Yes, good it did not get worse, but “going for fuel”, me wonders…
DOBRE!!
I see the Ostrava crest on the nose too.
If the barrel twist is 1-in-12 inches and the muzzle-velocity is 2750 feet-per-second then the bullet (at muzzle) will be spinning at 2750 revolutions-per-second…
…maybe ‘no where near’ 10,000 revolutions-per-second…..but of the same order.
Actually the rifling for 303 caliber seems to be 1-in-10 inches…..so about 3300 revolutions-per-second.
THIS is the kind of information I was looking for.
The latter He-111 photo shows some monstrous holes in it.
Yes, this is in relation to the Goodwin Sands Do-17, as it has some good sized *exit* holes that would be perfectly round and whole have gone through some skin before hitting this point.
Question I am chasing is, can a .303 cause a hole about the same size as a 20mm?
Image one are large holes but far not round. Odd shapes with tearing evident from high angle hit.
Image 2 the holes are huge and look round, but the angle is from behind, could it be torn? Also, what is the chance it was a cannon armed fighter? A few 12th Wing had cannon Spits, any other?
I don’t know about that, but there does seem to have been an awful lot of work of this nature in the last few years. Off the top of my head I can think of all the Skua work (recoveries from fjords and on land, from around half a dozen airframes), the two Ju88s currently under restoration at Bodo, Fw190 raised in the North, a Bf109E, and the wonderful He115 (see http://navalairhistory.com/2012/11/23/heinkel-he115-brought-into-the-sun-at-sola/ with apologies for plugging my own website).
And the 2.5x Ju-88 and He-111 that whent to Gardermoen just outside Oslo.
But that is what he said, it took a lot of red tape cutting to get the OK to do those.
Link broken.
Is Norway much more open to recoveries these days?
I was told by my Norwegian pal that all military equipment is property of Norway thus takes a circus to get an OK to raise, or raised by the military with half a circus.
Yes, JuN, LgN and others could be used in anything, so they are not specific to the aircraft. It might still be that they are parts used in a Ju87, but equally they could be used in something else as well.
I saw a very similar Ju88 in Berlin. The condition was amazing.
Bruce
That is great to know! Will have to keep eye out for that kind of markings.
This one?
http://luftfartsmuseum.no/fly/junkers-ju-88-a-4-2/
Its amazing, in last 10 years so many Ju-88’s have been recovered in respectable condition.
(sadly not case for a Do-17 ๐ )
Great “rags”!
Thanks for your work!
JuN parts are a standard part, that could be used in other aircraft. As such there are FwN parts and indeed parts from most other manufacturers that could be used in designs from other companies.
Those levers are similar to some that are found in the Me262 for example. I would not expect a part that stated JuN 87 to be from a Stuka. As you say, the part number style is wrong. I can understand the reason for the confusion however, and would suggest that this is not the usual case of a seller trying to deliberately mislead.
The yellow anodising is common to other types, but was extensively used by Junkers on nearly all the parts they made. The Ju87 and 88 were extensively anodised, down to the smallest part.
Bruce
I was thinking along the same lines.
I do not think he was deliberately misleading, but writing a description that is misleading or deceptive.
So the Ju in JuN and Fw in FwN are indeed MFG stamps, with a generic part number (versus a specific part #)?
And the question of the cylinder
The word Germany is stamped on it. Is that normal? Or should it be Deutchland? Or a city name? It occurred to me that I have never seen “Germany” marked on any WW2 parts.
And yes, when I peaked in a Ju-88 in Norway, hard to miss that very vibrant yellow inside! I am sure helped its preservation in water.
(Ju88.net > Fuselage)
I seem to remember a quote from a novice pilot just before the Battle-of-Britain; asked to fly his Spitfire out over the English Channel and ‘get the feel’ of the guns being fired he forgot to rotate the safety bezel on the firing-button and returned (having not fired a single round) thinking ‘they are very silent these guns’!
LMAO!
You must remember that aircraft in films operate to different laws of physics compared to real world aeroplanes.
The usual failure mode is for them to enter a VNE dive whilst making a noise like a Stuka, and for which the appropriate crew recovery action is for one member of each sex to jointly heave back on a control yoke as hard as possible.
Moggy
:highly_amused:
Hello ,
More pictures here ( in french ) and interestingly the possible Do17 seen bellied on the beach . Was it later destroyed ?
http://lemurdelatlantique.lebonforum.com/t1225-avion-de-la-seconde-guerre-sur-la-plage-de-berck
Zorglub
Need account to see images?
Look like Junkers parts. Can’t tell what aircraft they are from off hand. Most Junkers parts have that yellow anodising.
Agree on anodizing, but how common is that?
And it could be another Ju model.
A professional looking listing by a registered business with over 600 positive feedbacks should not raise too many alarms, unless you know different?!
Does not mean he nor the buyer know what it is until much later.
Looks like a wheel bearing
Not to me, usually they have long axles and roller bearings instead of ball.
Looking at below image mystery part looks a little too big.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]233484[/ATTACH]
Looks like top end of retractor part, or maybe not even part of gear.
The numbers “JuN 87####” does not strike me as normal ID number, I typically see #-87.###-#### style, like 8-81.123-1234
Look at his Ju-88 part, that is genuine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Junkers-88-JU-88-fighter-bomber-reconn-aircraft-part-relic-WWII-Luftwaffe-WK2-/221451076895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338f83451f
[ATTACH=CONFIG]233483[/ATTACH]
OOOOOOhhh!!1!
CASA built Bรผcker’s under license.
I know, I’m a LAE as well.
He isn’t talking about an airworthy part but a relic that is severely corroded.
Regardless of airworthy or not, you are introducing materials that promote corrosion.
Yes, it will be slower, but will not stop it.
Even Stainless Steel is not completely corrosion resistant and can promote corrosion, just to lesser extant than typical steel.
One should not shortcut preservation just as one should not correct aircraft maintenance.
There are times when accepted methods of work can be ignore to deal with an issue that cannot be fixed normally, however that usually has a follow up to insure there is no side effect.
OP said pitted, hard to say how bad the pitting is, what factors.
Maybe a dental pick is needed?
Chemical treatments would be a no go because the chemicals may not be cleaned out properly and promote more corrosion.
Scott, can you post some images, please?
Was taught same thing at QANTAS many years ago,even my scraper collection is Perspex or hardwood…
+1
you can use stainless steel brushes on aluminium. and as for acids, what do you think Aluprep is.
Instructions:
Wash throughly after use before applying alodine
Bottomline, Aluprep DISSOLVES a layer of Alu, it us used to remove oxidization and other contamination by stripping a layer off. The danger is Aluprep can go where you do not want it go, especially into fine cracks and scratches.
I do use Aluprep, but not every time.
Cleaning with ScotchBrite is just as good, and you control the process better.
The blue /green stuff won’t be Aluminium Oxide as that is colourless. It will either be copper acetate/carbonate (verdigris) or possibly organic (moss/lichen,/etc.). I saw a Land Rover yesterday with a fine growth of Lichens around all the window frames. Something like Domestos might remove that; it will certainly kill it.
2024 aluminium alloy’s composition roughly includes 4.3-4.5% copper, plenty enough to give a green/blue color (or colour as you say ๐ )