EXIF can be found using most photo display/processing s/w and even web browsers.
I donno what OS you are using but I believe that the newer version allow you to right click>properties>details and you can find out the key info like : ISO, aperture, shutter speed and focal length.
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Here ya go, with pictures.
Taken at f/22 and f/16, MF-infinity and auto leveled- Cntrl+Shift+L on PS CS2. This shows you the scope of the NON problem.

Tools: CopperHill Imaging 14mm SensorSwipe (for APS-C sensors), Eclipse Cleaning Solution (Original not E2, E2 is for the cameras with self-cleaning ding dong), PecPads, scotch tape, giotto blower, some good old bollywood music and a relatively clean desk.
Put camera is sensor cleaning mode and squirted a few puffs of air using Giotto to dislodge any easily removable dust bunnies. And then did one sweep using the wet cleaning method
Can you see? Looks good, but not good enough. Can you see?

Second Pass and this time I cheated, I know from experince that most of the crud is swept to the edges of the frame, so I did the usual wet cleaning and I also cleaned the edges (in a rectangular, anti-clockwise manner) with a PecPad wrapped on a QTip. Can you see? I just messed it up even more? Look at the crud? Those streaks, that crud? OMG!!!

So I wrapped another PecPad on the sensor sweep and repeated the first pass. And this is what I got. I can live with this at f/16 (coz I don’t plan to shoot below f/8 over the coming weeks)

Its really that easy. Even a mathematician, statistician or even an Oracle can do it.
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1) You want to use partial metering. There is no point using matrix coz the object in most cases is a singular and in the center of the frame (or in tight formation).
AWB has worked for me.
2) If you get trigger happy and like to use 3 fps then you will fill up 2Gb pretty fast if you shoot RAW + JPEG-S. That totally depends on your style of shooting.
3) Sure!!! Thats what you SHOULD be aspiring for. This “I will fix it in PS” is the wrong mentality to have. You need to do everything YOU can on site and then PS will assist you in enhancing or saving pics. It wont make a bad pic any better.
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Post up a pic @ f/22, MF infinity. If you have CS2 then auto level it.
Also I suggest seeing what the same spot looks like @ f/16. I don’t go smaller than f/16 in actual application, f/22 is used to benchmark the cleaning. If the spot does not show up at f/16 then you are good to go.
If the spot is at the edge of the frame then you might have to wrap some Pec Pads on a Q-tip (or buy a $40 edge wand) see if that helps.
Remember it will take you about 2-3 tries before it becomes routine.
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Perhaps the MOST comprehensive and up to date info on the Mk.III focusing issue can be had at POTN. From the last few pages that I have read about this issue (they have several threads) Firmware v1.1.1 is available and its sort of helps (some folks are happy some are not) and there is a post dated 27th September from Rob Galbraith who says that the Canon is working very hard on this issue. So it WILL be solved.
Here is the link:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=378126
If you cant wait for an APS-H body then the Mk.IIN is still the benchmark that the Mk.III get compared to and its got a blistering 8.5fps @ 8.2MP RAW.
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Don’t worry about not having a DSLR. You have started out the right way and by using the M mode you are actually learning about 90% of the stuff you need when you finally make you transition to DSLR.
When you posted these pics you resized them and scrubbed off the EXIF data, so its pretty difficult to tell you what went wrong. If you can post the EXIF data on both these pics it would help.
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…………..I can assure you that after 2500 shots, apart from the three sticky smut marks I have collected, the rest of the sensor is remarkably clean.
I do expect to clean my sensor at some stage but not not too soon.
1) 40D is still pretty new.
2) It also depends on how often you change your lens in the field and what the field conditions are. There is no other entry for dust on CMOS, except lens changes.
3) It also depends on your camera hygiene levels. I dry clean (Giotto blower) my CMOS every week in the sensor clean mode and also the focus screen. Using the dry clean method is very useful in preventing build up and eventually getting crud that simply wont budge.
Its been 5 months since I cleaned my 20D CMOS and its still pretty clean up to f/16 and I attribute it not changing lenses in the field.
Its not about how many smut marks you have collected. You can just have one, but if that ONE shows up in your FOV and the final image at the aperture you set then its pretty irritating.
Bottom line: With or without in-built sensor cleaning, its a good idea to learn and use wet cleaning (since its not rocket science) and its always a good idea to practice good camera hygiene.
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Cleaning your CMOS sensor
Ya know its very distressing to see otherwise intelligent photogs being so paranoid about cleaning their CMOS sensor.
It’s really NOT rocket science. There are enough and more validated tools and methods out there to do it safely and effectively.
Using the ultrasonic sensor is not the the-all and end-all in keeping the sensor if you guys (at least the Canon users) hang out on Photography-on-the.net* you will know that even the XTi is no great shakes when it comes to keeping dust out even with its so called cleaning system. And its illogical to expect the 40D to be any different.
Its really very simple to WET clean:
1) Practice good camera hygine. Use a giotto blower regularly to clean the sensor (this is called the dry cleaning method) this will take out most of the crud that the so called Canon Sensor cleaning system would have taken out anyway.
2) Invest in a the RIGHT sensor wand/swip for your CMOS sensor (14mm for the APS-C bodies like 20/30/40/400D)
3) Invest it the RIGHT cleaning solution. Eclipse (original) for bodies without built in sensor cleaning and Eclipse 2 for ones with the ultrasonic sensor cleaning.
4) Buy some Pec*Pads.
5) Turn you camera to f/22 and MF and set it to infinity and take a pic of a white background/screen.
6) Use Photoshop and auto level the resulting image. It will CLEARLY/DRAMATICALLY show you where all the crud is. And even if you live under the delusion that the ultrasonic system works, try this for yourself to see what your so called clean sensor looks like.
7) Most sensor swipe/wands come with instructions on wrapping PecPad on them. Use 2 drops of eclipse/eclipse2 wait for 5-10 seconds to let excess evaporate (if not it will smear and you will panic…been there done that) and clean in one direction. It will seem intimidating the first time…the second time….the third time…and after that when you see such posts you too will get irritated, since you know how ridiculously easy it is to keep sensor clean.
8) The edges are tough to clean even with sensor wands, I use q-tips with PecPads wrapped around them, coz I dont want to buy a $40 edge cleaning wand. It works great.
Unless you subsitute PecPads with 200 grit sand paper or clean your camera in a saw-mill, flour mill or the beach or in the middle of London you really cant go wrong. Heck even the mathematicians and statisticians that populate this forum could do it.
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*something I had harped about when I started posting on the AFM Photog section and some Oracle actually had the audiocity (its not a typo) to tell me that you don’t need to goto POTN as AFM has enough folks with experience to talk about all things about photography.
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Also you were shooting wide open (f/6.3) at 300mm. Most consumer grade lenses (heck even some professional lenses) are not sharp wide open. You might try stopping down to f/8 (at ISO 400 you am guessing you will get slower 1/400, which would be plenty fast for this shot)
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If you think that 3 FPS is too slow, you might be right! Check this baby out [click].
I’ll believe it when I see it!!
LOL thanks for this link. I was having another spirited debate on another forum (I seem to have lot of those) and this link really helps me with my point.
Thank!!!
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So you’re claiming you ‘need’ more than 3fps to get good shots? Again, it seems we disagree! Paul
Good…at least we are back to where we started. Whether (or what) you agree with is irrelevant to me.
Greater the fps the greater the probability in getting the exact frame you want and in many cases: a frame thats better than you expected. That is why they make cameras with 10fps and thats is why D3 is huffing and puffing about 9fps (even though its 9fps JPEG in DX (not FX) mode)
I am sure there are great shots that were/are/will be taken with a 3fps body but there will be more shots to be had in the same instance on a 5/8/10fps body.
Off course I speak from experience I don’t use acoustic theories to justify photography. I’ve seen what a 3fps body got when we stood side by side shooting the same event (Point Mugu Airshow). They were good pics, but the 5fps was simply better.
Those in denial will just have to live with it, those who are curious will have to empirically test it. Being the oracle forum I dont expect much of the latter.
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thanks, i’ve a nikon D80,and the slow autofocus of the nikkor doesnt sound all that appealing.
D80 is a 3fps body. You could try the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8VR and add a 1.4x TC to it (donno anything about Nikon TC but the Canon one does allow AF and IS to work) and you will get 98-280mm at f/5.6. But 3fps is not that great, I have seen what 3fps can do (or rather wont do)
Or better yet……….switch to canon. You wont ever find yourself in such a pickle.:diablo:
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which one is better to choose for photographing moving aircraft,on a recent trip to heathrow i had terrible trouble with some sections of the aircraft being slightly out of focus,now i was shooting through glass but would say the nikkor VR lens help reduce this due to the VR technology?,secondly the sigma 70-200 is a constant aperture lens,which i think given the same focal length would deliver slightly better results,but the limited zoom on this lens compared to the nikkor buts me off,any opinions?
1) I donno what Nikon body you have but its one of those 3 fps bodies you are not going to get too many keepers.
2) You dont really need to shoot at f/2.8 even f/5.6 or f/8 would do well depending on the subject (and you also get a deeper DOF and this means all of your a/c will be in focus, if focus is achieved).
3) 80-400mm gives you a great focal length for airshows and f/4.5 to 5.6 is more than enough.
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No no…you misunderstood me.I meant that previously there had been some sightings of MKIs in maritime role..although I dont think pictures exist atleast not for publuic viewing.
Even the maritime Jags belong to the IAF and not the IN.
There are pics of orange flight suited MKI.
Also the Harriers routinely trains against the No.9 Jag IM and “others”. So its shouldn’t be surprising to see that they actually know what they are doing.
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Oh yeah…mea culpa. If efiste2 has a EF 80-200mm f/2.8L then its a great lens to start with and a 1.4x TC will help out.
As noted before, both Nikon and Canon used in-lens stabilization (VR and IS), which is touted as being more precise than in-body/sensor thats used by Pentax/Sony/Samsung. Canon has argued that stabilization needed is a function of the focal length and you just cant wiggle the sensor around to make up for stability.
Now the “expense” of such lens and its utility can only be gauged by actually using these lenses. For me they are worth their weight in gold.
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