Put all pics in the same folder:
Open one, type your text / place copyright symbol on, whatever. Copey that layer. Close without saving. Now, WITHOUT closing photoshop:
open the first image you want to treat. (usually a good idea to make a duplicate folder so you don’t trash the originals)
window – actions – (click the little right arrow on the box that opens up) – new action – record – paste – layer – flatten image – (press the red circle until it goes black).
Then, file – automate – batch – choose the folder and do save and close.
Excellent!
However, it should perhaps be pointed out to avoid confusion for the less experienced Photoshop user that this will work one time only. The Action will not be usable in subsequent Photoshop sessions because it relies upon the text layer copied to the clipboard to work.
Also, it will apply the text in the same colour and in the same position on each picture, which may not be appropriate.
Mind you I am not sure what you will achieve. Most view anything on the net as fair game…………….
A good point, but if copyright is marked on an image at least it is obvious who owns the intellectual rights. This leaves no room for a “I didn’t realise” defence later, but as with all potential theft, little will stop the determined thief! Removing the text is relatively easy, by cropping or cloning, although I suppose it might possible to place the text so as to maximise the difficulty of removal.
I suspect (although I have no proof) that in fact most unauthorised use of images on the web is of a casual nature and is for further web use. Providing that posted images are less than 1000 pixels maximum dimension, the scope for getting a good print is probably limited. Assuming that 300 dpi is needed for optimum print quality, a typical 700 x 460 pixel image that I would post on this forum gives about a 6 x 4 cm print….not that large really. Yes it could be re-sampled, but I would think anyone lazy or ignorant enough to copy images for print in the first place, would hopefully not have the wit or ability to obtain or use the software?
However, the threat of potential unauthorised reproduction from posted images should not be overlooked. Does anyone here have any relevant experience how to overcome this threat, or of the success or otherwise of watermarking plug ins such as Digimarc.
Another thought…..but it seems airgage got there first. 😉
A more elegant, but advanced, way is to use an Action. Record this once and it will apply the required text to any similar image by one click, or it can be used to batch process folder of similar images.
You could go one better than this and do as I have done; record an Action to create the correct size image for posting, with the text added, from a stored master image.
If you are unsure how to do this, pm me and I will happily set out a series of workflow steps to follow.
spt
This may be not quite what you had in mind, but you can also tag an image with copyright info, amongst other things, via File>File Info. This does not show up on the image, but the copyright © appears in the title bar of the image window when the image opens in Photoshop. Not sure if it works for all image file formats though.
Otherwise the cut and paste suggestion above is good.
Personally I use the Photoshop text tool direct on the image, which is slow, but allows me to vary the colour of the text to suit the image. I find black or white text a little stark for most images.
You could also create the text as a separate file in Photoshop, to act as a template, and simply copy and paste this to each image.
Hope this is of some help.
spt
Yes 121 years old, kept very well don’t you think, god knows what computors
will be like in 2126. I cant see CD disc lasting that long can you? but i might be wrong,and using old hard ware is fine till it needs repairing, not knocking
dig for pic quality just the longevity of the finished article.
Seems I’m not the only cynic out there after all. 😀
Great shots Roger S. 🙂
Rob,thanks for the insight. I’m in total agreement with you on this.
But guess what? I’ve found a fail safe way of archiving my photographs! Yes, a method nobody remembers in this argument (conveniently).
I print them. I turn my captured imags into photographs. And there we are, they stand a good chance of lasting. I have the exact same quality of prints made from neg, slide or digital file too.
And then….. 😉
or colour paper (which is made with dyes and dyes, as we all know, can, and do, change with time.)
Explain please why none of the stock libraries want film submissions now.
Convenience, speed, ease of transfer, all to the benefit of the bottom line. They have a business to run for profit. Digital allows profit to be maximised.
The last time I read anything of value in AP was long before I learnt about photography
Does this imply you have stopped learning about photography? 😉 I quoted this well respected author as evidence to back up a point. Always good practice, as opposed to a string of assertions lacking evidence or explanation as support. 😉
This author has an opinion, which I respect, just as you and I have opinions that obviously differ, which I respect, so further semantic sniping is pointless and will not add anything of value to this debate.
My intention in starting this thread was to provoke a reasoned exchange of opinion, which seems to have fallen by the wayside in the face of a digital is best, no argument, onslaught, in which actual evidence and explanation is sometimes lacking! And yes, I am guilty as charged in provoking and contributing to the more petty aspects of the argument. I think its known as playing devils advocate!
I am drawing the line here, in the hope that there is some information of value in the above……and with a reminder of ultimately what we all have a passion for. 🙂

Thanks for the link Snapper. It appeared while I was composing this. I will follow it up.
Would be good to see more photos published on this site that include interior and cockpit shots!
Happy to oblige. I hope these meet with approval. 🙂



emulators mean you have no need whatsoever to actually keep hardware. Longevity of software or image formats simply isn’t an issue.
OK so how about this scenario? In 50 years time you find a CD with images written to it. It is the only means of recovering those images. How are you going to read it without the hardware? Or are you seriously suggesting that you will be able to software emulate a CD rom drive……..
Digital image capture is good in many ways; digital image storage has many advantages, but I cannot see evidence here of any serious and practical long term planning. Humans as a species are basically lazy…. It is all very well advocating software emulation and transferring data from medium to medium as newer types become available, but generally it will not happen.
Film is not the only way, or even the best way for all applications. However, it is the only way I can guarantee you will be able to look at a photograph in 50 years time, because the history of photography to date has demonstrated that photographs can survive long term: at least 100+ years.
I’ll say it again….processed film is the image. If it survives, all you have to do is take it out of storage and look at it. No compatibility issues; no hardware issues; no need for software emulation; no need for the hassle of transferring data from medium to medium, verifying that data periodically and inevitably losing some to corruption……And the evidence of the poor archival standard of current digital archiving media is emerging here already. 7 year old CDRs that are shot; 20+ year old tape cassettes that are failing. I have music cassettes that are younger than that, which are useless due to print through from being stored wound in one position for too long. I have 10 year old music CDs, which are produced by a different and arguably longer lasting process than home burnt CD media, that are showing signs of age, despite careful storage and handling and no heavy use.
On that evidence, I would say that the potential for survival of digital media is poorer than for film and that needs careful storage for a realistic chance of suvival.
Yes, but be fair. They did a pretty good job with the last Olympics.
I understand one should also be wary of Geeks bearing gifts!
Ah, now that actually gives me a chance to demonstrate one of the disadvantages digital actually does have – dynamic range, or lack thereof.
Now this is more the response I was hoping for in starting this thread! The opportunity to mull over the pros and cons of the two types of image capture, and for all here involved in taking aviation pictures to perhaps learn something of advantage. 🙂
Geoffrey Crawley (AP 12 February 2005) states that at this stage of digital capture’s evolution, the tones and colours possible can at least equal the film negative/positive process if not the reversal process. Elsewhere, it is generally quoted that a good DSLR sensor has a dynamic range of 5 stops; here for example. That is the same as for transparency film. A sunny real world scene might typically have a dynamic range of 7-8 stops and the maximum possible is 10 stops. Obviously, without careful exposure, something has to give and that is usually the highlights; be it with digital or transparency capture.
So digital capture has the look of negative/positive colour film with the restricted dynamic range of transparency, a good reason why it is not yet true film quality.
Blown out highlights can look worse with digital capture because of how the sensor responds to luminance; at the extremes there is a definite on or off point giving a sudden jump to pure black or white. Film’s response to luminance is by chemical reaction, which tails off gradually at each extreme. The transition to pure black or white is smoother and more perceptually acceptable.
Either way, the real problem is how to capture the dynamic range of the scene convincingly and without loosing highlight detail. This is done by appropriate exposure and post capture or scan processing. The well known rule for transparency exposure is ‘expose for the highlights’, while for digital capture it might be thought to be the same, but is in fact more usually quoted as ‘expose right’. This is fully
explained here It works for scanning too.
I would suggest that the better metallic look in my shot is because of films ability to render fine tonal distinctions more accurately than digital capture, especially transparency film, and due to careful post scan editing. I multi-pass scan to yield the equivalent of 14 bits per channel colour data and then carry out all but minor adjustments in 16 bit mode. Something similar could be achieved from a DSLR by using RAW format capture and exporting this, via Camera Raw or similar, in 16 bit mode. I also use various other well publicised techniques to boost apparent dynamic range and to mask contrast, with the aim of a more perceptually pleasing tone distribution.
Incidentally, and this is intended as a constructive observation, I notice that when your image is imported into Photoshop, there is a marked shift in contrast and saturation; both increase to the improvement (I think) of the picture. Could it be that your original was left in the Adobe RGB colour space when saved for web use? I had a similar problem, until I realised that web browsers assume an sRGB colour space and do not recognise ICC profiles. It took two years to work that one out! 😮 However, I stand to be corrected on this observation.
So my preferences are:
For convenience, ease of use, and lower cost – my little digitals
For quality – my old SLR.
Sorry I overlooked the courtesy of a reply.
MotF has already ably covered much that I might have said and I would endorse his comments. It really is an issue of cost. A DSLR would give you results that approach those of your SLR, if you like the look of digitally captured images (I do not, as you might have gathered!). If you are content with the quality pictures that your SLR gives you, that is a very good reason to stick with it. A digital compact is the equivalent of a film compact in terms of quality. It is designed for convenience and ease of use at a price, as a trade off against out and out image quality.
Less to do with the image capture and more to do with the woeful production standards of most modern magazines methinks.
Never intended to suggest anything else.
I have not come across anything reliable about CD longevity. Just anecdotal evidence. There are reports of a fungus that attacks the aluminium layer in the disc under humid conditions, but I cannot find the reference I originally read.
Kodak Ultima CD’s are reportedly good. There are references to these on Luminous Landscape. At one time Politically Correct World had a good deal on these, but do not seem to stock them now. Like many retailers, they probably go for the best purchasing deal they can get at any one time on a particular product line. My local supplier seems to be the same. Currently they have Sony CD’s, but cannot be relied upon to supply any brand consistently.
I also remember reading somewhere that in fact there are very few manufacturers of recordable CD media worldwide and that most brands are just labelling exercises. However, I would stand to be corrected on this. At one time I had a piece of software that could tell the manufacturer of a particular CD from reading data on the nominally blank disc, but I cannot place that either! 😮
Later the same evening…….
This might be a start 😮 http://www.itl.nist.gov/div895/gipwog/StabilityStudy.pdf