Peter, I am approved by the admin to upload as large 1600 pixels for any photos. You cannot upload at larger than 1024 pixels unless you’re approved (if you want to be approved, you’ll find it on the add photos page. I’m sure you’ll be allowed). I’ve already asked for the first one of AP-BAT to be pulled from the queue, I’ll try my luck with the second one.
I just wasn’t sure if either of the Air China would be rejected because there’s 2 shots of the same reg, at the same place and almost same time.
RobAnt, the shots are just URL’s linking to where they are in the screening queue at Jetphotos.net. I’m not trying to host them.
A quick warning about the 300D it IS a fantastic camera and takes brilliant pictures but be warned i have had problems with mine focusing on fast moving aircraft it cant do it and trying to do it manually takes too long.
Example: while at duxford recently i had a chance to take some shots of the P-51C while it was flying i took nearly 100 shots and got 3 usable ones and one of them was slightly out of focus. i am using a brand new 70-300mm USM lens and the camera just could not cope the only way i could get a picture was when the plane was either entering a turn or was banking.
I work for a large camera company and got some advice from a professional and he said that the 300D and the 350D suffer sometimes with too much information too handle and go into a sort of camera panic where there are too many variables to process so be warned.
curlyboy
Sounds like your F number could have been too small. Things such as out-of-focus shots aren’t often much to do with the camera, but the lense. With your lense the best aperture range tends to be F8-11. The higher the F number, the easier it tends to become to get a fully focused shot. Below F8 will give you a nice high shutter speed, but with these lenses makes it difficult to get a fully focused shot.
Thanks for all the replies people, I’m still deciding!
Can anyone offer any ideas about the new Sigma 18-200 DC?
Seems like it’d be an absolutely perfect focal range for what I’m doing. Just trying to find some good prices for it at the moment is the problem, doesn’t seem that many places are selling it yet.
Ahhh I think I’ve very finally sorted it! After using everyone’s advice and changing things around it looks like it’s finally doing what I want it to. Thanks for the advice 🙂
I’m reading the image size from the box when I go to ‘Image Size’ to re-size the shot. I didn’t realise originally, I started editing some shots but then realised that after every crop, the width was still 3456 pixels (and the height always remains at 2304 pixels).
My guess is that you have the ‘sizes & rulers’ wrong in preferences, if you set that to pixels & put 1200 & 800 @ 72 in the top bar, it ‘should’ do what you want (I hope)
Al
Just tried, unfortunately not 🙁 Although in the ‘Units and Rulers’ preferences section it was set to points rather than pixels, and so that may provide a clue to part of the problem.
So let’s get this straight
You’ve got a 3 in the width box and a 2 in the height box
You use the cropping tool to mask by eye
Once you have it to your satisfaction you click the tick
… and the image comes out stretched?
Moggy
I tried putting a 3 in the width box and a 2 in the height box, with 72 in the resolution, and when I crop the photo came out tiny. So then I tried changing the proportions and resolutions etc, and got to the point I am at now.
Currently it says 121.92cm in the width box and 81.28cm in the height box with a resolution of 28.346. When using this, I crop my 3456 pixel wide photos and they still remain at 3456 pixels wide.
Are you entering the dimensions for the crop into the two fill-in boxes on the status bar?
If it’s stretching the image it sounds as if you’ve unconstrained the proportions in your Image > Image Size menu selection
Moggy
Well in the past I cropped pretty much by eye, whereas now I like to crop all photos so that they re-size to 1200×800 (3:2). The proportions are still contrained in the image size menu :confused:
If I was to crop in that way, would you be able to tell me exactly what dimensions should be enetered in the dimension boxes at the top, and anything else that would have to be set? Many thanks.
Canon 10-22mm?
Used it on one or two shots on my 300D while at an airshow with a friend. He took an impressive with it of the Red Arrows Heart, fitted it with ample room to spare. I think it’s around the £500, not super expensive but not cheap I suppose either.
Looks good, especially for the ultra wide 10mm. But I’m looking at something for static ground shots of aircraft, and I’m gonna need some different angles. 22mm is probably not enough.
Philo, any chance you could post us the EXIF data on those shots? (in Photoshop – File > File Info and select ‘EXIF’ from the drop down list.)
Had a quick go, I think this is the best I could do.
Used the Dodge Tool on the effected areas, and gave the rest of the photo a quick go to help it blend in. Then saturated it to put back some of the colour that the dodge tool took out, and contrasted slightly to make it look a little more natural.
With a bit more time to spare you could probably use this method much more precisely.
What do people think about a Canon 70-200L with a 2x convertor? I think that this is likely to reduce the AF speed quite a lot, and would probably make it not worth having an L glass lense at all?
There are plenty of other options before taking the big step upto the 100-400L.
A lense which most people agree to be a very good one to get started on is the Canon 75-300 USM III lense, which comes at a very reasonable price at the moment (around £220).
Or one step above that I’d say is the Sigma 50-500EX. Around three times the price of the Canon just mentioned (around £600), but still much less expensive than the 100-400. It gives you an exceptionally good reach, although I think there are complaints of it being soft at the very far end. Still, up to 400mm it tends to work fine (although not so good as an L glass lense in bad weather).
If you wanted L glass without paying as much as the 100-400, you could try the Canon 70-200L. Put a 1.4x extender on that and you have nearly 300mm of zoom, and a quality lense to go with it. That would set you back in the region of £500-600.
Plymouth-Guernsey-Alderney-Guernsey-Plymouth in a BA Dash-8 Q300.
Hehe I know it’s not a realistic flight plan, but I wanted some quiet airports for maximum frame rates, a few short hops, and a bit of a challenge (operating the Dash-8 in/out of Alderney is always fun 😀 ). I also have proper scenery for all the listed airports, which makes it much better.