Hi again,
I apologise for my absence, but the project was paused for a long time, and by the other hand I had to keep my promise to Jay Laverty. He wanted the article for his magazine (SAM, March 2013, issue No:35).
So, the project is finished, and I tried for the best. I would like to Thank ALL of you, one by one, for your stunning help on this effort. Your support was truly remarkable and very important. Special regards to my friend, Elliott Smock. Without him, the project would never reach the end.
All the openings of the model were sealed in preparation for painting. The transparencies were masked using my own masks, carefully designed in illustrator. My Versa cam did the rest. I have chosen to represent a mk.V in Coastal command camouflage and markings, without ASW aerial antennas. I managed to get a pictured of the real one (MH-F, Z9217) to secure the accuracy of some details, such as the black colour on the legs, the code letters position and dimensions, the type of the crew door etc.
A typical, straightforward painting of the model was performed in the colours of Coastal Command for the war period. Xtracolor X005 & X025 for the topsides, as well as a mixing 2 shades of light grey and matt white for the fuselage and undersides were used. My intention was to give the stressed effect on the fuselage sides and wings under surfaces, the base colours were followed by airbrushed shades of grey and pure white. Obviously one can only get better with experience, as the white (and black also) is probably the most difficult colour to master. The roundels, code letters and serial numbers were painted with my own masks and decals (for the S/N), according to Whitley’s specifications.
A wash of oil colours over the camouflaged upper surfaces was done at this point, using black and raw umber oil colours. Exhaust stains were sprayed on the wings using a matt brown/black mixture and a very light tan colour instead of light grey as usual. The entire model was sprayed with a light coat of Alclad Matt lacquer, and was left aside to dry. With the matt varnish dried so as to be treated safely, the weathering continued with the application of the inevitable oil leaks and stains that completed the appearance of the model as an in-service machine.
Gradually, the fuel vents, landing lights, Pitot tube, gun barrels, aerial mast and aerials, engine and propellers, were placed onto the model. I made the escape door (crew entrance) on the underside of the model. By pure luck, I got a clear picture showing the inner side of the door, showing clearly the “PARACHUTE EXIT” warnings. 2 ladders were made from evergreen strips. I decided to add one more thing. A portable bomb hoist hanging under a 250lib bomb.
The model is finished. This build was a very difficult undertaking for me, more than my abilities. There were many times -when problems arise-, justifying a decision to quit. But every time that happened, I was thinking all these fellows who helped me with information and stuff in order to build an accurate Whitley in 1/48 scale. I didn’t want to disappoint them. Neither all you, who spent few minutes to read this article.
Bibliography
* Roberts, R.N. The Whitley File. Tonbridge, Kent, UK: Air-Britain (Historians), 1986.
* Wixey, Ken. Armstrong Whitworth Whitley (Warpaint Series No. 21). Denbigh East, Bletchley, UK: Hall Park Books, 1999.
* The Whitley Boys: 4 Group Bomber Operations 1939 to 1940
* Armstrong-Whitworth Aircraft since 1913
* Pilot’s notes
* Profile 153 – The Armstrong Whitworth Whitley
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank the following Gentlemen for their kind offer in helping me!
* Elliott Smock (Whitley_project). Elliott restores a Mk.V
* Johan Bloemers.(http://www.crashsiteslimburg.nl)
* Hendon Museum
* David Briggs
* IPMS MALTA
TNX a lot Blue2. I appreciate it
… The problems in my country are very serious. My modelling interest is lost, there is no time for my hobby any more. I have to take care my family. Anyway I managed to finish the Merlin and its components. The model is almost ready for the painting job. I don’t know when i’m gonna finish it. I hope to make some progress soon
Here are the materials been used for the making of. An Aires resin Merlin item, modified for the version 20. Evergreen strips, balsa wood, aluminum foil, brass tubes etc. My tools are following next.
i hope you like it.
PS. QUESTION.
What color should i paint the aluminum ladder? I’m talking about the ladder that the mechanics and RAF personnel, used for the engine maintenance. Not the wooden one.
Hi guys. Thank you once again for your kind comments. I promise you, that I will never…ever touch a twin engine bomber again.
I was ready to proceed with the making of the engine. However, I realized that something went wrong … I decided to create a Jig, so I can adjust the final weighing of construction, undercarriage, wheel wells, and engine. Then… a tragic mistake appeared front of me.
Although during the construction progress all my measurements concerning the undercarriage on the wings were correct … when I fitted both wings on the fuselage and checked the final positions (again)… I noticed that the undercarriage mounting had a deviation of 2.5 mm from the correct position. And not only that … I fell victim to the plans and should have built the wing’s beam 7 mm towards to the rear.
Not a second thought …
Pictures speak by themselves!! I re-built the wing’s section, this time according to the correct plans.
Next follows the wheel well’s structure, firewall, and engine beam, Made by using metal tubes, evergreen strips, and brass sheet. The Oil tank was made by Balsa wood. The compartment adjusted exactly on the new wing beam. The Jig helps a lot and I achieved the correct balanced for both of the engines. It looks easy but its NOT. I spent many hours to calculate the correct angles in purpose to achieve the accurate positions.
One more step will follow soon, concerning the merlin. Then painting job is about to begin.
Here you can see the corrected wing, and undercarriage structure and mounting.
That’s all for today. I hope to like it.
Alex
Hi guys…and thank you for your Kind words as always. True gentlemen.
Long time has passed since my last update. To be honest with you, I took a break by making 4 other easy models in 1/48. There is no interest for our hobby any more. The problems in Greece are huge. People see their lifes, sinking day by day, taxes on taxes, no jobs, young men are begging for a part time job, … no production. Every day we hear only one thing. New Tax has to be paid. Anyway. Lets step forward to my progress to date.
The starboard engine nacelle is attached on the new correct wing. Primered and sanded and checked for any defects. On the port wing, I will not place a combact engine nacelle like the one on the starboard wing. I will show all undercariage and power plat totally stripped.
I made the flaps and their details. Not an easy job folks…as far as you can see.
I joined the new scratbuild wings on the fuselage and the model is waiting for its primers.
Next step concerns the undercarriage system and wheels. Unfortunately Sanger, provides a bad copy of them, not accurate. I had to build a new set from brass tubes and plastic card.
Whitley’s wheels were a serious problem. I hardly managed to find smooth resin tyres with correct dimensions. I finally did. I bought Griffon’s Smooth tyres for Wellington in 1/48 (the last available piece in stock). Then I made the rims with brass and steel rings, in purpose to achieve a nice simulation of the real ones according to my data.
Next follows the power plant’s structure, where I’ m going to attach the engine body and all the other components…
I hope you like it so far. Any comments are always welcome. 🙂
I have a few questions about the materials and techniques you are using – if it’s not too difficult to form the aluminium sheet I might try it myself one day.
Can you show us the tools you use to work the aluminium sheet?
What do you score it with? Do you lay it on a rubber mat for scoring? And what do you punch the rivets with? Some kind of pounce (cog) wheel?What glue do you use to stick the aluminium sheet to the plastic?
What gauge (thickness) of sheet do you use? (Is this what RC modellers call litho plate?)
Do you anneal it (heat it) to make it more malleable (softer)? How do you get the sheet to form compound curvatures e.g at the extreme nose and tail of the Whitley? Does it ever split?When you cover both sides of the rudder (say) with aluminium does it make the trailing edge very thick? If not, how do you avoid this? At the wing tip edges where the top and bottom sheets of aluminium have to blend together how do you get a nice join? Is it just an overlap or do you use filler?
Do you use only hand tools to drill, cut and file the sheet – or are some power tools needed?
Finally, do you use magnifying glasses for the fine detail work – or do you have super eyesight? 🙂
Hi mate,
Thank you for your compliments. I appreciate that.
I don’t think that Sanger will accept that build. The only parts were used from their kit, was the fuselage halves.. Everything else are scartchbuilt.
I will try to answer to your questions.
1. I use dremmel, pantograph and a new heating tool (shown in my new update following)
2. For scoring I have made some wooden forms
3. I use epoxy glue mostly
4. I use 0,10 – 0,15 aluminum sheet
5. Yes I do use heating in order to form the sheet on curved surfaces.
6. Yes it splits, but I seal it with glue, or putty.
7. I join them with sanding and sometimes by putty
8. No, only hand jeweler’s tools
9. No, I hate glasses! I can’t work with them!!! I do not have a super eyesight.
Regards
Alex.
Hi guys. Time for a little update.
I can show you some of the process behind the scenes … In case you decide to make something from absolutely nothing; everything must start from a base to work on.
So, everything starts with the “bricks” . Balsa wood, fillers, the always required Milliput, plans, 100ria sandpaper, and sanding, sanding, and again sanding! Endless scrubbing, corrections, modifications, endless, endless … resets….
The wing of the Whitley is characterized by a “dihedral breaking” in the middle of its surface. Therefore had to be formed by 2 parts … The main part where the engine nacelles will placed on and the secondary part of the exterior wing .
We started by making the basic brick. Additions and some miliput, filler, putty, for the wingtips we built the wings …
Going further, we have started making the nacelles and undercarriage gondola. Lots of plastic sheet, stripes, and putty, and some parts of Sanger’s nacelles Vacuum, we made the accurate shape of engine’s gondola.
Taking a piece of Balsa wood, we gave the final shape of the nacelle according to the correct dimensions. Miliput was applied on and formed the body.. Much work to do while waiting to dry. Pantograph and Dremmel tools will make the curves and shapes…
To tell you the truth I was a little bored in making a second copy. I intend to present the other engine compartment and undercarriage totally stripped.
After scrubbing the boat and Priming, the gondola was perfectly curved in its correct shape.
After allowing 2 days and nights of the brick (balsa wood dressed with miliput) to dry quite well, I used Dremmel tools again to start giving the shape. Lots of sanding!!!!
No time to waist, We glued it on the undercarriage gondola, in order to make all the final touches by working on a compact piece.
We let it dry and we have started making the ailerons. 2 pieces of plastic only… sanded and formed to fit on the wings.
Merlin has acquired a new home already..!
Next step the final result.
So, after reinforcing by workbench with this “baby”, and after burning 3 of my the fingertips of my right hand … the dressmaker began to wear the costume.
Here I will say that I used to work with a stove and a lighter, but never had to “melt” the aluminum sheet in such curves … The bad point was that everything on my piece was curved. I confess that I haven’t found the “easy and safe” solution yet…
At this point; there was no need to wrap the nacelle with aluminum. The whole piece was perfectly built. I could make a resin copy.
Anyway, this is the final result.
Here we can see the beginning (Zero point) and the End. How a simple trimmed piece of balsa, with the appropriate work, can be transformed to a something good.
Thank you for your attention.
…and the most difficult part… All parts together. Unbelievable difficulty, especially on modifying my Vacuum canopy to fit on the frame made before.
Here is the end of the fuselage. Totally finished. I’m getting very tired, so I have to take a rest for a while. The second season concerns the new scratcbuilt wings, nacelles, and undercarriage.. Not so difficult as the fuselage.
Thank You for your attention. I hope you like it.
Alex
Fuselage is completed.
Hi guys
This is my next step. As far as you can the fuselage is totally completed, ready to be painted.
Let’s get things from the beginning
BOMB BAY – UNIVERSAL bomb racks.
We have started by making the 12 Universal Bomb carriers.
LOOP ANTENNA – CREW DOOR – MAIN BODY’S FUEL TANK
I painted them in black and I glued them into bomb bay’s main cells.
The bomb bays doors were not so difficult to be done.
I had to make the correct Loop Antenna in its accurate dimensions. Here you can see mine’s compared to Sanger’s one…
Next step concerns the main Crew door. I decided to make the one which falls down with the retractable ladder located on.
According to Elliott’s info, I finished the aluminum petrol tank.
TAIL WINGS
After 2 weeks of hard work, I managed to build the tail wings. I had to represent the fabric surfaces in combination with the metal parts..
FRONT AND REAR TURRETS
FN 4
This is the FN.4. At this point I have to say, that I used the Tamiya’s clear part for Lancaster’s Fn.20 turret. Unfortunately this piece, extremely limited me, so that I can work correctly to return the actual structure of Fn.4, and constantly had to create the structure trying to match the clear piece of Tamiya.,
Going further, we made the
FN 16
Here we had easier task. Everything is made from scratch plus the Vickers gun built from an old Browning and syringes. The transparent mold from my mold, was fitted like a glove.
Both towers were painted in the colors of Coastal Command and are ready to be installed at the end without being concerned with the masking of …
Ulster Aviation Society have a Fn4 on display.
http://www.ulsteraviationsociety.org/#/fn4a-turret-restoration/4544236363
Thanks Peter.
BUT..its not your fault. I’m stupid. I was meaning the Whitley’s Front turret FN.16…
So my question concerns FN16…NOT FN4.
I apologize!!! 😮
I hope my sample will help U to understand what I mean…
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