Looks like it was coded by an amateur. Home pages should be simple and easy to navigate and the new JP Home page is neither.
It is a guddle, too complex and is enough to intimidate the first time viewer.
Is looks to me as if you could be using your camera in Program mode.
There is no reason why you should want to use a high ISO 400+ in daylight. No reason why you should want to use 1/1000 on a static shot.
Basically the higher the ISO the faster your shutter will be able to operate. The higher the ISO the noisier your photo is going to be. The faster the shutter goes the more open your lens will go and you will loose depth of field and hence more of your photo will not be in focus. On a bright sunny use 100 or 200 ISO.
Aim to use an aperture of around f8 and work your speed out from there maybe even go onto Av mode at f8
Disney swish bomb
Have a look at this from You Tube on the Disney Bonb
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3IgDYs9MSk
So that’s where the Student went to. I’m sorry to hear of the accident.
I remember it at Glasgow Airport in the care of Captain Mc.Intosh.
Does Ryanair issue gas masks or does one have to purchase them from the flight attendants?
Well done, your pictures are worthy of Troy Paiva and Lost America http://www.lostamerica.com/
There was another bomber scrapping ground on the Black Isle to the north of Inverness, possibly a satellite of the Kinloss MU.
Also Balado Bridge, No Whitley’s were broken up there, I did hear of a story of Barracudas, fresh from the factory, having their engines removed and then lined up and a bulldozer driven over them to break them up.
Some basic camera theory.
You may have heard of a “stop” in photography, ISO changes in stops, each stop is double (or half) the previous, eg. 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 ISO
In just the same way each shutter speed is a stop and they double (or half in the same way eg. 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000. The same goes for apertures.
If you have a light meter setting of say ISO 100, 1/125 then going up to ISO 200 will give you an extra stop and go up to 1/250 by changing the ISO you have increased the shutter speed and may have been able to get the subject that bit more crisply focused.
There is not that much difference in camera noise at 200 (some Nikons have 200 as its lowest ISO setting) and slightly worse at 400 ISO so it is worth experimenting, you have nothing to loose and everything to learn.
The wreckage was taken to Scone and from what I can gather it is a write off.
That’s jogged my memory, I’ve sent Stevo a PM.
Thanks
I believe it is Whiterashes. Insch may be too small for it.
First time that I have seen the Lanc since it left Strathallan some 20 years ago… and to think of the hours my friends and I spend patiently scraping off the layers of paint and it ended up like that. Sad. At least some of it was preserved.
I watched a flight of four F15s fly down form the north over Perth at 1347 hrs. Interesting sight and despite the height very noisy.
Using a single AF point and spot metering will concentrate the exposure on the centre section exposing the aircraft and not the background/sky.
There is the facility to view which AF points were selected in Canon’s Zoombrowser program.
ISO 1000 is roughly three stops over ISO 100, so that would give you something like 1/250 at f8, which should have been good enough. (An IS lens will give another two stops on top of that.)
Not forgetting that the extreme ends of a lens may not be the best as far as image quality goes.
“i am aware that this can also be done in photoshop”
The image that comes straight from the camera is inherently un-sharp. You can tweak the sharpness setting once when shooting JPEGs and any time you want when shooting in RAW mode but leave the sharpening to the very last stage of your work flow.
The shooting conditions definitely do not help although your 40D is supposed to be good at 400 ISO that gives you a two stop advantage over 100 ISO.
How about trying spot metering in Tv mode?