dark light

Tom Kay

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 123 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Merlin Engine Assembly Stand #806879
    Tom Kay
    Participant

    PowerandPassion

    You probably know this, but there is a different type of stand that is used for Merlins, and probably other engines. This is a frame that pivots around the center at each end, and the crankcase mounting feet bolt to the frame. It’s simpler because you don’t have to build the rings that roll around on a track or set of bearings. I wish I had either type, since it would make rolling my Merlin crankcase 30 degrees left or right much easier, which would then make hoisting the cylinder blocks straight up much easier. Hoisting upward on an angle is a problem, I’ve found.

    I assume you’re likely familiar with this type, but let me know if pictures would help.

    Tom.

    in reply to: Merlin Valves. #811285
    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hi Jim;

    Merlin Pete is the best contact for anything Merlin. He’s on this forum. Also, Ebay routinely has Merlin valves, although be a bit careful, since some WW II valves are wrongly listed, and not actually from a Merlin.

    If you want new, then maybe Roush Aviation, near Detroit. https://www.roushaviation.com/

    Or Mike Barrow in Holister California, Air Sparrow 90 Skylane Dr., #4, Hollister, CA 95020, (831)-902-5978, email [email]sparrow@hughes.net[/email]

    Hope this helps. Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hi Trak-Tor and Stuart;

    Yes, it is kind of like Lego, very expensive Lego. I didn’t do a cost estimate on any of these parts. I justified building all parts by telling my management that if there was leftover room in any Selective Laser Sintering build, which we use to make research project parts, I’d add parts for myself, or for other guys in my shop. Lots of skeletons and automobile cell phone brackets for everyone.

    To answer your question, I would honestly bet that these plastic parts would be as expensive as real Merlin parts today, or close to it. Especially large parts if I had to send these to a print bureau. The valve parts would be considerably cheaper than real valves and spring sets, just based on their small size. Real springs are stupidly expensive (Jack Roush Aviation).

    That’s a nebulous answer, but really all I have at the moment. Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Replica Merlin Head Parts 3D Printed. Awaiting final touches….

    Hello Group;

    Sept 27 was my last post, so the months really tick by. That’s how long it has taken to print 12 parts of the left Merlin head. And a few valve sets.

    The head is around 42 inches long, so no chance of printing it in one shot. At best, if I owned the printer, it would be 3 large parts. Doing it in 12 parts made it easier to add parts of the head into other project builds, when there was spare room. Fitting in a few valves and springs, here and there, is easy.

    I have a lot of work to do to complete this head. I’ll meticulously clean each tongue-and-groove glue joint, and then glue all the parts. I’ll have to create some alignment jig to make sure all the parts are nice and straight as the glue cures. Then I’ll do some “bondo” work at each joint to conceal each crevice that is visible, so that it looks like it was made in 1 piece.

    I’ll post a few more pics of the individual 12 pieces, for those who are interested, and some decent closeups. Here is the address to my Flickr site;

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/130143587@N02/albums/with/72157650467086187

    More later, Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Darryl, Sabrejet, both of you have been quite helpful, so no more self-doubt ! I wouldn’t have known about any of the links, or archives that you have pointed out.

    Thanks a bunch. Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    SabreJet, Tony (or is it Darryl?), you guys are awesome. Thanks for this early digging. It appears that some of the details that you have found are lining up reasonably well with my father’s recollections. He mentioned that the appendicitis came first, he thinks 1915 or early 1916. He told me that the Manchester Regiment troops were literally formed into ranks on the dock when he became incapacitated enough that they had to take him away to the hospital. Your service number, 125931 also aligns with what my dad wrote to me yesterday, so you’ve got the right TC Kay.

    Thanks again, Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Sabrejet;

    I replied once, and hit the submit button, but it disappeared into the ether. If my first reply happens to show up, it looked a lot like the following;

    Thanks for the contacts, ideas, and as I see in your second post, doing what appears to be some digging on your own. So it was that easy to at least find records of him and at least part of his service record? Any mention of his illness, or what ship he was to board?

    Thanks, Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hi Brian;

    Thanks for the reply, and the link to that website. My Grandfather’s name was same as mine, Thomas C. Kay, except that my “C” is for Charles, his was for “Clampitt” after his mother’s maiden name. Thomas Clampitt Kay.

    (I added a second t to his middle name, as corrected by my dad)

    in reply to: GRP Merlin Engine ??? #840557
    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hmmm;

    I’d like to see that full size Merlin resin model too, if you can recall the website. I’ve seen a few smaller models, presumably some kind of plastic, but not full sized.

    Thanks, Tom Kay.

    in reply to: Merlin XX wanted #845850
    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hello Lysanderlover;

    I suspect that he won’t have an exact MkXX, but I am pretty sure that Mike Barrow of Hollister California has a crankcase, non-serviceable, sitting in his shop. I bought one from him a couple years ago and had it shipped to Ottawa. He builds a good reliable crate. Mike can be reached at;

    Air Sparrow Merlin Services
    90 Skylane Drive Hangar 4, Hollister, CA 95023 USA
    Contact: Mike Barrow – 831-902-5978 phone

    The crankcase I had in mind has seen its center main bearing spun, so some damage has been done to that area. If he has sold this one, there’s a good chance he has others. If you do opt for any crankcase, make sure you negotiate that he leave as many steel studs in the case as you’ll need. Those tend to get removed.

    Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hi Trumper;

    The density of the laser-sintered nylon plastic is the same as water, so yes, a lot lighter than aluminum or steel. Still, when you have a thick-walled full part like a cylinder block, she’s pretty weighty.

    Most of the parts I have are original Merlin, so it’ll still weigh 1000 pounds or so.

    Cheers, Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    3D Scanned Merlin Parts. A look at the Process

    Hi;

    Just wanted to share a bit about the process of how some replica Merlin parts are made, at least by me. I took the 3D scanner from work and visited Vintage Wings in Gatineau Quebec last Saturday, and came away with some very usable scan data. My goal was to capture as many of the parts that I don’t have as I could, with hopes of reverse engineering them into a clean CAD model. I would then take the models, cut them into printable sized pieces, print, glue them into one part, paint them, then mount them onto my ongoing project.

    I need quite a few parts, such as the aftercooler box, valve covers, and many others. Scanning took longer than I’d hoped, so I limited my attention to those items. It’s always better to have any item to be scanned, sitting on a bench in front of you, rather than scanning it in-situ. This is because you can roll the item into several orientations to effectively scan all surfaces and capture as much near-watertight data as possible. Scanning the aftercooler box while it’s on the Merlin was useful, but not perfect, as you can see from the pictures below. The partial, sort of shredded looking box is actually a merge of 3 scans, and unfortunately I’m still missing the entire bottom surface, and most of the front. Oh well, it’s a decent start.

    The valve covers worked out better. They are flat on the bottom, and even mounted on the Merlin, stick out prominently enough that I captured the entire upper surface (almost). That way, I don’t have to guess at reconstructing much of the scan data to make it watertight and usable for reverse engineering or 3D printing. The grid-like things and the goofy bumps that are visible on the top surface of the valve cover, are both parts of the net that I had to drape over the valve cover as I scanned it. This net has a grid-like pattern of reflective targets which the scanner must see in order to acquire its scan data. There are many different scanners, but our hand held scanner relies on this 3D grid of “stepping stones” to understand what it’s seeing.

    After scanning, I can “switch off” the target dots, and just work on cleaning up the ugly, rough scan data. The 2 valve cover images are both ends of the left valve cover, and the first thing that comes to mind is, “Where the hell do I start?” The extra peripheral junk is cleaned away. Then the 2 clean pieces that I want are carefully aligned and merged into one semi-ugly scanned model. From there, it’s a case of removing bumps, fixing holes, and eventually getting to the point where it looks finished, like the green valve cover. Since it’s an stl file (called STereo Lithography) I can actually print the item right from this format, or I can choose to use a reverse engineering software to make it into a really clean, crisp model. The softwares I use to reverse engineer the stl scan data, are Geomagic, and the user-friendly SpaceClaim. Sometimes good old Rhino, although it’s not really a proper rev-eng tool. Rhino is usually good for simpler parts, where I import the 3D scan data as an actual “part” and then build shapes that mimic the scan model. I weld those parts together until I have a big, often complex assembly. That’s how I modeled the entire V-Drive, cylinder skirt and head. Only now am I starting to use proper reverse engineering software to make solid models from scan data, and it’s been incredibly helpful. The advantage of having good software is massive time savings, in preparing the scan data to become printable 3D models. The cylinder head has taken well over a year, and is not quite ready to print. Still more details to add. The valve cover, admittedly much simpler, has taken 2 days of spare time to go from hideous to almost printable. I’ll add the Rolls-Royce label, because even P-51 owners with Packard Merlins strive to find the valve covers that say “Rolls-Royce.” I would !

    So, bored with details? Have a look at the images and enjoy. Cheers from Canuckville, Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Hi QldSpitty, yes I thought you were doing some 3D printing. You offer parts, do you not? Keep up the good work !

    Creaking Door, I have considered keeping the core plugs out, then gluing them in place, just to make it look more realistic. However, you guessed it right, in that I’ll have to cut the head into 6 or 7 pieces to print, based on its size. That easily allows me to air-blast the unsintered powder out of the coolant areas in the head, although some of those nooks and crannies are pretty tough to reach, even with 100 PSI.

    Referring to the real castings, I agree that they are works of art. The tiny passages in the head must have been very tough to make, or at least the cores must have been challenging. I think sand cores were designed to partly collapse when heated, but still, it’s amazing how these parts were made. So many internal areas that could go wrong.

    Well, more soon, I hope. Tom.

    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Merlin Restoration. Some recent progress.

    Alright gents,

    I’m getting excited because I’m getting closer to 3D print time. I have the CAD model of the left cylinder head almost complete. It’s taken months to get to this point, although this is what I call spare time, not full time. It really helps that I was able to scan the right head, mirror image it and use it as a visual reference while CAD modeling the left head. There are differences between the left-right heads, but not too many.

    Some of you eagle-eyed Merlin gurus will spot some errors or things not yet complete. The biggest change to come, are a bunch of blind holes that will be printed, tapped, and then accept studs which hold the head to the cylinder skirt, or the valve cover to the head, that sort of thing. I also have to hollow out this solid model, but with modern software, that’s not too hard. I want the inside coolant passages to look like the real thing.

    So, Chevy Orange, Royal Purple, or red with black accessories? Still can’t decide.

    in reply to: Planes of Fame Buchon – almost there! #881919
    Tom Kay
    Participant

    Boy I agree. I would never have guessed, at a quick glance, that this has a Merlin in it. Infinitely better.

    Tom.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 123 total)