Andy, I removed my post, as subtle as it was, so as to revive this discussion; other than the one you have mentioned (and obviously TB382) do you know of any others, there was a photo (I think posted by Mark V) a while ago of the forward section of a MK V looked ’70’s maybe ’80’s.
Am I right in thinking it is a MK26 80% ?
Yes, actually quite well done (just thought I’d use some classic reserved English understatement, to offset the exuberance from the colonies)
Ha thats funny, bet he wouldn’t offer to help at an aerojumble, “can i give you a lift with that Merlin bank you have just sliced your fingers open on trying to get it out of your boot ” no one ever offered me a hand with all my wreckage 🙂
Thats because I was sat in the carpark, too tight to pay the early admission charge….
It wasn’t the position of the wavy line that was important; it was that the transition between colours should be as clean a line as possible, with no rough over, or under, spray, since that roughness induced drag.
The instructions said “approximately” to the drawn pattern, and overlaid the drawings with 1’0″ squares to help with the design, but not to be followed slavishly. It was felt that a small amount of rough spray could be tolerated, hence the 1″ allowance between colours (and a whopping 2″ for the demarcation between upper and lower colours) when freehand painting was inevitable. The only precise measurements were at edges of main items, for instance the green, on the trailing edge of the starboard wing, started 24″ inboard of the aileron, and spread out for 31.25″ onto said aileron. On the port wing the measurements were 50″ and 42.75″.
Edgar
That sounds like a job for someone at Boscombe down, paint A/C strictly to Supermarine drg 9999.9, flight test, note top speed, return, paint said A/C freestyle i.e not exactly to drg 9999.9, flight test, note top speed, return; if any difference between before and after,repaint A/C slightly beyond limits set in drg 9999.9, but not as radically different as before, flight test, note top speed, land, return to office to find the war finished last year….
Is there not a difference between stencil mats, and spray mats?, I can see the logic in using a mat to mark out the various edges, but not to spray up to, these were fighting machines, surely an inch here and there wouldn’t have mattered (unlike now).
The joke of it all, was when you tried to price your stall items, more in line with with the prices on ebay, people would either literally laugh in your face or throw it down and storm off, sad but true, yet the higher ebay prices still kept being paid ! It was also a shame the few at Shoreham that used to try and avoid paying to get in, sneaking into the marquee etc
I think you’ll find that the said individuals were all ” trade”, and knew the organiser personally, (or at least thats what they told me) me on the other hand, I know no one, and paid full price, and even sat in the car till 9.30 (or what ever time it was) to be allowed into the marquee….
“Clear etch prime?
Cellulose laquer (what people often just call *laquer*) certainly doesn’t etch so what product is clear & etchs?”not a cellulose laquer. cellulose is frowned upon in the UK now, its nasty stuff. A pigmentless acid etch primer. You can get it at any car paint specialists in the UK. It’s used to provide a base for such vehicles as bare aluminium panel land Rovers etc. It’s simply a metal etch primer with no pigment in it. ever seen a bare aluminium Audi A8 or a6 is it? the aluminium panels are etched with clear, then covered over with acrylic laquer layers, to bring the shine back. its clever stuff.
How do you know where you’ve sprayed it?
The is the other point that aerojumble sellers go round the stalls of other aerojumblers to pick up cheap bargains to sell on their stalls at a mark up so maybe the fact that people sell stuff on Ebay is just part of the buying and selling process as well.
Quite a large amount goes out of the country, which is in my opinion why prices are so high, it’s a world market.
I’ve sold to AUS, Canada, US, most of the EU, Hong Kong, Thailand and Peckham; try getting a sign writer to put that on the side of your 3 wheeled van….
Doing a little more research found merlin pete = peter grieve his web site is v good he even goes to museums to help them to get going a static merlin! what a guy.
Lots of pics and found some others last night also thanks to the guy who mentioned e bay some there too.
Ah yes saint Peter of the Merlin, he may be able to help you with manuals, but there aren’t too many torque settings, as they like to do things with a dial gauge, measuring the stretch of the bolt; and a useful section in one, on repairing your Merlin from bullet wounds!
And of course most A/C wont fit into a blasting cabinet…..
Surely if the corrosion started out on the surface and ends up being covered then it is now deeper? Tony’s only offering advice – no need to be so hawkish Stuart.
We are all “only offering advice”, Elliot; I do apologise if it comes over as hawkish (whatever that maybe, most probably a medical term…)
I’d also like to point out that my opening remarks, were to the detriment of painters (in general) and not TonyT.
I doubt theres a DVD of one being stripped, as I don’t think the running time is long enough; maybe a boxed set….
I seem to remember a thread about this.
Having read through the document thoughtfully provided by TonyT, (circa 1984), it says initially that blasting is the best method of removing corrosion, reducing the time per fastener from hours to minutes, but that the Americans had discovered that using a course abrasive, “peening over” of the metal could occur, trapping corrosion underneath, this was avoided by using softer compounds in the blasting process,(although extending the time taken per fastener); it at no time states that corrosion can be driven deeper into the metal, by this process.