Wings
“AVI, nice pictures of the spar. I am guessing they don’t detach? And they start the dihedral right at the center point? Just curious.”
6 degree dihedral from ac centerline. Both wings detach. Top of spar is bolted on both sides to fuselage bulkhead with the top and bottom plates securing the inboard sections of both spars. The wings also have forward and aft attach points at the fuselage. Very strong structure.
Tom, for military aircraft that are expected to suffer battle damage, detachable, separate wings are easier to replace and if only one wing is damaged, there is no need to replace the other undamaged one.
Homebuilts and replicas don’t usually have bad guys shooting at them, so a single, one piece wing is not only less complicated, it is also much lighter. The limitation is usually the workspace required in which to build a long, one piece wing. Weight is always a major consideration.
The Falco has a one piece wing. The SF 260, which is really a beefed-up Falco manufactured in metal rather than in wood with basically an identical wing planform, is a military aircraft and has two piece wings. I understand the cost of a set of SF260 replacement wings is around a half million dollars. Just the wings.
The Lanceair wing is two piece, very interesting, efficient bit of engineering. You might want to check it out. Composites, but the same principles apply.
You might want to seriously consider a one-piece wing unless you intend to trailer the aircraft and need detachable wings for storage. Cheaper to construct, less complicated to design, and much lighter.
Spar
Creaking Door: Wouldn’t that present one huge chunk of metal to mill? What would that cost and how much would it weigh?
By comparison, here are illustrations showing the construction of a metal, aerobatic aircraft similar in weight to the 70%-80% replica Spitfire, maybe a bit on the heavy side. The wings are two piece, like Tom’s design. The spar appears relatively simply in construction but that is misleading. It’s a complicated structure. Look at the massive plates in center fuselage joining the two spar halves.
This aircraft has an empty weight of approx 755kg/1664lbs, stressed to +6g -3g with a max aerobatic wing loading of 109kg/m2 – 33.4 lbs/sq ft.
Unlike the Spitfire’s wing, this wing is a straight taper.
Jag/Lambo
The Jag’s final cost won’t be cheap either,but then again it will have twice the hp of either the BMW or the real thing…:diablo:[/QUOTE]
What are you using for a transaxle? Porsche or ZF?
Blown LS7
Here’s Algie’s blown LS7 – some serious HP
VTwelves
Avi,I think you have to let me in on what you meant that the stroker Jag would do,I think I fell out of it about there. And PSRU? Unknown term for me (but then again I’m not having English as my native language).
Break-in procedures are in many instances unfortunately made by the accountants,not the engineers…You could have rev’ed it,and it would have survived.. 🙂
This Jag engine is becoming a stroker (with billet 4-valve heads) that will go into a replica. Not a Spit,unfortunately,but a Lamborghini. I just fancy V12’s,as “Gentlemen can not travel with less”… and Mossies. 🙂
RF769: PSRU : Propeller Speed Reduction Unit. Most lightplane engines are direct drive, running at low rpms – low to high 2000s. V8 Chevs and V12s generate max horsepower at higher rpms, like around 5 grand or more so require reduction units for the prop.
There’s a guy in the US with a drop top Lambo replica stuffed with a BMW V12. Expensive engine.
Ol’Spitty: Is that an LS6 from a Z06 ‘Vette? That’s over 400 horses stock. Who makes the PSRU? Is it home grown?
Check out Algie Composite Aircraft. This is one amazing project!
http://members.iquest.net/~aca/
http://www.apk-developments.com/aca.html#Powerplant
Has the Mk 26 with the LS6 flown yet?
Pilot Seat
Is that a new build pilot’s seat from Oz?? :0-
HuH?
Huh? Are you saying that he should mill the inner spar caps out of the spar joining plate? In other words creating an I-beam out of the spar joining plate?
Am I missing something here?
VTwelves
In fact the Jag V12 isn’t that heavy… about 220 kgs complete in road trim. The nice fact about it is that you have so much room in the crankcases that you can up the stroke a full 20mm,and bore it 6mm. So from having an engine with Bore 90 and Stroke 70,giving 5.344 liters you can have 96 x 90. Which is 7.817 liters… Or if that’s not enough,they have been pushed to 98 x 94 with deck plates on the block… That’s 8.5 liters.
Or just go here: http://www.falconerengines.com/prod04.htm …that is,if the budget allows.. 🙂
Yeah, the Falconer V12 is the one that was designed for the Thunder Mustang – originally two Chevy V6s mated together. Big bucks. Good ol’ hot rod engine builder.
Or if money is no object, why not the home-grown Orenda V12? What ever happened to that one? Last I heard it was a bit over a hundred grand a copy.
A stroker Jag V12 will do that? What about a PSRU?
BTW, RF769, what do you do with your Jag engines in Norway? Auto or airplane? You sound like a Jag lover – my first one was a ’67 Euro-spec E-Type/XK-E roadster, one of the last of the covered headlight Series 2s that I picked up new at the factory in Coventry when I was stationed in Germany oh so long ago. The most frustrating part was driving back to our base in Germany with no-speed-limit roads but limited in top speed by the break-in rpm of 2500!!!! It redlined at 5500!
Spitfire Kit
Stuart, isn’t the Jag V12 kind of heavy compared to an LS Chevy?
Tom: Here you go … it will get you into the air quickly and relatively cheaply while you doodle on your spar. :)-
Mk1 Spitfire
Mk 1: Thanks for posting the pictures – it’s a pretty airplane! At the risk of dating myself, I can recall building the Guillow’s Spitfire back when it only cost three or four bucks. Some years ago it was quite a pleasant surprise to discover that both my sons were building the Guillow’s Spitfire and FW 190. How many thousands of kits have they churned out over the decades, and how many generations of modelers have experienced those wonderful balsa models?
You’re quite correct about the sound and the practicality of a V8 in a replica warbird, but how about a modern Chevy LS all aluminum powerplant over the Buick/Olds/Rover engine? One, they’re more modern, and put out twice the power that the Buick/Rover does at about the same or even less weight. Secondly, they’re a whole lot cheaper to build than the Rover V8. There are also more companies that specialize in the Chev for homebuilts and a wider choice of PRUs.
Tom, we seem to be butting heads, but to go along with the above post giving you advice on the twisting moments of the wing and spar, here’s a simple illustration on the load vectors acting on a wing.
There are a couple of books available that contain information on sizing the loads and designing the spar. Reading them might not be a bad place to start.
Spitfire Replicas
DazDaMan, have you started on your own replica yet? Nice website!
Mk 1, do you have any photos of your Spitfire that you could post? What are you using for a powerplant and PRU?
Too Simple A Way
Hey, PP,
That’s what I’ve been trying to tell him!
Why reinvent the wheel when others have already been there?
Ah, but let’s not be too hard on Tom. He’s got a dream, so why burst the bubble? Let him chase it.
If Tom enjoys beating metal, why not let him do it? Ol’Spitty is doing a 100% scale Spitfire. That’s a whole lot of challenge but must also be a whole lot of gratification in the sense of self-accomplishment!
80% Spitfire
Hello, Phantom Phixer: That article was from an old Kitplanes magazine from a few years ago.
The address at the end of the article:
Bob Cutting
4635 Britannia Drive
Richmond BC V7E 6B1
Canada
Telephone: 604 275-1603
Richmond is just outside Vancouver, BC, on the West Coast. I have not been following the plane but you might check out http://www.tally-ho.org for more information. I believe that they are the same folks, a couple of Ex-pat Brits. Tom Kay might know more about the availability of plans.
Thoughts on the Concept
Tom: At the risk of aggravating the sh*t out of you, as mentioned in my above post, the spar loads must first be calculated to determine the thickness and width of the spar caps and the thickness of the spar web within the height of the ribs/airfoil.
Otherwise, you can conceptualize all day long and there will be no guarantees that your concept will work. My two cents worth is that it’s virtually impossible to ascertain whether whatever concept you may doodle out on the sketchpad will work until the size of the sparcaps and web have been determined, plus, don’t forget, the width and thickness of the spar carry-through in the fuselage. Don’t forget that important piece of structure.
Any simple C-channel or box spar will work, the spar being no more than a simple I-beam, but the width and height and type/thickness of material will be determined by the calculated loads.
A simple spar consisting of two U-channels bolted back to back to form the web and a mounting point for additional tapered flat plate sparcaps will work. A simple round tube as used on the BD5 will work. A simple box spar will work. There are a number of solutions.
Why don’t you research other metal designs such as the Vans RV series of metal aircraft and the Chris Heintz metal homebuilts? Have a good look at their solutions.
In viewing the photo that Ol’Spitty posted of the bare wing, it seems that the Spitfire ribs are of simple truss type construction – light, strong. Heck, you could build a spar with narrow tubes for sparcaps that would be easy to bend to the wing taper, and use a truss type web…. there are any number of solutions.
In building a replica, as Mk 1 has mentioned, what’s under the skin is not visible to the naked eye. However, regardless of manner of construction, a spar that is not sufficiently sized for the loads may fail at the most inopportune time.
I’ve got a set of Vans RV3 plans that I purchased some years ago for research sitting around somewhere. It’s a terrific, simple, metal design and the plans and manual are excellent. I’ll be glad to sell them to you to at my original cost if you want. The plans will definitely give you a bunch of knowledge of how a metal homebuilt goes together. I’m not pushing the plans but many enthusiasts will tell you that a good start is to obtain several different plans sets of various aircraft for study and research. Over the years I’ve spent a few thousand dollars on research material. Worth the entry price!
And, hey, don’t take me too seriously. I’m not really trying to aggravate you on purpose!
Food for Thought
Eyeball/ballpark guess: a 70% metal replica should come in at around 1100 – 1400 lbs empty weight. By comparison, it’s about the size, perhaps a little smaller, than an SF-260 which is about 1500 lbs with a max gross of around 2500 lbs.
If you build it to 2500 lbs you’ll never get it off the ground unless you shoehorn a real Merlin into it!
Size the spar. Then try to figure out how to build it. How can you decide on the construction/size without knowing what the loads are? Before you can size the spar you’re going to have to size the aircraft in order to obtain the wing span/area and wing loads.
Without doing that first, Tom, you’re going to be running around like a chicken with it’s head chopped off. Try starting from square one. I’d like very much to see you eventually not only build this replica, but to successfully get it off the ground.
BTW if it were me building it (which it ain’t) I’d be thinking of composites – fiberglass and carbonfiber.
Article about 80% Spitfire for inspiration: