Hello RedHillWings:
I’m by no means an expert, but what follows is an amalgam of information I’ve picked up from some a couple of gents who are quite knowledgeable.
First, some conjecture. While this is the first time I’ve heard the C-1 autopilot disengage switch referred to in the context of an “8th Air Force Autopilot Switch Mod”, it would not surprise me if this was accurate. Fact: The 1942 and early 1943 American daylight bombing raids inflicted heavy losses. Curt LeMay (Commanding General – 8th Air Force) personally led the in-flight test and evaluation efforts to develop defensive flight formation tactics for dealing with the highly competent German fighter threat. Among the innovations LeMay and his team developed was the “defensive box” formation. As you (especially the pilots) can imagine, flying large numbers of heavy aircraft in close formation churns up the air mightily. Add some flak to the mix and the task of maintaining formation flight was quite a strain.
I don’t know exactly when they were introduced (I suspect the back half of 1943), but at some point both B-17s and B-24s started to be equipped with “Formation Sticks” for both the pilot and co-pilot. They were introduced to encourage autopilot use amongst the bombers in box formations. The C-1 was good on its own, but formation flying requires constant jockeying to maintain position. So the lead pilot of “box” would use the C-1 autopilot without sticks. Those those formating on him would select either gyro-assisted or servo boosted (direct) control via a panel switch.
A Formation Stick basically consisted of Guardian Electric B5 grip mounted to the top of a box that, when engaged, provided pitch and roll control, but with modified gains to reduce pilot workload. They were installed outboard of pilot’s and copilot’s seats, so they’re normally out of the field of view for most cockpit photos. On a formation stick the ‘trigger’ was the mike button for aircraft communication. The push-button on top was the ‘take control’ button. When the Formation Sticks were energized, either pilot could press their top button to assume control. In the event both were pressed simultaneously, the control relays were set up so that control defaulted to the left (aircraft commander’s) seat.
C-1 Autopilot disconnect buttons were mounted on both wheels. If the pilot needed to take urgent evasive action, it saved seconds over reaching across and disengaging the autopilot via the control panel. When the system was switched on, one touch of either disengage button (they were normally closed and wired in series) interrupted the current to an electrical latch, instantly disengaging the servos. The main switch on the autopilot control panel then needed to be cycled to re-set the latch.
That’s probably more than you wanted to know…but what the heck. Later on in the war, B-29s used the same setup. And I’ve seen cockpit photos of a B-36 Peacemaker with the C-1 autopilot disengage switches. No idea if they also had Formation sticks.
Swifter
There can’t be many people with the P38 pair!
Thanks Ian and Mike. I know of three other collectors with “the pair”. The obvious one being Nick Louis at the APHS website.
Yadda Yadda
Hello All:
Not too much activity on the yokes thread in recent weeks. No doubt, at least in part, due to the Christmas season and all that goes with it. So, I just thought I would put in a brief note here wishing all of you the best for the holiday season and that we (the planet) have a great 2015 !
Attached are a couple of photos of an early P-38 yoke I recently acquired. Fabricating original looking switches will be the next challenge.
Nick
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Glad you picked up that T39/Sabreliner yoke Ian. That same seller has had several of these same yokes for sale over the last 4-5 months. All nice and with the center covers and all for the co-pilot’s position…and reasonably priced. Thought about bidding one myself just to get the center cover….
When I did mine I had the bare metal grip in slightly worse condition than the one you have. I fettled it to a state that I was happy with, remove corrosion etc. I rubbed it all down and spraye the metal grip black. Then did the twining and body putty. Whenn the whole lot has set. I masked off the gun button I sprayed the grip again with the same black spray paint. I handle it from time to time but not excessively and so far it has stood up very well.
JDH
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Nick
Hello Banana Splits:
In post 791 you state in part:
The best way to replicate the plastic covering is by using three core twine and removing one of the cores, then once bound on the grip apply a liberal coating of car body filler to fill in the gaps and even it out a bit.
In your posting though, you don’t complete the description of what needs to be done. What I’m wondering is, once you have applied the twine and pushed in some body putty, what do you then cover it all with? Or do you just paint? I agree electrical tape wouldn’t do; the adhesive is inadequate for almost anything.
JDH1976, the same question goes to you.
Thank you both.
I would be interested to know the difference between the Convair 240 and 340 yokes.
The 340 and later Convair variants had an extended housing to accomodate an autopilot release switch the 240 didn’t have (in its yoke).
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Nick, I have a couple of questions if I may with reference to your latest comments. I have 2 P3 Orion yokes both with different front heads, I note your comments that there was a later version of yoke designed implying that an earlier type yoke may have been in existence. Could you please explain the differences between both?
Darrell:
If you have 2 different P3 yokes you’ve likely got the P3A and P3C variants. The photos below are of my P3C variant and Nick Louis’s P3A. I don’t have any photos of the P3A. I suspect switchology is much the same. The obvious difference is in the housing for the sensor assemly.
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That Sabreliner yoke is very well buttoned for a civil craft, or is a military one? Lovely job anyway. Your mantelpiece looks a treat in the background too Nick!
I know what you mean Ian. It’s a nicely sculpted design, very reminiscent of the Convair 880/990 that I know Fly.Buy is very fond of. It was designed soon after the Convair yoke. Both were produced by Adams Rite. From an ergonomic standpoint the yoke has a great feel to it. It fills the palms very nicely. The Sabreliner is a contemporary of the Lockheed Jetstar and Learjet. And it was indeed produced for the military (both Navy and USAF) as the T-39. Based on the data plate on my yoke it was installed in a civilian aircraft.
The fireplace mantle holds my overflow. I need to build more shelves. I now have 73 unique yokes in my collection. What you see on the mantle are the following: Convair F102, Lockheed Jetstar, Lockheed P3 Orion (late), Convair 340, Convair 240 (Yes, there is a major difference between the two) Beech “Starship” (actually a very rare yoke because Beech bought back nearly the entire fleet of Starships 6-7 years ago and destroyed them all!), Boeing KC-97, Lockheed C-130, Beech D-18, Grumman Albatross, Grumman Widgeon, Aero Commander 500, Aero Commander 560, Aero Commander 680, Jet Commander.
Nick
Does anyone know the difference in factory markings between a Junkers and CASA manufactured wheel?
I’m afraid I don’t know my German yokes well Darrell. But here are a couple of pix from my archive. It has a different casting number than yours and no stamped markings in the wood. Beyond that I don’t know if it’s a Junkers or Casa item.
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Thanks Darrell. Are you happy with the JU52 yoke? That was a nice buy. Perhaps I should have gone higher………:dev2:
Hi Everyone:
Just thought I’d post a couple of photos of my most recent yoke acquisition/restoration, a North American Sabreliner. I tried maintain all of the original switch labelling, some of which wasn’t in good shape. So the restoration results are somewhat mixed for the yoke itself. I had encountered very few Sabreliner yokes over the years. Then, suddenly, 3 or 4 have gone through ebay over the last 6 months. The interesting thing about this one is it came with its geared control head consisting of a fairly complex set of machined gears and a casting assembly. Overall this setup added height to the yoke and changed its angle (relative to the pilot) and changed the input force required from the wheel to the ailerons since the gearing is roughly 1 to 3. Makes one wonder though, why North American took this expensive design approach when it seems less expensive (perhaps not as elegant) approaches could have been used. I’m happy though….it made for a neat display.
Nick
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Darrell:
I agree with Ian….that F13 yoke is a great find and some good research on your part too !! I sure screwed up with my guesswork on post 703..:confused:
And that’s fine. We learned something new…. In hindsight, perhaps the pinched ends on the spokes should have been a give-away to the corrugated external skin construction technique on the F13 and that is so well known on the follow-on Junkers “Tante Ju”…the ubiquitous JU-52.
Nick
Hi Tony:
The following is basically the same information I shared with Fly.Buy (Darrell) earlier this year, on what I’ve learned of the differences between the Connie and P2V-7 Neptune yokes. The main difference in the castings for the P2V-7 and Connie are in the outboard sides of both stalks into which the switch blocks mount. I refer to where the switch blocks mount as the clevis. The P2V-7 clevis (both left and right) has a squared-off or angular shape. This is readily apparent when you have both yokes and you’re viewing the clevis from the front or side. The clevis of the P2V-7 yoke is also somewhat more massive than the more svelt/rounded clevis of the Connie yoke. Additionally, the P2V-7 clevis is slightly wider than that of the Connie and the holes for mounting the switch blocks are in different locations. As a result, the switch blocks are not interchangeable between yokes.
What follows is informed conjecture: I believe that all civilian Connies were delivered with unpainted brass switch blocks. Pilot or co-pilot would have a switch block labeled “Auto Pilot Disc”. The other switch block was likely blank….but may have had a MIC switch installed too in later (say, 1049 and 1649) Connies. I cannot knowledgably speak of C69 yokes. From photos I’ve collected I believe C121 yokes likely used the same casting as used for the P2V-7, rather than the casting used for the airliners. The switch blocks were brass and painted black, one of which was usually labeled “Auto Pilot Disc”.
The following photos illustrate the differences:
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Have a fine week !!
Swifter
Evening all,
Been a while since I’ve posted here but I’m proud and happy to share my latest project with you all,
John.
Hello FMK.6John:
Beautiful job you did with the Lightning grip/column. I’ve done a fair number of such mountings…none as nice as what you have there! You mentioned a spring setup to give the brake lever some action. I did the same thing with a Lancaster wheel I restored. Since the spoke to which the brake lever attaches is hollow, was able to install and old carburator/accelerator return spring inside the spoke that acts to return the lever to where it belongs after deflection. Ahhh…the fun of it all….