Just convert it into Zimbabwean dollars, and his balance will be about £1; problem solved.
Just convert it into Zimbabwean dollars, and his balance will be about £1; problem solved.
Difficult to see how they lost, isn’t it?
Well, I am damned sure HE knows what he is on about
I wouldn’t bank on it. 43 posts, all unintelligible, and all today; now if he was supplying corned beef, not spam, I might be interested.
Well, I am damned sure HE knows what he is on about
I wouldn’t bank on it. 43 posts, all unintelligible, and all today; now if he was supplying corned beef, not spam, I might be interested.
What makes it even more galling is that it took less than a year to get that idiot, who wrecked last year’s Boat Race, slung out, and sent home.
What makes it even more galling is that it took less than a year to get that idiot, who wrecked last year’s Boat Race, slung out, and sent home.
I always thought a legend was a foot!
Michael Foot thought he was a legend in his own lifetime.
Just follow the Bible’s (which pre-dates those judges by quite a bit) guidelines; according to it a man’s life is “Three score years and ten,” so make the sentence 70 years, and we all get some peace.
Just follow the Bible’s (which pre-dates those judges by quite a bit) guidelines; according to it a man’s life is “Three score years and ten,” so make the sentence 70 years, and we all get some peace.
As he isn’t British, nor married to a Briton, nor an EU citizen, he’ll need to apply for a visa, which will undoubtedly get “lost in the post” (aka WPB.)
As he isn’t British, nor married to a Briton, nor an EU citizen, he’ll need to apply for a visa, which will undoubtedly get “lost in the post” (aka WPB.)
There is a song, “The Flea,” usually performed by a baritone, which is a satirical piece, penned as a political comment on a particular acolyte to (I believe) a Prime Minister.
There is no need to grind off anything in the bowl, since the radium is a powder, held inside sealed (at each end) glass tubes. The tubes are “glued” to the spider with alcohol-resistant paint (the same as that in the bowl itself.) Getting the spider out of the bowl is the tricky part, since it needs a B.A. spanner (either 6 or 8, can’t remember which,) bent at right angles, and a light touch.
The jewel post is B.A. threaded and screwed into a crossbar in the bottom of the bowl; it is then held in place by a locking nut, which, preferably, should not be unscrewed.
At the top of the post is a cone, which is split, and forced apart by the action of a second nut, as it is screwed up the post; this needs to be screwed back down the post, to free the spider.
Use the angled spanner to screw it back down again, and, with a little gentle persuasion, the spider should come off the top of the jewel post.
If the correct method of using paint to attach the tubes has been utilised, it’s a simple matter to remove them by dissolving the paint with a paintbrush laden with white spirit. Of course, if they’ve been damaged (or you damage them,) all bets are off.
The grid ring is the most hazardous item, since the paint is likely to have turned to dust, and some of that will have found its way onto the bowl’s glass, giving you the chance to breathe it in before you start work on the bowl; talk to Sirs of Kent, who build, and rebuild, these compasses, and follow their advice.
Before you do anything, of course, the most sensible course would be to run a Geiger counter over them, remembering that the glass will always act as a barrier to the rays; looking at the condition of the paint in that pair, in your photo, it looks in far better condition than any 70-year-old radium paint that I’ve seen, so there might be a possibility that they’ve already been worked on, and the paint replaced by fluorescent type.
If you’re ever anywhere near High Wycombe, talk to Pandect Instrument Laboratories, who have a Geiger counter, and will run it over the instruments, if you ask nicely.:D
You don’t need to remove them, since they’re the retaining nuts for the wires; if the compass dates back to the radium paint era, you risk scraping the paint off the wires, as you withdraw them, with all the dangers that entails. If you remove the “ordinary” screws (which you appear to have done already,) and loosen the screws holding the horizontal springs (visible far right in your photos,) so that you can retract the springs, you should be able to remove the grid ring. As far as I remember, the springs have projections, which go through holes in the grid ring, and engage in a slot in the bowl proper.
Before doing that, though, remove the round-head screws, visible in the bottom of your photo, and you can remove three (I think – it’s at least 10 years since I looked at one) curved retainers, which will enable you to lift the whole bowl assembly out of the base. Before removing the grid ring, it’s a good idea to remove the curved “brake lever,” which operates a friction pad, designed to stop the grid ring rotating in flight, due to vibration, since it’s always liable to get in the way.
You’ll possibly have difficulty removing the bowl assembly, since there are some supporting cone-shaped anti-vibration springs, in the base, and there are some projecting “feet,” on the bowl, which have small spigots which slide into the top of the springs. They are often very reluctant to slide out again.