Anything at all relating to the cockpit area of a B-26K.
Unfortunately due to export permits etc required for getting stuff shipped across the pond, i doubt i’ll be getting anything bigger than what will fit in an airmail envelope.
Is there a budget in place?
😀 Very Good! I never thought for one moment that Haynes would have produced a maintenance book on the Tiger.
If it’s anything as bad as their auto manuals it has the potential to get you killed. They really are bloody dire.
I remember my grandfather having the trains set.
Aviation link: He was the bloke who delivered the fuel for Whittles contraption at Martlesham Heath in WWII. Also used to deliver to the US bases around Ipswich back in the day.
Nifty bit of kit – what did it start life as?
It’s a genuine Hamiliton Standard prop sling 🙂
Comes with different adaptors for different size domes. Remove dome (oil pisses everywhere), screw that thing in, tilt back of the forklift & the prop just slides off.:cool:
& there’s a pin that locks it in either upright or flat postion. Pull the pin out to disengage & you can tilt the prop 90deg so easily my 11yo kid can do it. Perfect balance. You can see the pin poking out the bottom on the left side in the 2nd pic..
There’s just enough play built in so you can mount a P51 prop either with it level on jacks or sat with the tail wheel on the ground.
Scary thought to have that so close to you. Makes you wonder what other things have slipped through down the years. The live bomb on Scamptons gate springs to mind.
The live 6in naval shell that a Tesco’s in Pompey used as a doorstop for years is another…
Old aircraft break down just sitting in a hangar doing nothing, they need to be taken out & exercised.
I know for a fact that you can’t leave something with an R2800 or even a R1340 (ferinstance) sat for 6 weeks & expect to be able to climb in, fire it up & disappear into the wild blue…. because I’m the bloke who has to fix em.
Merlins are a bit more forgiving tho…
Timely question that i’d like some answers also please. The Invader is covered in pockets of corrosion small, large & huge and the ally’ is delaminating.
The underside is especially bad having been sat outdoors in water & vegetation for 20+ years. Blasting it isn’t an option due to the size, what else can i do ?
.
I’m fairly familiar with A26’s, what parts are we looking at there? At least one looks like the spar…
ZRX61 this will help you. just do not use stripper on Mag as it will turn your nice Magnesium into a 60 year old field find. As above use Celeneous Acid,
I was just curious if it was still available in the UK is all. Here in LA we just drop the parts off at the shop & go back the next day to pick them up all sorted 🙂 Altho it’s been a while since we needed any done.
If you want to turn Magnesium into cookie dough give it to someone who does anodizing 😉
& just a heads up: Filler over etch prime is a no-no. The acid prevents the mud from kicking off so somewhere down the road it parts company with whatever you stuck it to.
the books will tell you NEVER EVER user phosphoric solutions on Magnesium based parts. Well you can take that with a pinch of salt. We treat Mag parts often with phosphoric based methods. So long as you thoroughly wash off the solution afterward, there really is no problem at all. blasting won’t always remove the corrosion in deeply pitted areas, magnesium parts being a prime example, and chemical is then the only way to get at it.
Does anyone in the UK still offer Dow7/Dow9 coating for Mag?
So what did you end up doing?
…this one?
http://www.jetphotos.net/viewphoto.php?id=6254888&nseq=2
Yup, the Tigercat lives in the hangar behind it, along with a DC2, DC3 & an Albatross
A woman at VNY uses a Caravelle as her office…
How do you know where you’ve sprayed it?
Sounds like what we call “metal prep” which is basically phosphoric acid diluted enough so it doesn’t turn the air yellow & dissolve your eyelids. Spray it on & it etchs the surface with a slight rainbowy/yellow tint.
You can see where it is because the metal reacts. I’ve got some steel car parts I used it on 5 years ago that I haven’t got around to painting yet & there’s no sign of corrosion.. however, I live in the Mojave Desert which is drier than a popcorn fart. I even have some steel engine mounts that I bead blasted 12 years ago that haven’t gone rusty yet.:p
I suggest you read some of the early posts again, I believe garnet was mentioned, that’s definately grit. 😉
Missed the reference to Alf, he was fairly coarse. 🙂
You’ll have to forgive me, but I shall have to bow to your obviously great experience in boat anchors and getting your supplies from pet shops, I speak from experience of decorroding aircraft structures on an almost daily basis in job I’ve been doing for quite a few years.
Actually we get out supplies from McMaster Carr in 5 gallon buckets or 50lb bags. The pet shop comment was aimed at people who only need enough to do a few parts, not 50lb at a time.
I also speak from a couple of decades of dealing with warbirds on a daily basis, including one of the Wildcats that came out of Lake Michigan. Current list covers an F7F, 3 Staggerwings, a Stearman, a few T28’s, about 8 Mustangs, 2 DC3s, a DC2 & a halfdozen T6/Harvards… It’s how I make my living.
& my only experience with boat anchors came during my 4 yr apprenticeship with Jaguar :diablo:
a coat of clear etch prime (like laquer) will protect it,
Clear etch prime?
Cellulose laquer (what people often just call *laquer*) certainly doesn’t etch so what product is clear & etchs?
For etch primer we use Dupont VariPrime (aka Yellow Death)
I realise there is quite a difference between UK & US paint/prime specs etc… & I tend to forget there is quite a difference between what people have to work with in the way of equipment in the UK, when it’s not uncommon in the US for people to have enough stuff to just about rebuild a Lanc in their garage at home 🙁