Jammed Accelerator Pedal – Bad Advice?

The most sensible advice, get down the Toyota Dealers, prices will never be this good again.

Moggy

I suppose the safest advice- ‘looking for a new car? Keep walking past the Toyota dealership’ :rolleyes:

First, and only ‘post’…..I think it has something to do with “Watch The Wolfman Online Free”!
I should stress that you don’t need to allow the speed to build-up; full accelerator at 40mph will do…

…and then brake gently.

Did that years ago in a Pug 205. I think we all do it to see what happens. It steered to the left because the brakes were totally ship with a T. Then it stalled. But I did slow down before stall.

Present 7 series may have to go. The purity and beauty of 4.4 litres is astounding. But I expected to get 21 mpg, I do so on long runs but short hops is most of my driving now, and 11 mpg is getting expensive. 90 litre tank is £100.80 to fill and the last tankful got me 242 miles. I knew all this at the time of buying, but I was expecting about 18-21 mpg which IMO was worth the luxury and affordable.

God I’m glad I drive an ancient relic- No power-anything to worry about going FUBAR, just good old-fashioned arm- and leg-power and a proper accelerator cable!:)

glad to hear it!!!

God I’m glad I drive an ancient relic- No power-anything to worry about going FUBAR, just good old-fashioned arm- and leg-power and a proper accelerator cable!:)

I understand there is a sensor built into the offending toyota accelerator pedal mechanism. Why?

As I said in an earlier post the ‘fly-by-wire’ accelerators of modern cars do have advantages, not least to fuel consumption (and hence the environment :diablo:). When you ‘put your foot down’ actually you don’t…

…you actually make a request for maximum acceleration to the engine management computer and where it is safe to do so this will be allowed (at an optimal ‘throttle setting)’…..of course with modern cars there are sensors to judge traction dynamics and it could be that…

…computer says no! :p

…things have now progressed (or not) which has the car owner faced with taking the car to a garage for repair…

I would tend to agree with much of that…

…when I first tried to replace a blown brake-light on my current car the handbook said take it to a dealership…..at £135 per hour! 😡

toyota

Not too long ago vehicles were much more straightforwardly designed, ie no sensors placed here there and everywhere to fail at will,and engines which were easily worked on without having to resort to a computer anylyzer for sourcing faults,all at a price of course,i understand there is a sensor built into the offending toyota accelerator pedal mechanism Why?accelorators were usually linkage operated,graduating to cables (which are not good as they tend to seize up, lack of lubrication etc)my point is ,things have now progressed (or not) which has the car owner faced with taking the car to a garage for repair as non of its systems can be looked at without specialist equipment, as ive already stated ,this toyota fault is to my mind self generated by over complication of a simple operation.

I think OS is publicising the capabilities of his car there.

Slow old thing OS, time to trade it in for something quicker :p

Moggy

First, and only ‘post’…..I think it has something to do with “Watch The Wolfman Online Free”!

BTW, accelerator hard down in my car is 149mph. I aint doin that for nobody!

I should stress that you don’t need to allow the speed to build-up; full accelerator at 40mph will do…

…and then brake gently.

Housefull. Why have you re-posted Creaking door post in full?

BTW, accelerator hard down in my car is 149mph. I aint doin that for nobody!

Did you actually read the ‘opinion’?

The ‘opinion’ was in three parts (note part one) and unless you are doing 100mph or are going round a hairpin bend the average drive will cope without power-assisted steering or servo-assisted brakes.

Have you actually tried applying your brakes gently with the accelerator pedal pressed hard down in gear, clutch out?

See what happens.

Wasn’t there a similar thing a couple of years ago about 40 ton trucks galloping off along the Motorway with the pedal stuck on the floor due to an Electronic speed restrictor coming in at 56 MPH , the last time I heard about it the Police were getting ready to shoot out the tyres as it was going to crash off the end of England near Dover ,

Of course, and it is possible to tow an automatic with the driving wheels on the ground without damaging the transmission, within certain speed and distance limits, and without any other preventative measures…

…but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you know exactly what you are doing.

You’ll regret any cost or inconvenience you may have saved by towing if you have to pay to overhaul or replace your transmission!

Actually there is. On most automatic gearboxes an internal oil-pump is driven when the crankshaft is turning and this supplied oil to cool and lubricate the internals of the box. With the engine switched-off the oil-pump doesn’t supply this oil and if the wheels drive the gearbox the internals still rotate, even in neutral (as with any gearbox) and damage will soon occur. This is why you should never tow an automatic.

…with the driving wheels on the floor.

Thanks BTW.

Thanks for that. I stand corrected 🙂

Moggy

With the drive in ‘N’ there is nothing happening that can have any detrimental effect on the gearbox.

Actually there is. On most automatic gearboxes an internal oil-pump is driven when the crankshaft is turning and this supplied oil to cool and lubricate the internals of the box. With the engine switched-off the oil-pump doesn’t supply this oil and if the wheels drive the gearbox the internals still rotate, even in neutral (as with any gearbox) and damage will soon occur. This is why you should never tow an automatic.

I can’t test how my 7 will react if the lump is turned to off as it’s an auto, and coasting in an auto can wreck GB.

I find this hard to follow.

With the drive in ‘N’ there is nothing happening that can have any detrimental effect on the gearbox.

Moggy

I had a Volvo 240 once which I had to drive for a while with no power steering after the belt had disintegrated. It was a heavy pig to steer, but in no way could it be described as uncontrollable.
I am not aware of the exact legal requirements, but I cannot imagine that a car that was truly undriveable with non-functioning power steering would pass any type test of roadworthiness. Much the same would apply to servo-assisted brakes: without the servo, the brakes may feel hard and wooden, but they work.
Having said all that, a driver who suddenly discovered that the steering had suddenly become much heavier, or that the brakes suddenly needed a hefty stamp in order to work, may well panic and convince themselves that the car has become undriveable.
Moggy is surely right, in that an inexperienced driver needs to be aware of the way in which a car’s handling can change in the event of a power steering or brake servo failure.

I can’t test how my 7 will react if the lump is turned to off as it’s an auto, and coasting in an auto can wreck GB. I phoned my pal with the same 5 I had, he said it was stoppable (Once) but not steerable in terms of control. He got it to roadside but on a M/way with possibly summat in the way he would not be able to control enough.

We really do have to allow for idiots these days, don’t we? And that was 20 years ago and it’s worse now. “Warning: Food gets hot when heated.” (

And, with that, I think I have another contender for “The things that really annoy you” thread! 😀