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bloodnok

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 741 total)
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  • in reply to: 109e emil instrument panel material help. #935569
    bloodnok
    Participant

    If you have your own CNC router, then it’s fine, if however you don’t, then you will be paying a heck of a lot more to get the parts cut out by router. Routers are slower than waterjet/laser cutters, then you have the additional cost of the time taken to set up & change each different cutting bit/drill. You don’t have any tooling set up costs for a waterjet or laser.

    Bob T.

    It’s a posh one so tooling can be preloaded for up to 6 tools and it changes them itself. Changing or loading up the tooling takes minutes.

    in reply to: 109e emil instrument panel material help. #936702
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Have you thought of getting them cut by waterjet ?. This method prevents any problems that might otherwise be caused by the heat of laser cutting.

    Most laser & waterjet cutting companies, charge by the hour, with a minimum charge of 1 hour. If the company you use charges say £60 per hour, & you have a single part cut, & it only takes 10 mins to cut, you still have to pay for the full hour
    (£60). It makes no difference to a company, if they cut one part or 100 parts in an hour, the price is still the same for that hour.

    Bob T.

    It doesn’t have have fancy lasers or posh water pistols, we use a good old fashioned cnc controlled router (made by AXYZ) to cut our bits in work. No distortion or anything like that. Cutting bits go down to 0.5 mm. As others have said, it usually takes a couple of attempts to get a perfect fit.

    in reply to: Coltishall consultation #944521
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Ok that’s Shipdam sorted, what about Colt?

    in reply to: Duxford Diary 2013 #948152
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Single cylinder Total ‘Go Faster’ Oil Barrel. 😀

    http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/penpusher/09%20Duxford%202013/05%20Bimble/42.jpg

    Brian

    It’s being converted to battery powered to appease the greenies…. 😀
    It’s now nice and low on emissions and noise.

    in reply to: Brawdy up for grabs? #970854
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Not a lot of use for civil aviation! Comment from a meteorological colleague of mine who was posted there – “Only place where I’ve seen 40 kt fog”!! Although some in the far north may be able to improve on that – they usually do!!!
    HTH
    Resmoroh

    Should have come to Valley, we had 50Kt fog! 😀

    in reply to: Any axis ww2 bombers to be made airworthy #973334
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Wasn’t there a Condor being restored in Germany?

    bloodnok
    Participant

    Some active airfields still have little gems hidden away.
    I used to work at Marshalls in Cambridge, and when they pulled down some 60’s offices in 2 hangar in the 90’s, there written on the wall in pencil was ‘Audax rudder cables’ and ‘Hind brake cable’ over 2 nails. Most of the signeage in that hangar is prewar (with photo’s on display to confirm).
    Whilst clearing some storage lockers we ended up slinging out a couple of old Canberra ejection seats and boxes of assorted British aircraft pipe fittings. I salvaged a ‘Valiant nosewheel axle nut’ spanner out of the skip at the same time.

    in reply to: Bristol Hercules Tool Part ID #994079
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Looks like a puller of some sort.

    in reply to: Smoking on ops #994187
    bloodnok
    Participant

    C-17s have ashtrays in them.

    British C-130’s used to have ashtrays and no smoking signs!

    in reply to: Aerobatics #396888
    bloodnok
    Participant

    No adverts for me using firefox and adblock plus, just straight into the videos.

    in reply to: Aerobatics #396903
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Here you go Moggy, something a little closer to home for you. 😉

    Whilst there are no ads, there is some music of dubious taste.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glNZ4EZHIJg

    in reply to: RAAF's low attrition rates #2248223
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Quite frankly, Australia is the greatest English speaking country in the world.. okay second compared to New Zealand.
    Its much safer, they run their military better, and when needed, they can fight hard. They also are better drinkers and better dancers.
    They are also not surrounded by a poisonous fog like in London but are plagued by dingos that eat babies

    Funny that, when a bunch of us got sent out there from the UK to help them fix their C-130’s we drank them under the table! I’ll let you have the better at dancing though. 😉

    in reply to: How to rivet #936187
    bloodnok
    Participant

    So does it drop off inside (the wing for example) ? It can’t be withdrawn because surely the lug would foul the hole. What is the fastener called ?

    It doesn’t work like that. They are temporary clamps that hold thing in place whilst you are working.
    It’s a bit hard to explain, but the end of the clamp is the diameter of the hole (different colours mean different sizes), but the shank is smaller. There is a fixed piece on the body that goes in the hole so when you pull the ‘disc’ up, the full size end of the clamp catches on the edge of the hole. You then do up the nut, and it pulls everything together.
    To remove it you just undo the nut, push the centre shank down, pull the body of the clamp out of the hole, then pull out the centre.
    It sounds very complicated, but it’s one of those things if you saw it in the flesh you’d be amazed how simple it is.
    They have various names and all achieve the same results, Skin pins, skin pegs, avdel clamps, grip pins, cleco pins.

    in reply to: How to rivet #939045
    bloodnok
    Participant

    You can get a regulator to use an air hammer, makes it a cheaper option, if your only putting in a few cheapest method if you have access and it will take practice, get a snap, put it in a vice vertically, put the rivet through the work, sit head in the snap then while someone holds the job level with the rivet, hammer the tail down, you could use a wide drift on it if needed but take it slowly.

    My advice still stands. I’ve seen it enough times, they are just not the right tool for the job.

    in reply to: How to rivet #939052
    bloodnok
    Participant

    Agree about the 3X gun. Not cheap but you can vary the output as opposed to the constant out put of an air hammer. You can get 10X guns but they’re the riveting equivalent of Dirty Harry’s gun. No use on light ally.

    This is what we used to use for ‘skinning up’ the aircraft.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chicago-Pneumatic-Rivet-Gun-3X-Hammer-Snaps-Aircraft-Tools-/200885641974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec5b7a2f6

    That’s the type I have. very good guns those.

    As has been said, do not be tempted to buy a cheap automotive air hammer, they are no good for riveting, and it’s quite likely you’ll end up doing some damage.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 741 total)