will see when you view it next.
Artifacts that are introduced as a result of reducing the file size during a JPEG save are known as “jpeg compression”. In the following two images, it should be possible to discern a noticable loss of quality in the “low” image as compared to the “high” image. It is easiest to notice the artifacts in the “low” image if you look at a hard line such as the line that demarks the edges of the nose from the sky. The “shimmery” area just into the sky around the nose are jpeg compression artifacts. Its worth noting that the “low” quality image is 32k (Photoshop level 3), whilst the “high” quality image is 132k (Photoshop level 12).
For reproduction such as printing, ALWAYS save at highest the quality setting. For web display, a lower value should suffice. Finally, note that losses from compression are cumulative – resaving a jpeg over and over again will gradually make the quality worse.
Andy
1. Get the biggest and most expensive digital camera money can buy. Canon is in, Zenith is out.
Nah… Canon is in, NIKON is out! :diablo: :p :rolleyes:
Andy
Not bad from a Nikon photographer! 😉
Andy
My second show at OW – did the early August show last year too. Lovely venue and atmosphere… Good variety of old, rare and not quite so old (nice to see a jet and a glider too)… But an OW show lacks the “slickness” and continuity of something like Legends (a few too many pauses in the OW programme)… Oh, and by far the worst aspect of an OW show – someone PLEASE shoot that commentator and put us all out of our misery (most classic comments were when the glider was on, commentator saying how peaceful and quiet is was – well it would have been if he hadn’t kept blubbering on!).
Andy as you will see from the title of the thread we were enquiring about either getting Twin Otters or Trislanders for this special operation. The Trislanders and Islanders are Piston aircraf,t thus the pilots require an MEP, which all of us have.
Well, I’m glad to hear your flying training is back on track then… :rolleyes: (my emphasis above)
first off, my training, if you had followed what was going on you would have seen that in October last year I came off the APP at OAT due to family issues, I have since continued with OAT on a modular course, I took leave in February to concentrate on the airline until which point that I can resume my training….it’s a suprising amount of work to run an airline, let alone complete all 14 ATPL groundschool exams, and then complete the actual flying.
Our pilots are all MEP rated which is all that is required for this aircraft type
Huh? Why do you need all your pilots to be MEP rated? A MEP class rating is no use for the originally planned Jetstreams, nor for a Twin Otter for that matter – neither are Piston (the P in MEP), and both need individual type ratings anyway rather, than a class rating.
Andy