Tom KayHi DawnPatrol;
How many Merlins are you up to now? A good comprehensive hobby! Can we request some pictures or a website?
You probably know all of these contacts, but here goes anyway.
http://51-factory.com/ has a cubic mile of Merlin parts, probably leaned heavily toward the Packard type. They’re a little hard to get a hold of at times, but they might be willing to help.
And there is a company in the US that is now printing Packard exhaust stubs, at least for one customer Rob Connelly, who has been flying with them, and here are a few links. Again, no idea if they’ll help (the guy 3D print company owner, John Murray, wasn’t remotely interested that I’m printing full sized replica Merlin heads, banks, carburetors) so just find out if they’ll respond. I think the print company is “Concept Laser” and here are some info links; https://www.facebook.com/aircorpsaviation/posts/1545997812107799 and https://all3dp.com/aviation-enthusiasts-3d-printed-p-51d-mustang/
Good hunting. Tom.
Tom KayHi Jules;
Good luck with this project. It sounds fun, and a Mk III is quite an oldie. Assuming you’re in the UK (or possibly France?), I can only think of Merlin Pete, and I’m not sure if he would sell existing parts or not. Maybe you can also have a look at Spitfire Spares website, http://spitfirespares.co.uk/home.html I see there are some V-drive related parts on his Powerplant pages, although they look rough. One fairly early type vacuum pump as well. I’ve never bought from him, but he did reply when I was looking around for the nuts that sit at the top of the 14 cylinder hold-down studs. That’s all I can think of other than US suppliers.
Got any pictures of the project? I’m always interested in seeing these things progress.
Cheers, Tom Kay, Canada.
Tom KayHi thedawnpatrol;
Not sure how much this would cost, or how much you’d be willing to pay. There are a few resources in the USA if you’d like some contact info. Are you restoring a Merlin to run? Always curious.
Tom.
Tom KayThedawnpatrol;
I hate seeing a guy go unanswered, so here are some contacts. No guarantee at all, but I would try Mike Barrow first, since he sold me my crankcase and is a proven fair trader in my opinion. Also, 51 factory is just scorching loaded with shipping containers of parts. Good luck!
Tom.
Mike Barrow (California) 408 637 9034
has various parts, cyl banks, heads, cams etc.
OR
Air Sparrow Merlin Services
90 Skylane Drive Hangar 4, Hollister, CA 95023 USA
Contact: Mike Barrow – 831-902-5978 phone
[email]sparrow@hughes.net[/email]
Specialties: Rolls Royce Merlin / Packard V-1650, Race Performance
Website: N/A
********************************************************
Jack Roush Aviation https://www.roushaviation.com/home
12448 Levan, Livonia MI. 48150 Main: 734-779-7006
Contact Bill Armour
Part Sales
Office: 734-779-7365
********************************************************
51 Factory
Ken McBride owner
Craig Sortwell <– brains behind operation cell # 408-710-0313
Jeff Sharp, ???
Tel: 408-779-4163, 408-683-2531
Fax: 408-683-2533
13545 Sycamore Avenue
San Martin, CA 95046
GIANT inventory of Merlin parts
***************************************************************
Jack Hovey 209 274 4422 California
fax209 274 4442
Hovey Machine
17220 Lambert Rd, Ione, CA 95640 USA
Contact: Jack Hovey – 209-274-4422 phone
Specialties: Rolls Royce Merlin / Packard V-1650, Race Performance
********************************************************
Vintage Aircraft V-12’s
Mike Nixon (661) 822-3112
Jose Flores decides about parts sales
[email]jose@vintagev12s.com[/email]
Vintage V12s, Inc.
1582 Goodrick Drive, #1
Tehachapi, California 93561
Tom KayTonyT;
I had a look at your Flickr page with the Mk XIX Spitfire. Nice pictures. Very clean, or is that just the aircraft ?? And hangar ! I couldn’t find a drop of oil anywhere.
You don’t happen to have any high-res Merlin pictures do you, especially a carburetor for a 2-stage Merlin? That’s likely my next reverse engineer and print item. I do have some pics, but always searching for more.
Thank you, Tom Kay.
Tom KayAfterCooler Box Printed, Awaiting Gluing
Well Sportsfans, it’s taken a while, but I finally have all the printed parts for the aftercooler box. They printed reasonably well, but it will take some prodding, twisting, pushing and heavy clamping to align all the parts while the epoxy cures. Funny thing about the printer, it can slightly alter the Z axis scale on different builds, which makes fitting these parts together more challenging. But I’ll get there.
You can even see the name “Acme” on the bottom of the box, which would make Wile E. Coyote proud.
What you see here is about 20 parts. This does not include the header plate on the port side, or the header tank, which are in the post just above.
I’ve uploaded 8 new pics to the Flickr site, but I’ll show a couple here.
Tom.
Tom KayHi Minimans;
I typically thread with a coarse tap, then screw studs right into the holes. I just print holes that I consider pilot holes (size is not super-critical), then tap without any actually pilot drilling. Some of my colleagues use helicoil or brass inserts, so either works. Fine threads tend to rip out more easily. Being plastic, it’s a little too easy to damage threads, so easy does it on the nut tightening.
I almost have the full aftercooler box printed, although the pieces need a bit of tweaking to fit together for gluing. I’ll try to post some pics soon.
Tom.
Tom Kaythedawnpatrol;
The first tool is used for pulling the complete cylinder bank and head out of the 6 large crankcase holes. You need 2 such tools as you detach the banks.
The second tool, I’m not sure, but I think it’s for lifting the head off of the cylinder skirt. Merlin Pete will hopefully confirm or correct me on any of this.
Cheers, Tom.
Tom KayI think this looks tremendous. Way better than the Buchon. I’m quite surprised that this was achievable. Are all of the cowlings stock?
Tom.
Tom KayTime for an Update
Here’s a newly printed set of parts. You Merlin guys will recognize the Aftercooler Header Plate and Tank. I’ll just add one picture here, but there are more at this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/130143587@N02/albums
Look under “Tom’s Merlin Parts.” I also added a bunch of close-in pics to the “Vintage Wings Gatineau Canada” album.
Cheers, Tom.
Tom KayHello Jim;
I am not sure if the piston is Rolls-Royce or Packard, or if anyone can tell the difference, but here are a few possible sources of parts;
1. Merlin Pete, who frequents this forum. Haven’t heard from him in a while, but his Flickr website is being updated.
2. Mike barrow, (Air Sparrow Company). His contact info: Air Sparrow 90 Skylane Dr., #4, Hollister, CA 95020, (831)-902-5978 email to: [email]sparrow@hughes.net[/email]
3. Vintage Wings Gatineau, Quebec Canada 819 669 9603 Paul Tremblay ext 227 [email]paultremblay@vintagewings.ca[/email]
4. Jack Hovey 209 274 4422 California. It’s been 2+ years since I talked to Jack, but he should have lots of parts kicking around.
Please let me know if any of these work out for you. Tom.
Tom KayPowerandPassion;
Here are a few pics of rolling Merlin stands that I’ve found. I don’t know any of the rebuilders, but you can see how the crankcase mounting feet attach to the frame. Wish I had one.
Tom.
Tom KayScotavia;
Most companies seem to charge about $25 per cubic inch of melted nylon material. I just checked, and there are 466 cubic inches in my full cylinder head. So that would mean roughly $11650 Canadian funds, and that scares even me! I strongly suspect this would be much higher in the UK, because everything seems to be a lot more costly overseas. If you were building in aluminum, not nylon, it would be much higher.
My organization doesn’t charge its research clients using this method. We use a combination of my labour hours to load the machine, and facility (unmanned) hours while the machine is chugging away, to arrive at the amount we charge. And again, I simply use volumes left over in the machine, once I have all the project parts loaded. It’s a way of getting at least some use out of unused powder, rather than choking fish with it in our rivers.
Tom.
Tom KayA Few More Pics of the Head Parts
Just a few pictures of the 12 separate cylinder head parts. I’ve tried to capture a closeup of the “step” joint, or tongue and groove joint that allows parts to be epoxied together with real strength. The joints will need to be strong, as the head weighs 20 or so pounds. I’ve done my first glue joint and I’ll see how it looks in the morning.
Filling tiny cracks and sanding each surface to make it look like one solid piece will take time, but overall the joints worked out, despite a bit of part warping during the 3D printing. Shouldn’t look too bad, especially once all the steel studs are screwed in.
Cheers, Tom.
Tom KayZRX61, Pictures speak a thousand words, so if you can show me what you mean, that would be great. Although I think I get it. By hanging the cylinder head and block on the inside edge, by a strap, the whole thing just happens to hang at about 30 degrees rolled outward?? I have done something like this, but it still is a case of “walking” the assembly off the long hold down studs, typically achieved by hammer taps at the front and back of the head as I hoist it up off the long studs. I really think it’d be easier if I were lifting purely vertically, as Anon mentioned.
I broke a stud off the front coolant outlet face doing this once. I think the assembly swung a bit then rested on one of the studs. DOH ! Now I have to dig the little broken stud piece out of the cylinder head.
Tom.
Sign In
