And who is stopping you from expressing yours, exactly?
You seem to be lashing out at anyone who disagrees with you now.
Maybe you should give yourself an hour or so to calm down before you post in here again, eh?
Why? I’m not the one having problems understanding what’s being said.
Perhaps you should go back and re-read our posts.
If you have something constructive to say, then by all means say it, don’t YOU lash out at me because you fail to grasp the fundamentals.
Saying X is better than Y is hardly conducive to a tempered discussion.
I’m not quite sure why you do!
But that’s exactly my point twisted about. I don’t have trouble working with any AR, from your responses it seems you consider that AR is the be all and end all of photography.
You’re all missing the real point. Which is that it isn’t about the “ability” or otherwise of any particular individual. It is about the limitations that surround those that don’t want to stick to the norm.
I certainly have little use for photographs in a 4:3 format, and I suspect many others do to.
Indeed, the sensor on many digital cameras doesn’t even fit photo papers for a printer. You have to alter the AR, or end up with distorted or under/over printing, but it’s pointless doing that until you’ve sorted out everything else first.
now by your own admission, can’t measure up.
That’s a nonsense argument, and you know it. I never said anything of the sort.
I think it’s called “expressing an opinion”. We tend to encourage that in here, strangely enough
Oh, I see, I understand, expressing an opinion is only allowed by the people you authorise is it?
If you mean this:
TTBOMK you can’t simply set an aspect ratio and then size that around the information you want to keep.
I’m talking about the limitations of the editing software, and it’s inability to work directly with all aspect ratios.
You said you “can’t” work with a fixed aspect ratio and fit whatever you want to in the frame, which is a puzzling thing for any photographer of experience to say.
It would be, if I did. I don’t recall saying that, because you’re right, it would be puzzling.
I can fit anything I want, wherever I want it, if it’s in range of my lens, of course.
The problem here Rob is that you’re arguing not only with someone who knows what he’s doing, his photographs are proof of that fact. I know nothing about aspect ratios and all the other issues which you are discussing, the simple fact is that Paul’s photos, with all due respect, are absolutely light years ahead of yours in terms of their aesthetic appeal. You can put that down to whatever you wish, equipment, knowledge, understanding or just simple talent.
Regards,
kev35
If you don’t understand what we’re discussing, why are you commenting, unless it is simply to put me down? Something I’ve noted you have an increasing habit of doing recently.
Frankly, Paul has equipment that is light years better than mine, so of course his results in terms of image quality are going to be miles better. I simply cannot compete, if indeed it is a competition.
And Sony include the anti-shake system in the body, rather than the lenses, so you don’t need to spend fortunes on every single lens, even standard new Minolta/Sony fit lenses can be had at a relatively reasonable price.
Now, that kind of comment is likely to bring out the purists, who argue that IS (image stability) works better in the lens (which is no doubt true) but if, like me, you’re on a limited budget anti-shake in the body is a better compromise than no anti-shake at all, or needlessly increasing the amount of debt you put yourself in.
I’m also looking at Sony DSLRs for next year, have been quite impressed with some of the results I’ve seen.
You’re making the mistake, in your argument, that everyone wants to view digital photos on a 4:3 monitor. They don’t. Different techniques are required these days to get an image that matches your needs, or even to cater for several different display media.
You have to move on from the blinkered view that a photo is only any good if it fits a postcard, or you must keep the same AR as the original image. These days, that’s bonkers.
As I said earlier. I often have to make my photos fit several different ARs, and they don’t all have presets you can rely upon to cut a nice handy square(ish) picture. In fact 1:1 is one of the AR presets that aren’t offered in particular, but I think you (should) get my point. There’s often little choice but to use Free Form and tailor for your own particular needs.
So AR isn’t everything, it’s often the last thing that I consider these days. And composition is mostly worked out during processing.
When you say “film” the word “arc” springs to mind.
Ok – so how you do go about eliminating the information you don’t want?
TTBOMK you can’t simply set an aspect ratio and then size that around the information you want to keep.
But, always willing to learn.
FYI, I use PS Pro, I’ll take another look at my options, but I’ve never found that one previously that works properly, and believe me, I’ve looked.
From my experience, any that are available are very limited, and certainly won’t cover all eventualities. Printing to paper is one thing, but if you have a variety of different media – such as a 16:9 monitor, then there probably isn’t a pre-set for it.
It depends on what you’re doing. If you’re uploading to sites like JP then you’ll have to use either a 3:2 or 4:3 aspect ratio. I find 3:2 works well for everything I shoot in aviation and frankly, the vast majority of digital cameras naturally produce 3:2 or 4:3 anyway (almost all non-four thirds DSLR’s are 3:2, the same as 35mm film), so why change it?
Paul
But that’s only with regard to those aspect ratio’s. It’s got nothing to do with cropping, as such. You’re better of cropping first, resize, then adjust for aspect ratio.
Cropping is for eliminating unnecessary information, it’s not much to do with aspect ratio (unless you over/under crop in the wrong direction).
The weather was above limits? Do you know what limits the Vulcan operates under?
I’dsay if it had taken off and done a circuit then landed we’d still have loads of posts along the lines of “I paid £xx to see the Vulcan and all it did was fly round once and land”
The airfield when to a yellow state alert by the time the Vulcan was ready to fly. It isn’t what the Vulcan’s minimum height limits are, it’s what the airfields flight limits are at the time for that particular class of aircraft.
Surrounding terrain has ariels on hills up to 1,000ft.
For instance, the Rafael flew, but the Typhoon did not. Call me a cynic, but I’m sure the Typhoon can operate in similar limits to the Rafael.
Mine you, the Typhoon completely cancelled quite early, so I still feel the Rafael crew did a better overall job yesterday. But maybe it was just timing.
Also, to be fair to the Vulcan crew, they were preparing early to take advantage of any break in the weather, but the brake problem stymied that, and they were still prepared to fly at a moments notice until the airfield called the yellow alert.
Surely the dimensions are what matters. The aspect ratio is whatever you prefer, but when you’re actually cropping an image you want to get the details you want within that crop.
So, simply adjust the CM of whichever you prefer to use “height” or “width” to include more or less of the subject.
Personally, I do it slightly differently, I don’t retain the original aspect ratio, I select one that fits the media I want to view it on. For a computer screen, in my case, that’s 16:9 or 16:10 (depending on which screen I want it for). If it’s for Internet viewing, I use 4:3.
But I also resize my images. If you use only crop, the image can end up too fierce, or not enough.
Also, I don’t use inches or centimeters, I use pixels in order 1360×768, 1440×900 or 800×600.
How do I do it?
1. Manually crop the image, but make it taller than I actually need. Ensure that you don’t crop so severely that resizing won’t increase the size of the cropped image – for instance, if I want an 800×600 image I will only crop down to 1200pixels wide, so that I have at least 1.5 times the number of required pixels to work with when resizing, next.
2. Resize for width. This also resizes the height automatically, which is why I always crop taller than I need.
3. Set a crop for the height parameter and move the “crop” area up or down to include the detail I want. Confirm the crop, and wallah.
Before doing all that though I clear up for digital camera noise.
Then, once cropped appropriately, I do anything else I might need, such as sharpness (using the unsharp mask).
Hope this helps.
Excellent news – better than expected. Twitter a/c says she landed on @Yeovilton Circa 1910 local 10th.
Keep her warmed up if the weather closes in – to take advantage of any breaks. Let’s see a QRA type launch.