You could try that, although fixing alloy to fibre glass is hard to do really neatly. In the original set up theres a slightly complicated steel assy that sits under the stubs and is bolted to the engine, that then fixes to the top and side cowlings; obviously if you go down that route, you are going to get heat transference, if you don’t you have to design something else to hang the cowlings on that doesnt touch the engine.
R.e the stubs you could make up a “manifold” ,i.e something like a long box section, onto which all of the exhaust ports are bolted, you could then put your custom made stubs on it but space them all forward so that they exit the cowlings in the right place.
Its amazing how many challenges you come across building something like this. I like the manifold idea THANKS if i create a water space in the manifold, like a double skin I could circulate water around the manifold, take a feed off the outlets on the head then back into the return system. This would make the stubbs stick farther out in turn keeping the exhaust gas further away from the cowlings.This ought to keep everything cool enough to retain the existing cowlings. I am going to have to make mounts for the cowlings, they were originally one piece and held themselves together. I am going off the big tank idea in the tail, might try two or three car rads linked up with some big electric fans. There is plenty of room in the rear as long as we can get the heat out of the fusilarg, maybe an extractor mounted behind the rads would be better? if i can raise the air pressure in there the hot air ought to be forced out through the gaps in the tail and the tail leg. 🙂
How about this for a quick sketch, yes i know its all out of scale wrong number of stubbs ect, its a fag packet design, do you think it would work?
Sign In
