WOW

We have a formerly AGLT equipped Boulton Paul D type turret on show in the Museum….

BPA have kindly hosted my pics:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/markansell/bpa/turrets/tdsywell.html

TT

That’s a really great turret, looks great. See PM:)

Thanks

Graham,

I also run my own businesses and appreciate the amount of time it takes to get things done properly.

I would note this thread down as ‘Customer Service’ rather than ‘Marketing’.

Good luck – produce a quality product and the happy customers will sing louder than the others.

APC104

Thankyou, 🙂

spitfire spares

To be honest i dont think i can win whatever I do, the post was not meant as advertising, just trying to be honest and end any bad feeling. I always monitor the hits on the website and they havent increased,sales are 0, ill post them if anyones interested. i also said I wouldnt be mentioning the site again and I wont. To be honest you may all see some really rare stuff on ebay soon as i am seriously considering selling up. I really do appreiciate the surport posted here. Thanks for that.:confused:

Graham,

I watched with dismay at the goings on just before Christmas and I must say it takes a lot of heart to forgive, you have obviously made a strong commitment to supplying spares in a very narrow and competitive market.

I wish you and your company all the very best for the new year.

Regards,

John.

Thankyou.:)

I live in hope

From humble beginnings a fine restoration is born!
Best of look with the Hurri Graham!:cool:

We endeavour to persevere. Thanks for the encouragement.:)

Those pics remind me I’ve got loads of tubular rivets and stainless fork ends out in t’garage.

Must sort them out and get them on ebay.

I would be interested if you want to sell them, might save some fees

thanks

WD40 will not hurt the magnesium alloy (it is purely an alloy of aluminum and magnesium and relies on the aluminum oxide protective coat helping the magnesium not to corrode). WD40 will only help free up the steel parts. My suggestions:-

Remove the brake lever (held on by the single lock nut)
Don’t hit the casting as it will possibly crack.
The brake lever will clean up nicely with scotchbrite.
Remove the brake lever catch (if it is not too corroded) by remivin the remains of the split pin.
Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the grip onto the pivot.
Lock the pivot in a vice and carefully twist the grip and it should come off.
I would suggest that you completely strip the grip and remove the button, if you use glass beads or aluminum oxide blast it should not errode the metal.
Dont blast brass as it will not shine up.
Removing the button is a bit of fun but should be ok. Dont forget to remove the lock pin though.
The steel parts can be brought up like new with Deox-C.

You will enjoy restoring the stick Graham…I always do. I did give some advice on covering the grip etc some threads ago.

Thanks for the info will get some wd at the weekend and give it a good soaking. Will post some pics of the progress.

Part numbers

The latter two would be much prefered, Jets look cool and can do some pretty awesome stuff in the air but its pistons and props all the way for me.The chutes have some other numbers which might relate to the type of cannon or possibly aircraft. If each instalation is unique they ought to have some clue in the part number. Do you know what type of cannon ie MK each aircraft used? Did hawker use a part number system like supermarine. ie 300=aircraft type next XX= system and third XX=individual part number ?
Part numbers should be an easy key to unlock part identities but the British Wartime system varies hugely. German numbers as i understand it have the aircraft type on every piece and they have a national numbering system. (not individual manufacturer) Herbert P could probably correct me on that.:confused:
I have quite a few bits which are very obviously wartime with clearly marked part numbers but i cant get near to finding who made them. Possibly the inspectors ID stamps are a better clue? I know after digging a few bits from a dump Bristol aircraft have FB preceding their part numbers.
The chutes probably carry some hispano numbers as i bet they were made by the Cannon manufacturer. They were probably inspected prior to fitting and stamped by a Hawker engineer to say they were OK.