Hi Bolyman;
Thanks for the reply.
I have heard of the group in Australia, assuming that you mean the MK 26 Spit. I think the kit is enormously expensive, and I think you’d have to buy the PSRU and prop anyway. Again, assuming we’re talking about the same outfit. Is the engine a LOM? And they run a 2 bladed prop?
I ultimately was hoping to fit a 5 blade prop on my “Griffon” powered Spit. This is fantasy thinking, so I realize this may not be practical at all. But dropping down to a 2 blade prop seems, well, not the kind of look I was looking for.
Now I am interested in the idea of building a prop. Obviously this would take research. The approach I would take is find the best wood for the job, design a blade in CAD the best I can, and use some sort of homemade cnc machine or tracing mill to whittle out 5 blades, probably without front wear strips, since I’ve read how improperly bonded wear strips killed lots of people after flying off. Of course, the hub is another concern. I think most hubs are bonked pretty hard with the forge process to get the grain lines correct around the prop blade holes. I always wondered if machined billet of top grade aluminum would be as good.
So, you see it’s pretty easy to wander a bit, but in the end, how much do I make on my own, and how much do I buy? And I’d still need a PSRU with the Chevy V-8. I would be willing to machine out a PSRU casing, add bearings and shafts, and go flying, IF vibration were a concept that I really understood, but I don’t.
In terms of specs, I don’t have to be exactly to scale. As long as it looked good, held together and made thrust, I’m happy. But that is a tall order.
Thanks again, Tom.
Hi AVI;
I haven’t considered the Mk XVIII. I think I’m OK with the XIV, as it has a pretty massive V-Stab already.
Weight will indeed be greater with the detachable wings, but no choice here. My garage won’t house a full wing. Plus, I just want them detachable. All kinds of potential reasons why this flexibility might be needed.
The balance issue is a concern, of course. I still don’t fully understand how the 2 place Spit trainers do it, I mean with the solo flight from the front. I know there’s 130 pounds of steel in the nose, but it must just simply be a case where the CG travel is within limits whether it’s solo or dual, low fuel or full tanks. I can see how the effect of adding in a pax would be less significant on a bigger, heavier plane, but still I scratch my little head.
I work at the National Research Council’s Institute for Aerospace Research. Don’t worry folks, I don’t design critical structures! I design and machine tools, jigs, test fixtures, stuff like that, but my main bag is to be part of the composite team. Carbon fibre, fiber glass, etc. You’d think I’d be all over composite materials.
First, a lot of what I lay up, bag and bake is done in an autoclave. Pretty tough to do that on full sized spars. Even though there are out-of-autoclave materials and methods, I don’t want to go with carbon fibre or fiberglass. As you have previously pointed out with all-metal construction, you’d be building the aircraft twice, at least. You have to apply the plies of CF to a mold of some kind, vacuum bag it and bake it under resonable control. A whole new ball game, and the molds would all have to be made.
I enjoy working in the composite department, but I’m not fully sold on it’s use in aircraft, even before the very public outcry of the Boeing employee who was canned for his views on the 787. I admit that my Spitfire replica wouldn’t see the temperature extremes that a jet liner would, but I still have reservations about CF. Ever get a sliver of carbon fibre in your finger? They’re “special” and not in a good way. Can you imagine getting a sheaf of those up the kazoo in an other wise survivable belly landing?
The likely approach will be purchasing a set of plans from Terry Wilshire for an 80% Spit, doing some mods to make it a Mk XIV not a MK I, add a method for wing removal, and proceed. These are all doable things. Just do I have the time, budget and drive? Time will tell.
Cheers, Tom.
Hi Dazdaman;
When I mentioned easier, I should have added from the construction point of view. In fact, short of building another shelter, the garage is my only room large enough to build the main pieces of this replica. I would have to make the wings as separate units and bolt them on. No if ands or buttocks.
Aside from building, I still want the option. I can envision situations where I want the wings to come off for storage, trailering, whatever. So that’s how I’m proceeding. Even though I wouldn’t want to take them off often.
Here is a sketch of my current detachable wing concept. It borrows ideas from many people, so it’s not something I can take full credit for by any stretch. The colourful metal plates would also be on each end of the stub spar, a little wider so that the wing metal plates could slide inside the stub spar plates. The drawing isn’t quite to scale, but it’s the concept I’m showing.
QLD Spitty, I hadn’t even thought of this from the maintenance perspective. Good point. I wonder if it would make sense to add in shut off valves for coolant so it doesn’t have to be drained. But that adds weight doesn’t it. Some services or connections should be designed for a quick disconnect.
As always, I welcome constructive critiques, and I appreciate the thoughts so far. you guys should send me a bill or something.
Cheers, Tom.
Hi Dazdaman, Mk I and Mackerel;
First, thanks for the replies. I can see that you guys have indeed thought about the whole wing detach issue.
So in order;
Dazdaman, you;ve asked a fundamental question, “Why do I need to detach the wings at all?”
I have this nagging feeling that hangering the aircraft may, at times, be more challenging than I’d like it to be. I haven’t checked into this, although I should. If I run into problems, I’d like to have the option of storing this beast at home in the garage. Not to mention the fact that that’s where I’d build most of it. My garage is probably long enough to do the fuselage, but it won’t hold the wings done in one long piece. My plan is to create a jig and do the wings side by side, parallel progress style.
I am sure that I would be saving complication, but the reasons are strong enough for me to at least seek out the possibility of removing the wings.
Mk I:
I hate that when I type up something perfect and it disappears! Happens often enough.
I agree with you that taking off the wings would not be a snappy little task. It would take time, for sure. This is not meant to be typical, just doable in an “emergency” situation.
I really do have to check into hanger availability, but it’s so long before that’s even an issue (if ever).
Mackerel:
Building a real Spit would be killer expensive. Merlin engine, actual metal parts
built to exact scale. Not possible for me.
The balance issue is certainly a concern, and other than ballast in the nose, I don’t fully see why the two-place Spit can be soloed from the front. Unless, of course, the extra person just doesn’t make the CG travel that much rearward.
Well, thanks boys. If I lived on a hobby farm with 1000+ feet of flat land, I’d not worry about the wings being one long piece.
Cheers, Tom.
Dazdaman;
Funny you should mention that. I have increased the fuse in width and depth, mostly with the goal of squeezing in a second body.
It really is a back and forth process, because when you go too far, it looks like a cartoon airplane with a silly bubble for a canopy, but when you don’t go far enough, only underfed pygmies could fit in. So it’s all about balance I suppose, and of course, compromise.
I went through my old posts. I tended to gloss over the wood related thoughts, but now that it’s looking more like the building material of choice, I read through them more carefully. Then I had a look at the Jurca Spitfire, and others. The Tally Ho’s construction methods certainly have me intrigued. I like the way they’ve done the fuselage longerons and engine mounts, amoung many other things.
Well, thanks for chiming in. Tom.
Hi Stuart;
Good question, and I do have reasons why I want the wings detachable at the root. Mostly smallest possible storage “footprint.” It also, has to do with building it, and garage space available.
Richard, I haven’t made firm choices about wood types yet, but here’s what I’m thinking, subject to change:
fuse frames 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, (Finnish Birch?)
Spar caps and fuse longerons, laminated Sitka spruce
spar shear web plywood, thickness, number of plies, not yet known
skins for wing and fuse 2 and 3 mm plywood type??
I will draw on experience of others, if I choose to proceed with the project. I like a lot of the features that I see in Terry Wilshire and Bob Cutting’s Tally Ho project, for example. I might look into Jurca’s 75% wood spit to see what it’s like.
Thanks, Tom.
MkI;
Thanks for having a search. The washout is something that I’d want to include.
Cheers, Tom.
Hello Boys;
Ross, that’s one fascinating program you mentioned. I did the demo version, and it’s neat to first understand the NACA number system, then see how changes affect the foil shape. See, I told you you’re a tower of knowledge.
Question, what if the max camberline height is at 35% and not 30 or 40%, (a nice round number) ?
2213 at the root means the max camber location is at 20%. What would the number be if it were at 25% ? Or does the NACA system force the designer to stay within rigid increments? That would seem odd and undesigner-like.
You can see how little I know about the above, but I’ll dive into the demo and learn all I can.
Thanks again. Never saw that program before.
Additionally, I’m well under way with my fuselage wood mockup. My kids were climbing through it last night. The goal is to safely wedge 2 people into a Spit fuse that’s a 75% replica. Shrink an already tight aircraft, and add a second body. Piece of cake, but a ton of fun to work on. Will share pictures shortly, success or failure.
Cheers, Tom.
Mk 1 and DazDaMan;
Yup, Terry’s a pretty good source of info, so I wrote to him. We’ll get a chance to test your memory.
And the specs for the Isaac’s Spit seem very similar to what I thought is/was true of the real Spitfire.
I don’t know enough about the NACA series nomenclature to take a number and translate it into a wing airfoil. I had a more patient look through all of the wing rib drawings today, and a lot of the scans are distorted enough to make things tough to just scale up or scale down. I had the same challenge when going through all of the fuselage frames and unskewing them to be useful. Quite an exercise, but more critical with the wing I assume.
Thanks again, Tom.
Hi Mk1;
Thanks for all the detail. Every bit helps me gain an understanding of the wing or other structure.
The stall seems very low on your aircraft, and I’ll bet that helps a lot on landing and roll out.
How much detail about the wing is there in the MkV manual? Rib detail, or just a general photo or two?
Tom.
Thanks Gents;
And Ross, please don’t pull your hair out! You’re a tower of knowledge. I need you to have hair! (actually I have no idea of your current folicular status, as I’ve never met you).
So my desire is to follow the original Spit wing as closely as possible, but with some concessions where needed or wanted. I don’t need to design a hotrod that’s hard to land (high stall speed) and stalls too easily (characteristic of a thin wing). Some slight added gentleness is OK with me, although not a lot.
I do have thousands of Spit drawings, so I guess I could answer my own question about thickness ratios, just print out a rib and measure. Continue from root to tip with all of the ribs.
One large piece of info I need is to know where the centre of lift is, so I can calculate moments about the CG. I think Mustangs have the CL well back from the leading edge, as compared to the average flying machine, do they not? Or am I just thinking of the point at which the airflow becomes turbulent? Can’t recall.
Thanks again, Tom.
Hey D;
Thanks for digging. Sometimes when you get to the details, it’s not quite what you thought. But appreciated anyway.
Tom.
DazDaMan;
Thanks, but how about some more detail.
Who did it? Is there a kit? What scale is it? Is it all metal? Are you also talking about the Aussie Mk26? Is the 2 seater a bubble canopy like the pics I provided, or a highback with someone stuffed in the back ? Is it dual control? Etc.
Please be effusive.
Tom.
Why Not Make the Replica Spit a Two Seater?
Hello;
Bless me father, for it’s been a while since my last post…
One thing that has been bothering me about the whole concept of building a Spitfire replica, is that it’s a very solitary project. It’s a single place aircraft, and despite the expense and years of work, can ultimately be enjoyed by only one person.
I recall that one of the things I enjoyed most about flying years ago, is having someone with me. I didn’t happen often, other than instructors, but I did like the idea of sharing the experience. So a Mk IX Spit seems wrong, purely from that perspective.
I have been studying the Mustang a bit lately, and at first that seemed like a good alternative. Merlin powered, beautiful lines and certainly a significant place in history. Probably easier to make with its straighter skins, and easier to ground handle with its wider track. There seems to room for the second person in the Stewart and other Mustang replicas, although the Stewart is no longer in production, including the plans from what I have heard. However…
The Spitfire is not an easy aircraft to leave. So I have considered making the Spit a two seater, sort of like the Aussie Mk26, but definitely not like the trainer. I find the trainer two-seater to be unattractive at best. That bulbous extra canopy really detracts from the looks, in my opinion, no offense intended to Mrs. Grace and others who own them. So is there a way of making a two-seater, possibly even a dual control Spit and maintaining the general look ?
First, I’d have to give up the MkIX highback look. I prefer the highback, but I could live with a lowback, like the P-51D, with it’s teardrop canopy. So it would effectively be MkIX or MkXVI lowback.
If you’re so inclined, please have a look at the 2 pics below. The first is unaltered, and the second has the canopy stretched. It has to move forward 5 or 6 inches, and back about the same amount, maybe more. Does it look odd? Does it look terribly oversized? Not as odd as the trainer two-seater. And with a 70 % replica, the pilot’s head would be pretty close to the proportion shown in picture 2. Could we squeeze a second person behind the pilot? I’ll have to do some sketching and find out. Frame 11 would have to change at the top, so the rear seater could climb over it, but we shouldn’t need armour plating today.
Wadda ya think? After all the expense of building a Spit replica, it would be nice to share the flying experience. Observations, ideas? Is the concept feasible?
Cheers, Tom.
AVI;
Thanks for your input. I’ll respond to various points.
I have used the term “design” to describe what I am doing with the spar, but at this point it’s more like coming up with a concept. A design would involve calc’s and I’m not able to do that without help. I hear your point about the wing as a whole, but my initial focus is on the spar concept. Simply finding a way to do something close to Mitchell’s spar. A general layout of parts and shapes and how it goes together to form a spar. Then a D-cell.
I am fairly familiar with the structure of the Spitfire, although no expert. I have enough original drawings to know that this would be very hard to do. I have no intention of becoming an expert right down to the last rivet, even if that is a good idea, because it would take too long. I intend to mimic as much as I can and simplify where possible, such as sheet metal wing ribs instead of truss-type ribs, if that seems strong and workable enough. The Aussie Spit uses that approach for its ribs, as do many homebuilts.
My project, if it ever commences, will be a MkIX. Four blades, clockwise rotation from the pilot’s point of view, no Griffon bumps.
Although I may have to increase the area of the H-Stab, every effort will be made to keep the wing a scaled, proportional size. I will do an estimate at some point of total weight, and wing loading to see if this seems feasible.
The spitfire wing does have a rear spar, but it’s almost just an attach point. I have recently heard that Spits have flown without without the rear spar bolts in place (an obvious oversight) and that apart from some upper skin buckling, everything worked out fine. I would approach my scaled concept in the same way, most of the strength in the front spar and D-cell.
I think that about covers what I wanted to respond to.
Tom.